Temples of Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry: The Hill of Truth - The Thirumayam Fort Complex
- Sudharshan
- Nov 8
- 3 min read
திருமயம் கோட்டை
This enigmatic hill fort has been in use as a gathering place since prehistoric times. The red ochre rock paintings on granite surfaces inside the complex attest to its antiquity. Human figures and hand prints are discernible. Unprotected and heavily vandalized in the past, they are better protected these days. They are said to be at least 7000 yrs old.
It is home to two ancient and beautiful cave temples, the Sathyagirisvarar Sivan Temple and the Sathyamurthy Perumal Vishnu temple. These two temples were carved out of an existing natural cavern during early Pandiyan and Pallava times and have been expanded into large temples in the intervening centuries.
There is a mysterious small cave cell with a rectangular entry cut into the western face of the granite hill forming the hill. Folklore says that it was hidden and some tremors from a distant earthquake dislodged the sealed entrance revealing a sivalingam on a square avudayar carved out of the rock. It is unclear when this alleged incident happened or whether it is true. Today you can climb a narrow metal stairway to reach it. There is no record of when it was built and who built it. The style is suggestive of the 6th or 7th centuries. It was likely excavated around the same time as the two cave temples mentioned above.
There are also a number of smaller shrines around the fort premises. They are for village deities like Karuppar, Hanuman, Sakthi and Ganesha. They dot the fort complex and are likely of ancient origin.
The rocky hill has served as an outpost and fortress for centuries. It was developed as a fortress in its current form by the Raja of Ramanathapuram, Vijaya Raghunatha Sethupathi Thevar or Kizhavan Sethupathi in 1687. It is about 40 acres in area. It is a ring fort with concentric walls. Originally there were seven walls and only four have survived. The fort played an important role during the Polygar wars of the late 18th and early 19th centuries. The Polygars or Paalayakkaarar were regional chieftains or governors under Vijayanagar and Nayakkan rule, who continued to rule their minor chiefdoms or paalayams after the fall of the Nayakkar. They were some of the first people to offer armed, organized resistance to the British take over of India. Many of them were captured and executed by forces of the British East India Company and became folk heroes. Oomaithurai (the Silent Lord), younger brother of the legendary Kattabomman of Panchalankurichi, took refuge here at Thirumayam Fort before eventual capture and execution in 1801. The Battle of Thirumayam is an important one in the resistance wars of the Paalayakkaarar. Thus it is an important symbol of Tamil valour. The locals often refer to it as Oomaiyan Kottai.
After the defeat of the Paalayakaarar, the British took over the fort and used it as a military outpost. A number of cannons belonging to that era are found here.
Thirumayam is also the birthplace of S. Satyamurti (1877-1943), the legendary 20th century freedom fighter and activist. He played a significant role during India's freedom struggle from British rule. He was a highly respected and influential leader of the freedom movement led by Gandhi.
The Thirumayam fort and temples are administered by the ASI, while the HR and CE exercises control over some of the temple activities. The ASI has renovated the premises in 2020 and it has done an impressive job. When we visited here in 2012, I came back with sadness and frustration that such a precious heritage site was so neglected and ruined. When we visited this time, I came back happy and content. The place is cleaner, neater and in a much better condition overall. We stopped to commend the cleaning staff on the wonderful work they were doing.
The Thirumayam Fort Complex is located about 100 km or 1.5 hours northeast of Madurai and about 72 km or 1 hour and 15 minutes south of Tiruchirapalli. It is a ticketed site of the ASI and there is a booth at the entrance to buy tickets. The tickets are not costly at all. The two cave temples are not ticketed and offer free entrance. We visited in June 2025. We were based in Kanadukathan.
Sources:
Saurabh Saxena: Thirumayam - The Land of Truth - Puratattva.in
Ria Gupta. Thirumayam Fort: The story behind the fort of the chieftains who defied the British. Condè Nast Traveller. 2022
Nacchinarkkiniyan M Four caverns of different sizes discovered at Thirumayam Hill. The Indian Express July 14, 2023
Courtesy Google Maps