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  • Temples of Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry #86: Muktheeswarar Temple, Theppakulam, Madurai

    முக்தீசுவர் திருக்கோயில், தெப்பக்குளம், மதுரை This relatively small but ancient Sivan temple is located in the city of Madurai on the western side of the beautiful Vandiyur Theppakulam. The Theppakulam is an artificial waterbody or tank built by the great king Thirumalai Nayakkar in the 17th century. It is believed that sand was dug out of this site to aid in the reconstruction of the Meenakshiamman temple. The exact age of the temple site is unknown, but the existing structures are from the Nayakkan era. The temple is also known as the Iravadhiswarar (ஐராவதீசுவரர்) temple, named after Indira's elephant Iravadham (ஐராவதம்) who legend says worshipped Lord Siva here and was relieved of a curse. This temple is one of the 5 Panchabootha Sthalams of Madurai and represents Vayu. It is also one the 4 ullaavaranam or inner-garland temples of the Madurai Meenakshi Amman temple. Expansion of the temple was restricted by its location close to the Theppakulam. The temple only has one outer prakaram and lacks a rajagopuram. The vimanam over the mandapam in the middle of the Theppakulam serves as the rajagopuram for this temple and the Mariamman temple nearby. The east-facing temple consists of the sanctum and a relatively large mandapam in front with many columns. The columns have ornate sculptures depicting scenes from the Thiruvilayadal Puranam. The idol of Eka Pada Trimurti depicting Siva, Vishnu and Brahma as a single idol and the Veenadhara Dakshinamurthy are very beautiful and special. The temple is constructed in such a fashion that the rays of the sun fall in the sanctum during the couple of weeks spanning the vernal and autumnal equinoxes in March and September. It is as if the sun is paying homage to the Lord here during those times. The temple lacks the usual Navagraha shrine seen in most temples. Nevertheless it is believed that this temple has a close relationship to the Navagrahas. The construction of the temple as it stands today is credited to Muthu Veerappa Nayakkar, brother of Thirumalai Nayakkar. We visited in June 2025. We were based in Madurai. Photography was difficult as the temple was undergoing renovation and many of the main structures were covered in scaffolding. Source: TN Temples Project Credits: Google Maps

  • Temples of Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry #83: Devi Karumariamman Temple, Thiruverkadu

    தேவி கருமாரி அம்மன்  திருக்கோயில் , திருவேற்காடு We recently featured the Vedapureeswarar Sivan Temple in Thiruverkadu which is lesser known but is the more ancient and historically significant temple in Thiruverkadu. There is another temple in Thiruverkadu, which is now a western suburb of the city of Chennai, which is by far the more well known and popular temple in this town. The area is synonymous with the Sakthi temple of Karumariamman and this temple deserves a dedicated post. People throng to this temple and many have deep faith in the power of the deity here. Although not an ancient temple, it has a lot of legend and aura around it. It started off as a small Amman temple beside an anthill and is associated with the worship of snakes. A giant anthill still exists right beside the temple and is highly venerated. Much of the structures are built in the current era. From its humble beginnings as a village shrine it has grown into a massive temple due to patronage by a large number of devotees. It is currently undergoing extensive renovation. Although the temple might not be attractive to temple lovers with a bent for history and antiquity, it is worth visiting to witness the importance the religion has for a large number of people. It showcases the vibrancy of the living religion. It is currently administered by the Hindu Religious and Charitable Endowments Department of the Government of Tamil Nadu. We visited in August 2024. We were based in Chennai. The temple is located about 20 km or an hour west of the centre of Chennai city. Credits: Google Maps

  • Temples of Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry #56: Vedapureeswarar Temple, Thiruvothur, Cheyyar

    வேதபுரீசுவரர் திருக்கோயில், திருவோத்தூர், செய்யாறு A 2 hour drive from Pondicherry and 3 hours from Chennai, is this very old temple with numerous legends around it and a very ancient history. The original temple has existed here at least since the 6th century. A brick structure during Pallava times, it was rebuilt in granite by the Cholas and added onto in later eras. Adityan I is supposed to have built the granite structure but the first inscriptions date back to his son Paranthakan I. Every major Chola king including Rajarajan and Rajendran I, have left inscriptions here. There are also inscriptions from later Pandian, Rashtrakuta, Kadava and Sambuvarayan kings. Lord Siva himself is supposed to have expounded the Vedas to the sages here. Hence the name Vedapureeswarar for the Lord here. The place is also called Thiruvethipuram for the same reason. Thiruvothur also comes from Othu (ஓது) which stands for reciting the Vedas. The Nandi here faces the opposite direction and is looking outwards towards the Rajagopuram. Usually the Nandi faces the sanctum. This is a rare exception only found in a very few temples. The explanation is that Nandi was guarding the temple while Lord Siva was explaining the meaning of the Vedas to the sages. There are other legends about the reason too. This is a Paadal Petra Sthalam and Thirugnasampanthar sang the pathikam. Thirunavukkarasar has also been here but the pathikam has never been found. In the early 7th century, the story goes that this place was mostly inhabited by people of the Jain faith. There was an old man who was looking after this temple who was a devotee of Lord Siva. He was poor and once planted a grove of palmyrah trees to make ends meet. But when the trees grew to maturity, they turned out to be male trees which did not bear any fruit. (The palmyrah palm has a male and female tree apparently and only the female tree bears fruit). The Jains made fun of the old man and his Lord. They swore that they would convert to Saivism if Lord Siva could turn the male trees into female ones. Thirugnanasampanthar is supposed to have come here on his wanderings and having heard the plight of the old man, sang the pathikam and all the male palmyrah trees became female in due course and bore fruit. பூத் தேர்ந்து ஆயன கொண்டு, நின் பொன் அடி ஏத்தாதார் இல்லை, எண்ணுங்கால் ஓத்தூர் மேய ஒளி மழுவாள் அங்கைக் கூத்தீர்! உம குணங்களே. With a tall 7 tier rajagopuram and several sub-shrines, it is a beautiful temple. Recently renovated, it looks neat and nice. It is another temple that celebrates the palmyrah tree which is the temple tree here. There is an interesting sculpture of a palmyrah tree inside the temple which is half male and half female. It is located about a 100 km southwest of Chennai and about a 100 km northwest of Pondicherry. The drive is about 3 hours from Chennai and 2 hours from Pondicherry. We visited in May 2023. We were based in Pondicherry. Credits: Google Maps

  • Temples of Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry #87: Soundararajaperumal Temple, Thadikombu, Dindigul

    சௌந்தரராஜ பெருமாள் கோயில், தாடிக்கொம்பு, திண்டுக்கல் Renowned for its fine sculptures in granite from the late Vijayanagar and Nayakkan eras, this temple is located just north of Dindigul. Dedicated to Lord Vishnu, it is a beautiful temple and very popular. Although there are some clues in inscriptions that suggest that it might have existed in some form under Pandiyan rule before the 10th century, the structure as it stands today was built during Vijayanagar times and embellished in the Nayakkan era. The village was originally called Thaalapuri due to the abundance of palmyrah trees. It later got the name Thadikombu which means the same in Telugu due to the influx of a large number of Telugu speaking people into the area during the Vijayanagar period. The temple was rebuilt in its current form by the Vijayanagar emperor Achyuta Deva Raya (1529-1542), brother and successor of the great emperor Krishna Deva Raya and his successor and regent Aliya Rama Raya (1484-1565), son-in-law of Krishna Deva Raya. This was in the mid 16th century. Most of the sculptural art is attributed to the reign of the great Nayakkan monarch, Thirumalai Nayakkar of Madurai (1623-1659). The sculptures were commissioned around 1640 in the mid 17th century. This information is from the inscriptions present at the temple. The temple has a 5 level, 90 foot high rajagopuram and is surrounded by granite walls on all four sides. It has two inner prakarams. The prakaram outside the walls is paved to facilitate the movement of the chariot or "ther" during festivals, The Lord is in a standing posture in the sanctum sanctorum. His consort Sundaravalli Thayar is housed in a separate shrine. The main structure is built on a 2 m high plinth and is thus classified as a Madakkoil (மாடக்கோயில்). The temple has a number of mandapams. The Ranga Mandapam contains beautiful sculptures depicting the ten avatharams of Lord Vishnu and are from the Vijayanagar era. The Soundarapandia Mandapam contains 14 life size sculptures in granite that are believed to be some of the best examples of Nayakkan art and craftsmanship. The workmanship is exquisite and reflect a very high level of expertise. There are also seven musical pillars in the Kalyana Mandapam similar to other southern temples of the same era. The temple is located 14 kms to the north of Dindigul in Tamil Nadu. It is about a 20 minute drive by car. It is about 80 km north or an easy 90 minute drive along NH 44 from Madurai. We visited in June 2025. We were based in Madurai. Source: Temples of Madras State; P.K Nambiar and K.C Narayana Kurup. Census of India 1961 Govt of India Archives Credits: Google Maps

  • Temples of Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry #43: Thirukalukundram Temple, Chengalpattu

    வேதகிரீசுவரர் மற்றும் பக்தவத்சலேசுவரர் திருக்கோயில் திருக்கழுக்குன்றம் Also spelled Thirukkazhukundram (the "zh" stands for the retroflex "l" in Tamil), this is actually a twin temple complex. The beautiful temple at the base of the hill is known as the Bhaktavachaleswarar Temple and the temple on the hilltop is the Vedagiriswarar Temple. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, these two temples are much venerated and have a long and celebrated history. Thirukalukundram is praised in the Thevaram and the Thiruvasagam. It is one of those temples that have the special distinction of being mentioned in the works of all four of the Naalvar, Thirugnasampanthar, Thirunavukkarasar, Sundaramoorthy Nayanar and Manickavasagar. Thus it is a Paadal Petra Sthalam and a Thiruvasaga Sthalam. Legends abound here. Until recently two Egyptian Vultures used to visit the temple on the hilltop every day at noon to be fed by the priests. Egyptian vultures are native to India despite their name. The birds that came here were vultures and not eagles as mentioned in some places. They disappeared in the late 1990s. The story goes that two ancient sages who had a spell cast on them by the Lord for their arrogance, were destined to live as vultures and prayed here for many yugas for their salvation. When they had done their penance they would be liberated. Another belief is that they would come only until good people existed in the area in this Kali Yugam. Another explanation is that the widespread use of the commonly used anti-inflammatory medication diclofenac has devastated the vulture population in India. Diclofenac which is found in the carcasses of animals the vultures consume causes kidney failure in vultures within hours. Diclofenac is used to treat cattle in veterinary medicine. Whatever the reason the birds do not come to this temple complex named after them anymore. The Bhaktavachaleswarar temple is a complete large temple at the bottom of the hill with four magnificent gopurams and theerthams. It is customary to visit it first and then climb the 562 steps to visit the Vedagiriswarar on the hilltop. The hilltop temple is seemingly precariously positioned on the summit of the hill. The hill is about 500 feet in height. The area comprising the two temples and sacred hill is a vast 265 acres. The Vedagiriswarar does not have a Nandhi at the top. The Nandhi is located at the Bhaktavachaleswarar and is gazing towards the hill. The vimanam of the Bhaktavachaleswarar temple is of the Gajaprishta or Thoonganai Maadam style Given its great antiquity and spiritual significance, it has had contributions from many dynasties and individuals from different eras. The small cave temple found close to the top on the hillside, known as Orukkal Mandapam (ஒருக்கல் மண்டபம்- single stone mandapam) is believed to have been built by the Pallava king Mahendra Varman who ruled from CE 610 to 640. It has been heavily vandalized by British soldiers who were stationed here during the colonial period. Thirukalukundram is a special temple in so many ways and is one of my favourites. It is located in Chengalpattu, 2 hours or 72 km south of Chennai. We visited in August 2017, May 2023 and August 2024. We were based in Chennai Photos updated November 2024 Credits: Google Maps

  • Temples of Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry #3: Ramanathaswamy Temple - Rameswaram

    இராமநாதசுவாமி திருக்கோயில் இராமேசுவரம் This vast temple is well known and one of the most important Shivasthalams in all of India. It is one of the 12 Jyothirlinga Sthalams and one of the four Char Dhams. It is a Paadal Petra Sthalam and has been praised in song by all three of the Moovar - Sampanthar, Naavukkarasar and Suntharar. It is revered both by Saivites and Vaishnavites and is one of the most important pilgrimage sites in India. The origins are shrouded in the mists of time. When Lord Rama returned after retrieving Sita from Lanka, he wanted to thank Lord Siva for his blessings and to seek forgiveness for killing Ravana, the great Siva Bhakthan. Hanuman went to Kailash to bring a lingam for Rama to worship but was delayed. Sita became impatient and fashioned a lingam out of sand on the Rameswaram sea shore and it solidified. When Hanuman returned with his lingam he threw a tantrum. Both lingams are in the sanctum - Ramalingam (Sita's creation) and Hanuman's Visvalingam. It is traditional to worship Hanuman's lingam first by Lord Rama's decree. It is believed that Hanuman's tail made a mark on the main lingam when he was angry and it is still there. Many dynasties have contributed to building this temple. Originally built in the 10th century by Pandian kings, it has contributions from Chola, Sri Lankan (the great king Parakramabahu), Jaffna Kings (Singai Ariyan), Vijayanagar and Nayakkan. But the greatest contributions have been by the Sethupathy kings of Ramanathapuram in the early 18th century. What we see today is the culmination of a thousand years of temple building. It is large (15 acres in area) and boasts the longest temple corridor and many gopurams. The only problem with popular temples is that thousands of people converge here from all over India and the world on a daily basis. The sites lack the infrastructure to handle these crowds which leads to congestion and a somewhat messy environment. Add to it the tight but necessary security, it makes it difficult to fully appreciate this temple. No cell phones were allowed inside the premises and I do not have enough pictures to show you. If you go - go in the late afternoon when it is less crowded. We visited in August 2019 and June 2025. We stayed in Rameswaram. Credits: Google Maps

  • Temples of Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry: Temple Groups Series

    Temples of Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry Thus far, our posts have mostly been about individual temples. These posts have a number attached to their headings. We will continue to post about temples we have visited going forward. We have interspersed these with posts with general topics that we thought would be helpful for folks to gain a better understanding of these wonderful temples. Over the next few weeks, we will post a series on Temple Groups. There is such a bewildering number of temples that most people find them overwhelming and do not have the time to visit them all, let alone learn about them. Grouping temples into special sets makes it easier to understand their relevance and importance. These groups or sets will sometimes focus on their religious or spiritual importance and others will highlight historical, artistic or architectural elements. Other posts will try and group temples in and around a certain city, town or pilgrimage site. There will be a certain degree of overlap as you can imagine. We hope you will enjoy these posts as much as you have enjoyed the ones about individual temples and general topics. Where appropriate we will incorporate these posts into one of the pages so that readers can easily navigate to them when needed. These might come in handy when you plan your own trips. Stay tuned.

  • Temples of Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry: Temple Group #1 Pancha Bhootha Sthalangal

    பஞ்ச பூத தலங்கள் There are five important and ancient Sivan temples that are collectively referred to as the Pancha Bootha Sthalams. Pancha means five and bootha stands for the elements. They each venerate Lord Siva as a manifestation of the five elements of nature: Earth, Fire, Water, Air and Ether or Sky. These are very ancient temples and all are Paadal Petra Sthalams. They have been praised by the Tamil Saivite saints in the Thevaram and thus they have existed at least since the 7th century. They are likely much older. Every dynasty that has ruled the Tamil lands has contributed immensely to these temples. They are vast temples with a large number of exquisite sculptures, inscriptions and tall and intricate gopurams. They are important pilgrimage sites for Saivite Hindus and draw large crowds during festivals and special days. Four of the temples are located in present day Tamil Nadu and one in Andhra Pradesh just across the border from Tamil Nadu The Chidambaram Nataraja Temple : Also known as the Thillai Nataraja Temple, this temple venerates the Sky or Ether . It is the holiest Sivan temple in the Tamil Thirumurai or Holy Canon of devotional texts. In many instances it is referred to simply as the Koil (temple) signifying its great importance. Here the Lord is celebrated in his formless state as emptiness instead of a lingam. The Chidambara Rahasiyam (the secret of Chidambaram) is an empty room in the sanctum sanctorum and symbolizes the belief that the Lord has no form and it is we who imagine him in various forms. Here the Lord is also venerated as Nataraja, the Lord of the Cosmic Dance. The familiar form of Lord Nataraja is consecrated here. He performs the Ananda Thandavam (the Dance of Bliss) here. The temple is quite ancient and its origins are obscure. It was present in the 6th century, but the present structures date back to the 9th century. The Chola emperors were very fond of this temple and the Nataraja here was their Kuladheivam (clan deity). At 40 acres in area, it is a large temple complex and is one of the largest in India. The Annamalaiyar Temple at Thiruvannamalai : This temple celebrates Fire. It draws large numbers of people for its spiritual significance. It has attracted ascetics in search of spiritual meaning from time immemorial. The Lord manifests as the Agnilingam here. Many legends are attributed to this site including the one about the time the Lord bade Lord Brahma and Lord Vishnu to find the top and bottom of the pillar of fire he manifested as here at this much venerated site. Built beside the holy Annamalai hill, it is again one of the oldest temples in Tamil Nadu. Contributions to its construction have been made by various dynasties over the centuries including the Cholas. The Hoysalas are credited with later construction. It has impressive, tall gopurams on all four cardinal directions. The East gopuram, at 217 feet is one of the tallest in India. At 24 acres the temple is one of the largest active temples dedicated to Lord Shiva. Every Pournami (full moon day) thousands gather here to circumambulate the holy hill in a 14 km pathway known as the Girivalam. The Jambukeswarar Temple at Thiruvanaikaval: This temple is for Water. Situated on the island of Srirangam, near the very famous Ranganathar temple, it is in Trichy or Thiruchirapalli in Tamil Nadu. Again its antiquity is difficult to ascertain. It is a very ancient temple and is believed to have existed for at least 1800 years. Legend says that the Sangam era Chola king Kochengannan built it. It is celebrated in the Thevaram and thus has been here since the early 7th century at least. The cholas and later dynasties including the Hoysalas have contributed much to this temple. The Lord here is venerated as the Appulingam. The lingam is bathed in a stream of water that never dries up. The sculptures here are well known for their lifelike perfection. Spread over 18 acres it is again a vast temple with multiple prakarams and is one of the largest Sivan temples. The Ekambareswarar Temple at Kanchipuram : Here the Earth is venerated. This ancient temple is in the heart of historic Kanchipuram. Once the capital city of the Pallava emperors, the historic city of Kanchipuram is home to many important temples. The Ekambareswarar is one the most most ancient and important temples in Kanchipuram. Legend says that Goddess Parvathi herself consecrated the lingam here made of sand near a mango tree. The lingam is known as the Prithvilingam. Only jasmine oil is used to do Abishekam here and not water to preserve the lingam and prevent erosion. The temple has been recorded to have existed as far back as the early 7th century but is likely older. It is 18 acres in area and is one of the largest Sivan temples. The mango tree here which is the Sthala virutcham is believed to be 3000 years old. The 190 feet high Rajagopuram is one of the tallest in India. The Kalahasteeswarar Temple at Srikalahasti: Here the Lord is celebrated as the Wind or Air. This ancient temple is situated on the Swarnamukhi River in Andhra Pradesh just across from the northern border of Tamil Nadu and is quite close to Chennai. Although it is now in Andhra Pradesh in modern day India, it was likely at the northern border of the traditional Tamil Country. The initial construction is believed to have started in the 5th century. Rajendra Chola I renovated the temple in the 11th century and many other Chola kings have contributed to its construction. The beautiful 120 feet rajagopuram was built by the Vijayanagara emperor Krishnadevaraya in 1512. The rajagopuram collapsed in 2010 as it was destabilized by urban expansion around it. It has been rebuilt now. The legend of Kannappa Nayanar, the tribal devotee of Lord Siva who was willing to donate his eyes to the Lord, is connected to this site. The Lord manifests here as the Vayulingam. It is considered a Rahu-Kethu Parikarasthalam. Courtesy Google Maps Access: The Chidambaram Nataraja Temple is best accessed from Pondicherry. Although there are local accommodation choices, Pondicherry offers a wider variety of hotel choices. The drive is about an hour in good traffic. As it is a large temple, temple goers should budget at least an hour or two depending on their interests. As such it is a half day trip. If you leave in the morning you can be back in Pondicherry for lunch, There is some accommodation in Thiruvannamalai but Pondicherry might also be an option. The drive is about 2 hours. So it is more of a day trip. For the Thiruvanaikaval Temple the best place to stay is Trichy or Thiruchirapalli. There are plenty of quality accommodation. The Ekambareswarar is in Kanchipuram and there are good accommodation choices in Kanchipuram itself. If traveling from Chennai the drive is around 1.5 hours in good traffic. As there are other important temples in Kanchipuram to visit, it is at least a day trip. The Srikalahasti temple can be accessed from Chennai. It is 2 hour drive and the visit will likely need a day to accomplish. As the temple can be very busy with long lines, adequate time should be alotted. You should set aside at least two hours for the temple visit itself.

  • Temples of Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry: Temple Group #2 Pancha Sabhai Sthalangal

    பஞ்ச சபை தலங்கள் These five ancient Sivan temples known as the Pancha Sabhai temples celebrate the sites where Lord Siva performed an aspect of the Cosmic Dance. In his manifestation as Lord Nataraja he performed the sacred dance at these holy sites it is believed. Pancha means five and Sabhai means hall. These are large temples and are important pilgrimage sites for Saivite Hindus. They are Paadal Petra Sthalangal and are venerated in the Thevaram Canon and thus have existed at least since the 7th century. Their origins are obscure. The many dynasties that ruled the Tamil lands have made immense contributions to these temples and their present forms are the culmination of centuries of building and rebuilding. The Chidambaram Natarajar Temple is known as the Potsabhai or Kanagasabhai or the Golden Hall. It glorifies the Cosmic Dance of Lord Nataraja as the Ananda Thandavam or the dance of bliss. Historically it has been the most important and holiest shrine for Saivite Tamil Hindus. It is also celebrated as one of the Pancha Bootha Sthalams and venerates the element sky or space. Its origins are buried in the mysteries of time and many dynasties have contributed to its construction and growth. It was a favorite temple of the Imperial Cholas. The Meenakshi Sundareswarar Temple in Madurai is known as the Velliambalam or Rajata Sabhai or the Silver hall. Here the Lord danced the Sandhya Thandavam or the Dance of the Evening Interestingly Lord Nataraja has his right leg raised here in contrast to the left as it is customary in the traditional form. Legend says that a Pandiyan king called Rajasekara Pandiyan entreated the Lord to change the leg he was standing on to give the right foot a rest. The Lord obliged him. This temple was originally built by Pandiyan kings in the ancient past and has been added onto in the millenia since by various dynasties. It was desecrated and nearly completely destroyed by Islamic rulers in the 14th century when Madurai was a Sultanate. It has been rebuilt almost completely by the Nayakkar kings in the 16th century. The Vadaranyeswarar Temple at Thiruvalangadu is called the Rathina Sabhai or Ratna Sabhai or the Hall of Jewels. This ancient temple is where the Lord is said to have danced the Kali Thandavam or Urdhva Thandavam. It was was a difficult and fiercely intense performance. Here the Lord has his left foot raised above the shoulder and almost touching the left ear lobe. Legends say that there was once a fierce competition between the Lord and the Goddess to establish who was the better dancer. Caught in the intensity of the performance the Lord lost his left earring. Without a pause he picked the earring with the toes on his left foot and put it back on. The Goddess was awed and accepted defeat. The Nellaiappar Temple in Thirunelvely is described as the Thamira Sabhai or the Copper Hall. It is an ancient Paadal Petra Sthalam in the heart of the town of Thirunelvely. Here the Lord danced his Muni Thandavam. He takes the form of Bhairava depicting one his more destructive aspects. There is a copper roofed structure within the Nellaiappar temple complex in one of its prakarams which houses a Natarajar idol and is traditionally believed to be the Copper Hall. It is a temple built by the Pandian kings and later added on to by Chola and Nayakkan rulers. It is a vast and beautiful structure with some fascinating architectural and sculptural marvels like the musical pillars. There is a small controversy about the exact location of the Thamira Sabhai with some claiming that the ancient Azhagiya Koothar Sivan temple at Chepparai, 12 km to the north of Thirunelvely is the actual Copper Hall. The Kutralanathar temple at Thirukutralam is the Chithira Sabhai or the Hall of Art. It is an ancient Pandiyan temple surrounded by hills and near a waterfall, Nestled between two hills it is uniquely shaped like a conch. Here the Lord performed the Thiripura Thandavam at the culmination of his victory over the evil forces of the Thiripuram. The Chithira Sabhai is not part of the Kurumpaleeswarar temple complex but is situated a little distance away on a hill. It is a temple where all the deities including Lord Nataraja are depicted by murals instead of sculptures. The murals are painted with herbal, natural pigments and have been recently restored using the same pigments as much as possible. It is a stunning exposition that is somewhat hidden and which many people tend to miss. Courtesy Google Maps Access: The Chidambaram Nataraja Temple is best accessed from Pondicherry. Although there are local accommodation choices, Pondicherry offers a wider variety of hotel choices. The drive is about an hour in good traffic. As it is a large temple, temple goers should budget at least an hour or two depending on their interests. As such it is a half day trip. If you leave in the morning you can be back in Pondicherry for lunch, The Madurai Meenakshi Amman Sundareswarar Temple is in the heart of Madurai. There are plenty of good accommodation choices in Madurai. The Vadaranyeswarar Temple in Thiruvalankadu can be accessed from Chennai where there is excellent accommodation It is a 2 hour drive from Chennai and will be a day trip. There are hotel choices like the GRT Regency in nearby Tiruttani and Kanchipuram which is only an hour away. The Nellaiappar temple and the Chepparai temple are in Thirunelvely which has quality accommodation. The Kutralanathar or Kurumbaleeswarar at Thirukutralam is about 1.5 hours from Thirunelvely which has good accommodation.

  • Temples of Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry: Temple Group #3 The Great Living Chola Temples

    The Great Living Chola Temples The Great Living Chola Temples are a group of 3 Chola era temples that are designated together as a UNESCO World Heritage Site due to their outstanding cultural and architectural value. The temples are the Brihadishvarar or Peruvudayar Temple or the Big Temple at Thanjavur , the Brihadishvarar Temple at Gangaikondacholapuram and the Airavatesvarar Temple at Darasuram . Together they represent an era in Tamil history when great heights were achieved in the development of temple building in the Tamil country. They are treasure houses of the impressive sculptural art of the period. All three draw thousands of devotees, temple enthusiasts and tourists every year. The Cholas ruled for four centuries beginning in the late 9th century until their eventual decline and demise in the 13th century. During that time they built a great number of granite temples throughout the Tamil country but largely centred in the Chola heartland around Thanjavur, Kumbakonam and Trichy. Picking up where the Pallavas left off, they continued to build in stone as opposed to temples of a previous era built of brick, wood and other perishable materials. Throughout the 10th century they concentrated on renovating and rebuilding in stone temples of immense religious significance. For example, the Paadal Petra Sthalangal were rebuilt in stone during that period to the extent that we do not know how the original temples looked like. Having thus honed their skills in building stone temples, they set out to build new temples of their own. These temples are symbolic of that grand effort. The Chola kings were deeply Saivite and these three temples are dedicated to Lord Siva. Jointly administered by the Archeological Survey of India or the ASI and the Hindu Religious and Charitable Endowments Department or HR and CE of the Government of Tamil Nadu, the preservation of the temples is the responsibility of the ASI. The HR and CE is in charge of the day-to-day functioning of the temples. Damaged, desecrated, abused, plundered and neglected during alien invasions over the centuries and colonial rule, today what remains of these temples is reasonably well preserved and at least some of the rituals are continued making them living legacies of Chola grandeur. Unlike some other temples which have been built over many different eras and contributed to by various dynasties, these temples for the most part were built during the reign of a single monarch. Brihadishvarar or Peruvudayar Temple or the Big Temple at Thanjavur Completed in 1010 CE, this temple was commissioned and consecrated by the great Chola emperor Rajaraja I. In a way, it was built to reflect the growing power the Chola empire and the deep devotion of the emperor towards Lord Siva. It was modelled on earlier smaller temples but built on a massive scale. To this day it remains one of the largest temple structures in India. At a height of almost 60 meters the tall vimanan is an impressive structure. It is to be noted that this is a vimanam built over the sanctum sanctorum and not a gopuram as it is often mistakenly referred to as. The main structure was built during Rajarajan's reign. A few external structures have been added in the 13th century and in the 16th century during the rule of the Nayakkar of Thanjavur. The temple is located in Thanjavur. Brihadishvarar Temple at Gangaikondacholapuram This temple was built by the son of Rajaraja I, the great Chola emperor Rajendra Chola I. Many believe that Chola power was at its peak under Rajendra. He established a new capital at Gangaikondacholapuram to commemorate the success of the expedition he sent north to subdue the kingdoms along the eastern coast. The expedition brought back symbolic pots of water from the Ganga giving the new city its name. He built this temple to embellish his new capital. It was completed in 1035 CE. The vimanam is 55 meters tall and is a bit shorter than Thanjavur, but is more beautiful. It has an upward concavity which gives it a certain feminity and grace as opposed to the more angular and masculine vimanam at Thanjavur, The temple is located in Gangaikondacholapuram close to Jayamkondan. Airavatesvarar Temple at Darasuram This temple was built by Rajaraja II and was completed in 1166 CE. Named after Lord Indra's elephant the Airavatham, it not as large as the other two temples in this group and does not sport a tall vimanam. But the sculptural art is more intricate and advanced tnan the other two. Especially interesting is the Rajagambhira Thirumandapam or Royal Courtyard. It is built in the form of a chariot and has ornate pillars and other sculptures carved out of stone. The temple is located on the outskirts of Kumbakonam. Courtesy Google Maps Access: These three temples are fairly close to each other. Dharasuram is on the outskirts of Kumbakonam which is good place to stay to visit this temple. Thanjavur also has good accommodation. Trichy is not too far away either. Gangaikondacholapuram is about 45 minutes from Kumbakonam and an hour from Thanjavur by car.

  • Temples of Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry: Temple Group #4 The Aaru Padai Veedugal - The Six Abodes of Lord Murugan

    ஆறு படை வீடு அல்லது அறு படை வீடு கோயில்கள் The Aaru Padai Veedu (ஆறு படை வீடு) or Aru Padai Veedu (அறு படை வீடு} are a group of six temples dedicated to Lord Murugan. Located around various regions of the state of Tamil Nadu, these temples are both ancient and of great spiritual significance to the Tamil people. Murugan is often referred to as the Tamil God and he likely predates the establishment of formal Vedic Hinduism or Sanatan practices in the Tamil country more than two thousand years ago. They find mention in ancient Tamil texts of the Sangam era. Thousands of pilgrims flock to these temples throughout the year and on special days and during festivals, the numbers swell to the tens of thousands. The great temples builders like the Pallava, Chola, Vijayanagar and the Nayakkar primarily worshipped Lord Siva or Lord Vishnu and built temples dedicated to these two deities. Perhaps for that reason the Murugan temples are not architecturally as impressive as the others. But to the devotee they are very important temples. These six temples are some of the most popular temples in Tamil Nadu. They are frequently referred to as the abodes of Murugan but a Padai Veedu means a battle encampment or fortress in Tamil emphasizing the martial qualities of Lord Murugan. But the six temples also symbolize various other attributes of Lord Murugan including knowledge and renunciation. The six temples are in order, Thiruparankundram near Madurai, Thiruchendur near Thoothukudi, Palani near Dindigul, Swamimalai in Kumbakonam and Thiruthani close to Chennai. Thiruparankundram is located on the outskirts of Madurai. It is the first Padai Veedu. It is also renowned as a Paadal Petra Sivasthalam. It is an ancient temple. It began as a rock cut cave temple set against a hill. The core of the temple is still the cave sanctum with it is idols cut into the rock face. The temple has been built in front of it over time by various dynasties. The entire hill is considered holy. Legend holds that this is where Lord Murugan married Devasena or Deivanai after he defeated the demon Surapadman. Thiruchendur is located on the seashore near Thoothukudi. It is the only coastal abode with others situated on or near hills or hillocks. This where legend says that Lord Murugan battled and defeated the demon Surapadman. Its location is special as it has survived many natural disasters like tsunamis over the centuries as well as the ravages of foreign invasions. Palani or Pazhani is located on top of a hill near the town of Dindigul in the interior of Tamil Nadu. The temple is also known as Thiru Avinankudi. The idol here is thought to be made of a combination of herbal substances called the Navapashanam in ancient times. It is a much revered shrine. It is either reached by climbing steep series of steps or by a rope or cable care that transports pilgrims to the top. This temple symbolizes Lord Murugan as the ascetic and emphasizes renunciation from worldly affairs as a central characteristic of the Hindu faith. The Lord here is also celebrated as Dhandayuthapani. Swamimalai in Kumbakonam is located in the Chola heartland. It is built on a small man made hillock. This is where Lord Murugan expounded the Pranava Mantra to his father Lord Siva according to legend. As such it symbolizes the wisdom of Lord Murugan. There are sixty steps to reach the sanctum symbolizing the 60 years in the Hindu calendar. Thiruthani is the fifth abode and is located near Chennai. It is situated on a hill surrounded by lush green forests. There are 365 steps to reach the top symbolizing the days of the year. Legend says that this where Lord Murugan attained inner peace after the intense battle with Surapadman. As such it symbolizes meditation and inner tranquility. The sixth and last abode is Palamuthircholai or Pazhamuthircholai which is located north of Madurai near Alagar Malai. It is up on a hillside and surrounded by verdant forest land. This is where Lord Murugan married Valli. It is also purported to be where the ancient legend which describes the Tamil poetess Avvaiyar being taught a lesson in semantics by the Lord Murugan in the guise of a young lad. It is known as the Sutta Palam (சுட்ட பழம்) versus the Sudatha Palam (சுடாத பழம்) story. Thiruparankundram is best accessed from Madurai which has excellent accommodation and access to a modern airport and rail connections. It is located on the southern outskirts of Madurai. Thiruchendur is located near Thoothukudi and Thirunelvely. Both towns have good accomodation and are easily accessible from Madurai. Swamimalai is near Kumbakonam which has decent hotels as it is a major pilgrimage centre and is also close to Thanjavur and not very far from Trichy either. Thiruthani is about 2.5 hours by car from Chennai and Chennai is the best base to access it. To visit Swamimalai, the best place to stay is Madurai. Courtesy Google Maps

  • Temples of Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry #1: Mangalanathaswamy Temple, Uthirakosamangai

    மங்களநாதசுவாமி திருக்கோயில், உத்திரகோசமங்கை This is a very ancient Siva temple on the coast in the southern district of Ramanathapuram of Tamil Nadu. Some claim that this is the oldest Sivan temple in the south. The site obviously is very old. It is not a Paadal Petra Sthalam (பாடல் பெற்ற தலம்) but is mentioned in the 9th century work by the Tamil Saivite poet-saint Manickavasagar ( மாணிக்கவாசகர்), the Thiruvasagam (திருவாசகம்). It lies 72 km or a 90 minute drive west of Rameswaram, over the Pamban bridge, on the mainland of the ancient Sethu country. Set in a serene rural area, this is indeed a hidden treasure. It is 111 km or 1hour and 45 minutes southeast of Madurai. Originally built by Pandian kings it was renovated and expanded many times later by other dynasties including Vijayanagar and Nayakkan kings. The current structure is an amalgamation of many styles by different builders over time. The Pandian kings built the core and others added on to it. We can see the stamp of the Sethupathi kings too. At 20 acres, it is larger than most other temples. The 5.5 feet high ancient emerald statue of Nataraja here is very special and is covered in sandalwood paste for most of the year to protect it. There are also Yalis with rolling balls in their mouths which are sculptural marvels. The legends mention a coastal temple. The sea seems to have receded several kilometres here over the centuries. Numerous legends abound. The name comes from the legend that Siva disclosed the secret of the universe to Uma at this site. Mandothari worshipped Sivan at this place and married Ravanan here. The 64th Thiruvilayadal (திருவிளையாடல்) - the Valai Veesiya Padalam (வலை வீசிய படலம்)- when Siva in a fit of anger cursed Parvathi to be born as a fisherman's daughter and Nanthi as a shark, is believed to have happened here. He later appeared as a fisherman, caught the shark and married the fisherman's daughter. Siva gave a private audience of the cosmic dance to Parvathi here before he danced in the Thillai forest. There are many many other stories, too numerous to write here. Come here to be blessed if you are a Hindu, especially a Saivite. If you are not, still come here to experience the history and the beauty of an ancient temple in a peaceful setting. Please note the differences in style of the inner gopurams (likely Pandian) and the outer gopurams (likely Vijayanagar or Nayakkan). Different eras. The narrow tall rajagopuram is for the Siva shrine and the squat shorter one is for the Amman shrine. It is administered by the controversial Hindu Religious and Charitable Endowments Department of the Government of Tamil Nadu. We visited in Aug 2019. We used Rameswaram as the base. Credits: Google Maps

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