Temples of Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry #121: Kalikambal Temple Chennai

காளிகாம்பாள் திருக்கோயில், சென்னை

Kalikambal

Kalikambal

Kalikambal

Kalikambal

Kalikambal

Kalikambal

Amidst the hustle and bustle of Chennai streets, there is this ancient temple sandwiched between busy business establishments. It opens onto two parallel streets, Thambu Chetty Street and Armenian Street, There are commercial buildings on both sides. It is one of the oldest temples in Chennai. It is dedicated to Goddess Kali. Originally located closer to the sea, it was moved to the current location in the 17th century when the British East India Company established a trading post and fort here. Although small in size, it remains one of the most revered and popular temples in the city of Chennai.

As a Saivite temple, the presiding deity is Lord Sivan as Kamateswarar (கமடேசுவரர்) manifested as a small lingam. However the Goddess assumes much more importance here. She is referred to as Kalikambal, Chennamman and Kottaiamman among other names. The names reflect her origins as the protecting deity of the small village called Chennakuppam that is believed to have existed here when the British decided to build a fort or Kottai there.

Legends say that the temple was visited by many sages including Agastya, It is believed that Goddess Kalikambal restored Kubera's wealth and prosperity after he worshipped here.

The temple was relocated to the current site from its location by the seashore on March 1, 1640 and reconstruction of the temple began. It was completed in 1678. It has remained an integral element of the city that grew around it since then, although the urban jungle has squeezed it and dwarfed it. It is believed the original form of Kali was a fierce looking idol and was replaced by the current serene idol by Adi Shankara. If that is true, the original temple should have existed in the 8th century. It is believed that the great Maratha emperor Shivaji visited this temple in secret on October 3, 1677. The event is remembered to this day. At that time this part of town was known as Maratha Town. Much of this history is disputed by some people as it is drawn from the temple Sthalapuranam and not corroborated by contemporary English records. The early 20th century Tamil poet and writer Subramanya Bharathiyar spent a lot of time at this temple and composed the lyrics of the famous song " Yathumagi Nindrai Kali" here. The popular Tamil devotional song rendered by T. M . Soundararajan, * Ullam Uruguthaiyaa" was written here.

The main deity of the temple faces west. The primary shrine for Goddess Kalikambal is more elaborate than the smaller shrine for Lord Sivan on her right. There are two entrances, with gopurams, one at the eastern entrance on Thambu Chetty Street and the other on Armenian Street on the west. Most people enter the temple through the eastern, Thambu Chetty Street entrance. The gopurams are modern structures. Construction of the 10 meter high 5 tier rajagopuram began in 1976 and was completed in 1983. Further renovations have occurred in 2014. Sculptures and paintings of Chatrapati Shivaji, the Tamil poet-philosopher Thiruvalluvar and Subramanya Bharathiyar are found here.

The theertham of the temple is the nearby sea, the Bay of Bengal. The sthalavirutcham is the mango tree. Many festivals are held throughout the year. The major festival is the 10 day Brahmotsavam in Vaikasi (May/June) which concludes on the auspicious day of Vaikasi Visakam, The Kinni Ther, a chariot decorated with numerous cymbals is unique to this temple. The Navrathri Festival (September/ October), the Vasantha Navarathri (March/ April) and the 10 day Margazhi Festival that concludes on Arudra Dharisanam are also major festivals.

The administration of the temple is unique in that it is administered by the Visvakarma community It has been under the control of the this community comprised of traditional carpenters, stone masons, blacksmiths, goldsmiths and bronze smiths for 500 years. 5 elected members from the community serve as trustees. Multiple attempts by the HR and CE to take over the temple have failed, as the legal framework of the HR and CE legislation excludes temples owned by specific communities.

The temple is located in the heart of Chennai city, close to Parry's Corner, Georgetown. We visited in Aug 2017 and in June 2025. We were based in Chennai.

Sources:

Dinamalar Temples Kalikambal (Tamil)

Muthiah, S. Madras Rediscovered. Chennai: East West Books, 2014, 384.

Courtesy Google Maps