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  • Temples of Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry #105: Naganathaswamy Temple, Thirunageswaram

    நாகநாதசுவாமி திருக்கோயில், திருநாகேசுவரம் Another Navagraham Sthalam, this Sivan temple is associated with Lord Raahu. Raahu is the Ascending or Northern Lunar Node, the point where the moon's orbit intersects the solar ecliptic on its northern arc. Like the Southern Lunar Node, it is linked to the occurrence of eclipses. In ancient Hindu mythology an eclipse was described as a serpent swallowing the Moon or the Sun. As such these two points in space are associated with the divine serpents Raahu and Kethu respectively. Naagam means cobra and Lord Sivan, the presiding deity, is known as Naganathaswamy. It is a Paadal Petra Sthalam. Legends abound. The eight holy serpents Vasuki, Ananthan, Padman, Mahapadman, Thathchakan, Karkodakan, Sankapalan. Kulikan as well as Adhiseshan are believed to have worshipped Lord Sivan here. It is a temple for people to relieve themselves of Raahu dosham. When the world came to an end in the great deluge of the Maha Pralayam at the end of the last yugam, and life on earth was in danger of extinction, Lord Brahma placed the seeds of future resurgence of life in the next yuga in a clay pot or Kumbham (Holy Pot) and added Amirtham the holy elixir of immortality. He then placed the Kumbham on top of Mount Meru. During the pralayam the kumbam floated around in the great oceans and came to rest at Kumbakonam. During that event the Amirtham splashed and 5 drops scattered around a five krosham distance of the centre of Kumbakonam or Kudanthai. A krosham is an ancient Indian unit of measurement of distance and is roughly around 1.3 miles or 2.08 kms. These five spots became the sites of five ancient temples around Kumbakonam known as the Pancha Krosha Sthalams of Kumbakonam. They are Thirunageswaram. Thiruvidaimaruthur, Darasuram, Swamimalai and Koranattu Karuppur. They are within 5 krosham distance in radius from the centre of Kumbakonam. Other sacred cities such as Ujjain and Pazhayarai also have Pancha Krosha Sthalams. As a Paadal Petra Sthalam, it must have existed in some form in the early 7th century. In the mid 10th century, the deeply Saivite king Gandaraditya Cholan (CE 950 -957), son of Paranthakan I and husband of Sembiyan Mahadevi, converted this temple into a granite structure. An inscription from Gandaradiyan's time describes the renovation. There are 16 sets of inscriptions from the time of Gandaradiya Cholan, Rajarajan and Rajendran I. Sekkizhar, the author of the Periyapuranam, the hagiography of the Saivite saints, is associated with this temple. He was the prime minister of Kulothunga II and was a great Sivan devotee. He renovated this temple in the 12th century and in honour of this there are sculptures in this temple of him, his mother and brother. In the 17th century, Govinda Dikshitar an official in the Nayakkar court, did renovations at this temple and built a mandapam. An unknown king or chieftain by the name Sambumali is credited with the construction of the sacred tank, the Surya Pushkarani or Soola Theertham here. Arimalazham Annamalai Chettiar has carried out extensive renovations in 1929. At 15 acres in area, it was a fairly large temple. Today, it measure 800 feet east-west and 630 feet north-south for an area of 12 acres due to modern day encroachments. Still a large temple. It is an east-facing temple. It has a 5 tier rajagopuram and the secondary rajagopuram has 4 tiers. There are entrances in all four directions with gopurams. Altogether there are 6 gopurams. There are three enclosed prakarams or circumambulatory precincts. The Lord manifests in the sanctum as a Sivalingam. The shrine for Lord Raahu is at the northeastern corner of the second precinct. There are two Amman Sannithis, the Piraiyaninuthalumai Sannithi and the Girigujambikai Sannithi. The Sthala Virutcham is the Shenbaga Tree. The Theertham is the Soola or Surya Theertham. The main festival or Brahmotsavam is held for 10 days in the Tamil month of Karthigai (November/December), when the processional deity takes to the streets in a chariot. The temple is administered by the HR and CE. This is the 146th Paadal Petra Sthalam and the 29th on the southern bank of the Kaveri River. It has the special distinction of being celebrated in the Thevaram by all three of the Moovar, Sampanthar, Appar and Sundarar. One of only 44 temples with that recognition. In Sundarar's words: பிறையணி வாணுதலாள் உமையாளவள் பேழ்கணிக்க நிறையணி நெஞ்சனுங்க நீலமால்விடம் உண்டதென்னே குறையணி குல்லைமுல்லை அளைந்துகுளிர் மாதவிமேல் சிறையணி வண்டுகள்சேர் திருநாகேச் சரத்தானே.  (Uma the Goddess who wears the crescent on her beautiful forehead was frightened and her heart froze when you drank the blue poison. Why O Lord? You, who resides in the forest of Thirunageswaram where bees buzz around beautiful flowering creepers like the Kullai, Mullai and the Madhavi that flutter in the cool breeze) It is very important that we do not confuse this temple with the nearby Nageswarar temple within the the town of Kumbakonam. It is easy to do so. That is also a Paadal Petra Sthalam of great antiquity and a marvel of early Chola architecture. That temple was built by Adityan I. More on it in a later post in the coming months.. This temple is located on the eastern outskirts of Kumbakonam, about 5 km from its centre. It is about 100 km or 1.5 hours east of Thiruchirapalli. It is about 150 km or 2.5 hours south of Pondicherry. We visited in June 2025. We were based in Kumbakonam. Sources: N. Chockalingam 1971, Census of India 1961. Volume IX. Part XI -D. Temples of Tamil Nadu Page 177-178 Shaivam.org - Thevaram Courtesy Google Maps Courtesy Google Maps

  • Temples of Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry #104: Agniswarar Temple, Kanjanur

    அக்னீசுவரர் திருக்கோயில், கஞ்சனூர் Identified with the Navagraham deity Lord Sukkiran or Venus, this temple is a popular pilgrimage site as it is one of the nine Navagraham temples. There is no special or separate shrine for Lord Sukkiran, but Lord Sivan the presiding deity himself manifests as Lord Venus. It is a Paadal Petra Sthalam celebrated in the Thevaram. It is located on the north bank of the Kaveri near Kumbakonam. Kanjan is another name for Lord Venus and thus this village is known as Kanjanur. Given the great antiquity of the temple, there are many legends centred around it. It is said that Lord Sivan blessed Lord Vishnu when he came here in his Vamana Avatharam after being cursed by the Asura Guru Shukracharya. Lord Agni the God of Fire, once got rid of an affliction here. Hence the name Agniswarar for the Lord here. The temple is also associated with the legend of Haradattar. Haradattar was a Sivan devotee who was born into a staunchly Vaishnavite family with the birth name Sudharshanar, and embraced Lord Sivan against his family's wishes. Lord Sivan himself is believed to have given Haradattar dharshan in the form of Dakshinamurthy. The Dakshinamurthy idol in this temple has a figure representing Haradattar at his feet in addition to the traditional Muyalagan under his right foot. Manakanchara Nayanar (மானக்கஞ்சாற நாயனார்), Chola general and one of the 63 Saivite saints was born here. His son-in-law and fellow Chola commander turned saint, Eyarkon Kalikkama Nayanar (ஏயர்கோன் கலிக்காம நாயனார்), was also closely associated with this temple. Once an ardent devotee of Lord Sivan inadvertently killed a calf and was extremely remorseful. He approached Haradattar who advised him to feed a bundle of grass to the Nandhi here, The stone Nandhi is believed to have eaten the grass. Hence the Nandhi here has been known as Pullunda Nandhi (the Nandhi that ate grass) ever since. There are many other stories including the one about Suraikai Bakthar. Suraikai (சுரைக்காய்) is bottle gourd in Tamil. Suraikai Bakthar cultivated bottle gourd for a living and distributed most of it to the poor. One day he had only one gourd left which he was saving for its seeds. Then Lord Sivan appeared in the guise of a poor beggar and asked for food. The benevolent farmer did not have the heart to say no. He cut the last gourd in half and fed the beggar. There is a special shrine here for him. It is believed that Lord Sukkiran worshipped Lord Sivan here. The sage Parasarar was given the vision of the cosmic dance here and was cured of insanity. The temple was patronised by Medieval Chola kings who built the earliest existent granite structures. It was extensively renovated by kings of the Vijayanagar Empire in the 15th and 16th centuries. The Nayakkar have also made significant contributions.There are inscriptions from the times of Vikrama Cholan, Kulothunga Cholan I, Veera Rajendra Cholan and Krishnadevaraya, the Vijayanagar emperor. It has a 5 tiered rajagopuram and two prakarams. The sivalingam here absorbs the oil poured on it during abhishekam. It is a self manifested Suyambulingam. The temple and the deity face east but the rajagopuram faces south. The arthamandapam has a peculiar architecture and is called the Vavval Nethi (bat's forehead) mandapam. The sthala virutcham is the Purasu or Pala tree, a subspecies of the Jack tree. The main theerthams are the Agni Theertham and Parasara Theertham tanks. The major festivals are the Maasi Magam, Aadi Pooram as well as the Haradattar Festival in January. It is a Paadal Petra sthalam and one of the seven Saptha Sthana Sthalams of Kanjanur. This is the 90th Paadal Petra Sthalam and the 36th on the northern bank of the Kaveri. Thirunavukkarasar or Appar rendered the pathigam or decad during his visit here in the early 7th century. He stopped here on his way to Thirukodikkaa from Thirumanancheri. He sings thus: மூவிலைநற் சூலம்வல னேந்தி னானை மூன்றுசுடர்க் கண்ணானை மூர்த்தி தன்னை நாவலனை நரைவிடையொன் றேறு வானை நால்வேத மாறங்க மாயி னானை ஆவினிலைந் துகந்தானை அமரர் கோவைஅயன்றிருமா லானானை அனலோன் போற்றுங் காவலனைக் கஞ்சனூ ராண்ட கோவைக் கற்பகத்தைக் கண்ணாரக் கண்டுய்ந் தேனே (He who holds a three-leaved trident in His right hand; He is triple-eyed; He is the Moorthi; He is the Poet; He rides a white Bull; He is the four Vedas and the six Angas; He is the master of the five actions. He is the king of the Devar. He is praised by Brahma, Vishnu and Agni, the Lord of Fire. He is our protector. He is benevolent like the karpagam tree. He is the king of Kanjanur. I saw him to my eyes' content and felt deeply blessed) The temple belongs to the HR and CE but the Madurai Thirugnana Sambantha Swamigal Adheenam retains a direct role in its day to day administration. The maintenance can be better. It is located about 111km or 2 hours east of Thiruchirapalli and 130 km or 3 hours south of Pondicherry. It is close to Kumbakonam and just 18 km or 30 minutes east of it. We visited in June 2025. We were based in Kumbakonam. Sources: Dinamalar Temples - Agneeswarar Kanjanur (Tamil) N. Chockalingam 1971, Census of India 1961. Volume IX. Part XI -D. Temples of Tamil Nadu Page 160 Shaivam.org -Thevaram Courtesy Google Maps

  • Temples of Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry #103: Suriyanar Koil, Aduthurai, Kumbakonam

    சூரியனார் திருக்கோயில், ஆடுதுறை, கும்பகோணம் Called the Sivasuriya Peruman Koil, this popular temple is one of the Navagraham temples. The Navagrahams are nine celestial bodies or points in space celebrated in Hindu or Sanatana belief systems. They are commonly referred to as the nine planets which is not accurate. A trip to all Navagraham temples is a common pilgrimage for many. This temple is for the Sun God on whose bounty all life on planet earth exists. There are only a few temples in India dedicated to the Sun, like the Sun Temple at Konarak, Odisha or the the one in Modhera, Gujarat. Here in the Tamil country, this small temple also honours the Sun. Although there is a shrine for the Sun in many Saivite temples, a dedicated temple is rare. Here, images of Lord Sun and his consorts Usha Devi and Pratyusha Devi, grace the sanctum instead of Lord Sivan. It is the only temple of the nine Navagraham temples where Lord Sivan is not the presiding deity. There are separate shrines for all the other eight Navagrahams here, which is also unique. Legend says that the Navagraham deities were rid of a curse by Lord Sivan and were given permission to grant boons to devotees independently here at this holy site. The antiquity of the temple is unclear. Sangam literature mentions a Sun Temple at Uchikizhan Kottam in Poompuhar which was destroyed by a massive tsunami. So the worship of the Sun and building temples to it are ancient practices. The Suriyanar Koil is the only one that has survived. The earliest structures here are from the time of Kulothunga Cholan I (1066-1118). An inscription from that time refers to the temple as Kulothunga Chola Marthandalaya. It is said that his interest in the temple was influenced by his allies, the Gahadavala dynasty of Kanauj who were ardent worshippers of the Sun. The temple was also extensively renovated by the Vijayanagar kings. There is an inscription from the time of the Vijayanagar emperor Krishnadevaraya, mentioning important endowments. The temple faces west. It has a three tiered rajagopuram and is enclosed by a granite walled rectangular compound. At 2 acres in area, it is a relatively small temple. There is a tank or theertham to the left or north as you enter. It is called the Suyra Theertham. The Kol Theertha Vinayagar shrine here is very auspicious. The vimanam is designed like a chariot, symbolizing the belief that Lord Sun traverses the cosmos on a chariot drawn by seven horses. There are statuettes of horses on the vimanam. The shrine for Lord Guru is right opposite the main sanctum and is said to cool down the heat emanating from Lord Surya. The other seven Navagraham shrines are spread around the compound, all facing Suryanar. The temple has unique and elaborate worship rituals. It is customary to visit the nearby Paadal Petra Sthalam at Thirumangalakudi before visiting here. The order of worship is peculiar. Most devotees will turn left or northwards as you enter the through the rajagopuram. They will either dip in the theertham or sprinkle water from it on their heads before turning southwards to worship Lord Kol Theertha Vinayagar. They then will visit the Sabanayagar mandapam to see the Utsava moorthy before proceeding to the main mandapam to worship Lord Sivan as Kasi Viswanathar. Subsequently, they will enter the mahamandapam to pay homage to Lord Guru before worshipping Suryanar in the sanctum sanctorum. They then will go on to worship the other Navagraham deities in a particular order. The circumambulation is done nine times. The sthala virutcham is the Vellerukku tree. The theertham is Surya Theertham. The major festival is the Rathasapthami which is a ten day festival in the Tamil month of Thai (January/February) which marks the beginning of the Utharayanam. It symbolizes the beginning of the Sun God's journey north. The temple is administered by the HR and CE. Photography was difficult given the ongoing renovations. There was a lot of scaffolding covering the major elements. The renovations seem tacky compared to the elegant ancient core of the temple, a common result of renovations. The temple is located about 100 km or 2 hours east of Thiruchirapalli, 55 km or 1 hour east of Thanjavur and close to Kumbakonam. We visited in June 2025. We were based in Kumbakonam. Sources: Dinamalar Temples TempleNet-Surynaar Koil N. Chockalingam 1971, Census of India 1961. Volume IX. Part XI -D. Temples of Tamil Nadu Page 158. Courtesy Google Maps

  • Temples of Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry: Temple Group #5 - Paadal Petra Sthalangal of Pandiya Nadu

    The southernmost part of the state of Tamil Nadu and India itself was the domain of the ancient Pandiyan dynasty. They ruled with Madurai as their capital and two great rivers, the Vaigai and the Thamirabarani watered their lands. With the ocean to the east and south and the Western Ghats to the west, their territory bordered the Kongu lands to the northwest and the Cholanadu to the northeast. In the Sangam period the ancient Pandiyan kings were the patrons of the Thamil Sangams, assemblies of poets and bards who created the corpus of Tamil literary works often referred to as the Sangam literature. One time ardent Buddhists and Jains, the Pandiyan kings were converted back to Saivism in the 7th century by Thirugnanasampanthar and Queen Mangayarkarasi who is also one of the 63 nayanmar. The kings rebuilt and embellished many Saivite sites and the nayanmar sang in praise of them. When the deeply Saivite Cholas took control of the Pandiyan lands in the mid to late 10th century, they patronised these ancient Sivan temples and expanded them further. Many temples which were built of brick, wood and stucco, were rebuilt in granite stone. Their contributions are still visible in these temples. Tall gopurams and mandapams were added during Vijayanagar and Nayakkan times. Of the Saivite sites in the Pandiyan country, the 14 Paadal Petra Sthalangal are preeminent temples. These temples have been praised in verse by the moovar, Thirugnanasampanthar, Thirunavukkarasar and Sundarar, whose works comprise the thevaram. They are spread across the Pandiyan land. The 14 temples are Meenakshiamman - Sundareswarar Temple in Madurai, Ramanathaswamy Temple in Rameshwaram, Thiruparankundram, Nellaiappar Temple at Thirunelveli, Kutralanathar Temple at Thirukutralam, Thirumeninathar or Bhoominathar Temple at Thiruchuli, Pushpavaneswarar Temple at Thirupuvanam, Edaganathar Temple at Thiruvedagam, Aappudaiyar Temple at Thiruappanur, Kodunkundranathar Temple at Thirukodunkundram, Adhirathineswarar Temple at Thiruvadanai, Thiruthalinathar Temple at Thirupathur, Sornakaleeswarar Temple Kalayarkoil and Pazhampathinathar Temple at Thirupunavasal. Meenakshi -Sundareswarar Temple at Madurai: Located in the heart of the ancient city of Madurai, this massive temple is popular among devotees and tourists. It was known as Thiru Alavai in ancient times. Destroyed during the raids of the Delhi Sultanate, it was rebuilt by the Nayakkar kings in its current form in the late 16th century. With its 14 towering gopurams and 33, 000 intricate sculptures, it is an architectural marvel. Thirugnanasampanthar and Thirunavukkarasar rendered the pathikams here. Ramanathaswamy Temple at Rameswaram : One of the most revered Sivan temples in India, it is one of the 12 Jyotirlinga Sthalams and the only one in the Tamil country. It is a popular pilgrimage site and millions of people from all over India visit here every year. Praised in sacred hymns of the thevaram by all three of the moovar, Appar (Thirunavukkarasar), Sampanthar (Thirugnanasampanthar) and Sundarar (Sundaramoorthy Nayanar, it is a much celebrated temple. Thiruparankundram Temple: This temple is situated in the southern part of Madurai and is an ancient cave temple. The entire hill of Thiruparankundram is considered sacred. The temple is also celebrated as one of the 6 Padai Veedu of Lord Murugan. This is considered as the 3rd Paadal Petra Sthalam in the Pandiya Nadu. Sampanthar rendered the pathikam here. Nellaiappar Temple at Thirunelveli: The temple is found in the southern town of Thirunelveli. Once a secondary seat of power for the ancient Pandiyan kings. It was a town where they stabilized for a period after their rout by the forces of the Delhi Sultanate in the 14th century. It is celebrated as one of the 5 Pancha Sabai temples. It is the Thamira sabai or the Hall of Copper. It has thevaram pathigams from all three of the moovar, Appar, Sampanthar and Sundarar. Kutralanathar Temple at Thirukutralam: Tucked away on the eastern slopes of the southern part of the Western Ghats with a waterfalls by its side, is this ancient temple to Lord Sivan. It is northwest of Thirunelveli. It is the Chithira Sabai or Hall of Paintings of the Pancha Sabai. The temple of murals and paintings is a separate structure away from and up the hill from the temple proper. Sampanthar composed the pathikam for this temple. Thirumeninathar or Bhoominathar Temple at Thiruchuli: Located southeast of Madurai, it is a large and beautiful temple. It is often spelled as Tiruchuzhi. Originally built by the Pandiyan kings, it has been embellished by the dynasties that have followed. In modern times, Swami Vivekananda spent 3 days here during his yatra of the south. It is the 12th Paadal Petra Sthalam in the Pandiya Nadu. Sundarar rendered the pathigam here. Edaganathar Temple at Thiruvedagam: Very close to Madurai and just northwest of the city is this ancient Paadal Petra Sthalam that is closely associated with saint Thirugnasampanthar. In the 7th century he won a debate with Jain monks by making his Edu (palm leaf book) float against the stream on the Vaigai River here. Sampanthar dedicated a pathigam for this temple. Appar mentions it in the Kaappu Thiruthandagam. Pushpavaneswarar Temple at Thirupuvanam: Located very close to Madurai and just east of it, this is a Paadal Petra Sthalam of great antiquity. This is where Sampanthar saw thousands of sivalingams in the sand and did not want to step on it. All three of the moovar, Appar, Sampanthar and Sundarar have praised this temple in thevaram. It is the 10th Paadal Petra Stalam in Pandiya Nadu. Aappudaiyar Temple at Thiruvappanur: This temple is found in the Sellur neighbourhood of Madurai. It is an ancient temple and is a Paadal Petra Sthalam. Legend says that a king once borrowed a wedge or Aappu from a woodcutter, to serve as a sivalingam for his worship. The Aappu would not move and a temple had to be built around it. Sampanthar composed the pathigam here. It is the 2nd Paadal Petra Sthalam in the Pandiyan country. Kodunkundranathar Temple at Thrukodunkundram: Set against the base of the ancient and sacred Piranmalai, this temple is northeast of Madurai and southwest of Tiruchirapalli at about the same distance from both cities. The legend of Paari Vallal, the king who gave up his chariot for a wild jasmine creeper, is associated with this temple. Sampanthar rendered the sacred thevaram for this temple. It is the 5th Paadal Petra Sthalam in the Pandiyan country. Adhirathineswarar Temple at Thiruvadanai: East of Madurai and almost at the coast, this ancient temple is a celebrated sivasthalam. The name comes from the legend that the son of Varuna was cursed to be born as an animal with the body of an elephant and the head of a goat. He was rid of this curse here. Sampanthar sang the pathikam for this temple. It is the 9th Paadal Petra Sthalam in Pandiya Nadu. Thiruthalinathar Temple at Thirupathur: This large and beautiful temple is northeast of Madurai and close to Karaikudi. It is sometimes referred to as Thiruputhur. It Is a large temple with 3 prakarams. The Bhairavar here is unusual in that he is in a sitting posture and is referred to as the Yoga Bhairavar. It is the 6th Paadal Petra Sthalam in the Pandiya Nadu. Sampanthar and Appar have dedicated pathigams in honour of this ancient temple. Sornakaleeswarar Temple Kalayarkoil: Located east of Madurai and close to Karaikudi. this is a storied and ancient temple. Closely linked to the Marudu brothers who played a pivotal role during the Polygar Wars of the late 18th century, it is drenched in Tamil Nadu history. Sampanthar and Sundarar sang in praise of this temple. It is the 10th Paadal Petra Sthalam in the Pandiyan land. Pazhampathinathar Temple at Thirupunavasal: East of Madurai on the eastern coast, this temple is situated at the mouth of the Pambar River. Thus it is called Punavasal or the temple at the river mouth. Its antiquity is reflected in the name of Lord Sivan here, Pazhampathinathar or the Ancient Lord. There is a shrine in the outer prakaram that houses 14 sivalingams, representing all 14 Paadal Petra Sthalangal in Pandiya Nadu. It is the 7th Paadal Petra Sthalam of the fourteen. Sampanthar and Sundarar were the authors of the pathigams here. Suggested itinerary: If you want to visit all 14 temples in a single trip ,you will need at least 7-8 days. You will need a car and a driver. We suggest starting with Madurai Meenakshiamman on the morning of Day 1. Thiruparankundram can be seen in the evening. You can see Thiruvappanur , Thirupuvanam and Thiruvedagam on Day 2 based in Madurai. On the morning of Day 3 you can head to Rameswaram early in the morning and stop at Thiruchuli on the way. You can arrive in Rameswaram for a late lunch. That evening you can take a break from temples and visit Danushkodi or another site. Stay at Rameswaram for the night. You can start Day 4 with an early morning visit to to the Ramanathaswamy Temple . Spend the morning at the temple and return to the hotel for lunch. After lunch set out for Thirunelveli. Plan to arrive around 4 pm. Check into the hotel quickly and you may be able to visit Nellaiappar in the evening. Go to Kutralam early in the morning of Day 5. It is at least a 1.5 hour drive from Thirunelveli and you have to leave early to return to the hotel in Thirunelveli for lunch. After lunch, leave for Madurai and arrive in Madurai for dinner and stay overnight. On the morning of Day 6 , visit Thirukodunkundram at Piranmalai on the way to a hotel in the Karaikudi area for lunch and check in. In the evening, visit Thirupathur . The next day, Day7 , you can visit Kalayarkoil and Thiruvadanai in the morning and Thirupunavasal in the evening. Return to hotel in the Karaikudi area for the night. You can add a couple of days if you want do this at a more leisurely pace or if you want to incorporate other temples or sites . Sources: Shiva Temples of Tamil Nadu shivatemples.com 276 Shiva Temple - Thevaram Thiruthalangal aanmeegam.org Courtesy Google Maps Madurai and vicinity

  • Temples of Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry #91: Thiruthalinathar Temple, Thirupathur

    திருத்தளிநாதர் திருக்கோயில், திருப்பத்தூர் This place was called Thiruputhur (திருப்புத்தூர்) in older sources and is sometimes thus referred to even now. It is an ancient temple. It is a Paadal Petra Sthalam. It is one of the 14 Paadal Petra Sthalams of the Pandya Nadu and is close to Madurai and Karaikudi. There are other towns and at least one with a famous ancient temple elsewhere with the same or similar name which sometimes leads to confusion. The temple is celebrated in the Thevaram with dedicated songs by Thirugnanasampanthar and Thirunavukkarasar and must have existed in some form in the early 7th century. It has evidence of contributions to its construction by later Pallavas, Chola, Pandya, Vijayanagara, Nayakkan, Sethupathi kings and the Maruthu Pandiyar. This period spans a thousand years. There are 51 sets of inscriptions pertaining to various donations made to this temple. Most are from the later Pandyan period from the 13th and early 14th centuries. There also Vijayanagar era inscriptions from the late 14th century to early 16th centuries. One such inscription celebrates the liberation of the temple from control of the Madurai Sultanate and its subsequent purification and reconsecration. At 15 acres in area, it is a very large temple. It has a 5 tier rajagopuram and 3 prakarams. The sanctum has circular pilasters on the vimanam harking back to the Chola era. This feature is found in a few other Chola era temples. The Lord has an east facing shrine. The shrine for Goddess Sivakami also faces the same direction. It has several sub shrines.The sanctums are on raised pedestals. The kodungai work here is impressive. Kodungai are the stone carvings that adorn the roof and overhangs of mandapams that resemble woodwork and are from the Nayakkan era. They represent great skill and craftsmanship in stoneworking. There are architectural features from many eras blending into the final product here. The Sthala Virutcham is the Sarakondrai tree. In between the shrines for the Lord and the Goddess, there is a sub shrine for Bhairavar that is very special at this temple. Here Bhairavar is in a seated position and in meditation as opposed to his usual standing posture and is known as Yoga Bhairavar. Due to this the temple is sometimes referred to as the Bhairavan or Vairavan temple. The Yoga Narayanan idol and shrine is also special. The Navagraha idols are seated and not standing as usual and this is also unique here. There is a special shrine for Thirunageswarar in the third prakaram. Legends say that Lord Siva danced the Cosmic dance called the Gowri Thandavam here at the request of Goddess Mahalakshmi. Sage Valmiki who composed the Ramayanam is believed to have worshipped the Lord here, It is one of the 14 Paadal Petra Sthalams in the Pandiya country. It is the 6th Paadal Petra Sthalam in Pandiya Nadu and 250th overall. Thirugnanasampanthar and Thirunavukkarasar composed pathikams dedicated to this temple in the early 7th century. Sampanthar sang thus: வெங்கள் விம்மு வெறியார் பொழிற்சோலை திங்க ளோடு திளைக்குந் திருப்புத்தூர்க் கங்கை தங்கு முடியா ரவர்போலும் எங்க ளுச்சி யுறையு மிறையாரே. (In this beautiful verdant grove called Thiruputhur filled with flowers laden with intoxicating nectar, resides our Lord whose crown is adorned with the moon and the Ganga and who also always lives in our minds and thoughts too) The temple is located about 70 km or 1 hour drive northeast of Madurai. It is about 20 km or 30 minutes west of Karaikudi. We visited in June 2025. We were based in Kanadukathan near Karaikudi. Sources: Temple History - Koyilgal Varalar u V.S Gurusamy Desikar Thevaram Govt of India Census Report 1961 Vol 6 Madurai/Ramnad Districts Page 193 Credits: Google Maps

  • Temples of Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry: The Hill of Truth - The Thirumayam Fort Complex

    திருமயம் கோட்டை This enigmatic hill fort has been in use as a gathering place since prehistoric times. The red ochre rock paintings on granite surfaces inside the complex attest to its antiquity. Human figures and hand prints are discernible. Unprotected and heavily vandalized in the past, they are better protected these days. They are said to be at least 7000 yrs old. It is home to two ancient and beautiful cave temples, the Sathyagirisvarar Sivan Temple and the Sathyamurthy Perumal Vishnu temple. These two temples were carved out of an existing natural cavern during early Pandiyan and Pallava times and have been expanded into large temples in the intervening centuries. There is a mysterious small cave cell with a rectangular entry cut into the western face of the granite hill forming the hill. Folklore says that it was hidden and some tremors from a distant earthquake dislodged the sealed entrance revealing a sivalingam on a square avudayar carved out of the rock. It is unclear when this alleged incident happened or whether it is true. Today you can climb a narrow metal stairway to reach it. There is no record of when it was built and who built it. The style is suggestive of the 6th or 7th centuries. It was likely excavated around the same time as the two cave temples mentioned above. There are also a number of smaller shrines around the fort premises. They are for village deities like Karuppar, Hanuman, Sakthi and Ganesha. They dot the fort complex and are likely of ancient origin. The rocky hill has served as an outpost and fortress for centuries. It was developed as a fortress in its current form by the Raja of Ramanathapuram, Vijaya Raghunatha Sethupathi Thevar or Kizhavan Sethupathi in 1687. It is about 40 acres in area. It is a ring fort with concentric walls. Originally there were seven walls and only four have survived. The fort played an important role during the Polygar wars of the late 18th and early 19th centuries. The Polygars or Paalayakkaarar were regional chieftains or governors under Vijayanagar and Nayakkan rule, who continued to rule their minor chiefdoms or paalayams after the fall of the Nayakkar. They were some of the first people to offer armed, organized resistance to the British take over of India. Many of them were captured and executed by forces of the British East India Company and became folk heroes. Oomaithurai (the Silent Lord), younger brother of the legendary Kattabomman of Panchalankurichi, took refuge here at Thirumayam Fort before eventual capture and execution in 1801. The Battle of Thirumayam is an important one in the resistance wars of the Paalayakkaarar. Thus it is an important symbol of Tamil valour. The locals often refer to it as Oomaiyan Kottai. After the defeat of the Paalayakaarar, the British took over the fort and used it as a military outpost. A number of cannons belonging to that era are found here. Thirumayam is also the birthplace of S. Satyamurti (1877-1943), the legendary 20th century freedom fighter and activist. He played a significant role during India's freedom struggle from British rule. He was a highly respected and influential leader of the freedom movement led by Gandhi. The Thirumayam fort and temples are administered by the ASI, while the HR and CE exercises control over some of the temple activities. The ASI has renovated the premises in 2020 and it has done an impressive job. When we visited here in 2012, I came back with sadness and frustration that such a precious heritage site was so neglected and ruined. When we visited this time, I came back happy and content. The place is cleaner, neater and in a much better condition overall. We stopped to commend the cleaning staff on the wonderful work they were doing. The Thirumayam Fort Complex is located about 100 km or 1.5 hours northeast of Madurai and about 72 km or 1 hour and 15 minutes south of Tiruchirapalli. It is a ticketed site of the ASI and there is a booth at the entrance to buy tickets. The tickets are not costly at all. The two cave temples are not ticketed and offer free entrance. We visited in June 2025. We were based in Kanadukathan. Sources: Saurabh Saxena: Thirumayam - The Land of Truth - Puratattva.in Ria Gupta. Thirumayam Fort: The story behind the fort of the chieftains who defied the British. Condè Nast Traveller. 2022 Nacchinarkkiniyan M Four caverns of different sizes discovered at Thirumayam Hill. The Indian Express July 14, 2023 Courtesy Google Maps

  • Temples of Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry #99: Sornakaaleeswarar Temple, Kalayarkoil

    சொர்ணகாளீசுவர் திருக்கோயில், காளையார் கோயில் In ancient times this place was named Thirukanapper (திருக்கானப்பேர்) and it is thus referred to in the Sangam period work the Purananooru. Thirugnanasampanthar calls it by that name in the 7th century. In the 8th century, Sundarar, while touring the temples of the region had a dream, where Lord Sivan in the form of a bull, asked him to come to this temple. He addressed the Lord here as the Bull or Kaalai in Tamil. Thus this temple and the town came to be known as Kalayar Koyil. It is pronounced Kaalayaar Koyil or Kovil. It is a Paadal Petra Sthalam glorified in sacred verse in the Thevaram by Sampanthar and Sundarar. Legend also says that an enraged Goddess Kaali regained her usual composure and form here after she was engaged in battle with the demon Chandasuran. Perhaps another reason for the name Kaaleeswarar. Already an important Sivasthalam in the early 7th century when Sampanthar visited here, it has since been rebuilt over the centuries numerous times. The Pandiyan king Varaguna Pandiyan is mentioned as a king who built this temple. In the 18th century, the Kings of Sivaganga and the Zamindar of Devakottai contributed to its upkeep. The Marudhu Pandiyar brothers are closely associated with this temple. Today the Sivagangai Devasthanam, the charitable trust of the royal house of Sivagangai, the Sivagangai Samasthanam, has an active role in maintaining this temple, although it is controlled by the HR and CE. This temple figures prominently in the battles that took place during early British rule in the area when the minor rulers of the southern part of the Tamil country banded together and led a rebellion against the British East India Company. On June 25, 1772, British soldiers of the Company under the command of Colonel Joseph Smith and Captain Abraham Bonjour, marched on the temple. Then ruler of Sivaganga, Muthu Vaduga Natha Thevar and the Marudhu brothers defended it. The king was killed in the ensuing Battle of Kalayarkoil and the temple was looted and ransacked. The Marudhu brothers eluded capture and led a prolonged guerilla war against the British, until they were eventually forced to surrender and were executed. The British gave an ultimatum that they would raze the Kalayar Koyil temple to the ground if the Marudhu brothers did not turn themselves in. The Marudhu brothers surrendered rather than risk letting the British destroy their sacred temple. They were hanged to death on October 24, 1801 at nearby Thirupathur and their bodies were left hanging for days as a warning to the local public to never question British authority again. It was an exceptionally ruthless case of British colonial brutality. The followers and family members of the Marudhu brothers were permanently exiled to Penang, Malaya. The temple thus became a symbol of Tamil valour, resistance and devotion to their religion. The tombs of the Marudhu brothers housing their mortal remains are found a few hundred feet in front of the temple where they were buried according to their wishes. The temple has a unique structure in that there are three shrines in a row where Lord Sivan manifests as a lingam in each sanctum together with his consort. The three Sivan shrines symbolize the three main cosmic functions of the Lord - Creation, Preservation and Destruction. In the middle is the Kaleeswarar. To his right is the Lord as Someswarar. Sundareswarar is to the left. The Amman, Sornambigai has a dedicated shrine of her own further left. There are two rajagopurams fronting onto the street. The taller 9 tier, 155 feet rajagopuram is in front of the Someswarar Sannathi. This was constructed by the Marudhu brothers in the late 18th century. The towers of the Madurai Meenakshi Amman temple are visible from the top of this gopuram. The shorter, 5 tier, 90 feet rajagopuram is in front of the Kaleeswarar shrine and is older. Some claim that it was built by Pandiyan Varagunan in the 7th century, but that is unlikely to be true. Although the temple was in existence in the 7th century, the rajagopuram likely got built during later Pandiyan or Nayakkan rule. The temple has many sub shrines and at 4 acres, it is a fair sized temple. There are a number of theerthams including the Anai Madu or Gajapushkarani which is a large and impressive tank with a beautiful madam in the middle. Legend associates the construction of this vast temple tank with the divine elephant of Lord Indra, the Airavatham. The sthala virutcham or temple tree is the Kokku Mantharai. Statues in honour of king Muthu Vaduga Natha Thevar and the Marudhu Pandiyar brothers are installed in the temple. The main festival is around Thai Poosam in the Tamil month of Thai and is in honour of Kaleeswarar. The brahmotsavam for Someswarar falls in the Tamil month of Vaikasi. Adi Pooram is celebrated for goddess Sornavalli. The gurupoojai for the Marudhu Pandiyar is celebrated in late October. It is the 254th Paadal Petra Sthalam and the 10th in the Pandiyan country. Thirugnasampanthar and Sundarar rendered the pathikams here. Gnanasampanthar extols thus: பிடியெலாம் பின்செலப்பெருங்கைமா மலர்தழீஇ விடியலே தடமூழ்கி விதியினால் வழிபடுங் கடியுலாம் பூம்பொழிற் கானப்பேர் அண்ணல்நின் அடியலால் அடைசரண் உடையரோ அடியரே (Here, where the grand tusker with a retinue of female elephants in tow, dips in the temple tank and worships HIm before dawn with flowers, where flowers bloom in abundance, resides the Lord of Kanaper. There is no greater boon for his devotees than to attain sanctuary at his blessed feet here) Sundarar praises the Lord here thus: தொண்ட ரடித்தொழலுஞ் சோதி இளம்பிறையுஞ் சூதன மென்முலையாள் பாகமு மாகிவரும் புண்டரி கப்பரிசாம் மேனியும் வானவர்கள் பூச லிடக்கடல்நஞ் சுண்ட கருத்தமருங் கொண்ட லெனத்திகழுங் கண்டமும் எண்டோ ளுங் கோல நறுஞ்சடைமேல் வண்ணமுங் கண்குளிரக் கண்டு தொழப்பெறுவ தென்றுகொ லோஅடியேன் கார்வயல் சூழ்கானப் பேருறை காளையையே (With devotees worshipping at his feet, with a bright crescent moon adorning his crown, with the beautiful goddess Uma as part of him, with a body as beautiful as lotus blooms, with a neck stained blue by the poison consumed to save the Devas, the Lord who manifests as the Bull resides at Kanaper surrounded by lush green fields. When would this devotee get the chance to worship Him?) It is located 64 km or 1 hour and 15 minutes east of Madurai and 36 km or 45 minutes south of Karaikudi. We visited in June 2025. We were based in Kanadukathan. Sources: Census of India 1961, Volume IX, Part XI-D, Temples of Madras State, Page 245 Shaivam.com Dinamaar - Temples Thevaaram.org Courtesy Google Maps

  • Temples of Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry #102: Sathyamurthy Perumal Temple, Thirumayam

    சத்தியமூர்த்தி பெருமாள் திருக்கோயில், திருமயம் Situated right beside and a bit east of the Sathyagirisvarar Sivan temple on the same south face of the Sathyagiri Hill, this Vishnu temple is equally ancient. It is a much revered temple and is a Divya Desam temple celebrated in the Naalaayira Divya Prabandham by the Tamil Vaishnava Alwar. It is part of the Thirumayam ASI site and is a protected monument of national importance. Like the Sathyagirisvarar Sivan temple adjacent to it, this is also a cave temple. It was likely excavated at the same time. It also has early Pandiyan and Pallava origins. Utilising a naturally existing cavern on the southern face of the rock, a temple has been carved out. This has been expanded in later centuries with other external structures. Some of the earliest inscriptions here belong to the Mutharaiyar. The Mutharaiyar were minor kings who ruled these borderlands between the Pallava and Pandiyan spheres of influence and preceded the ascent of the imperial Cholas. They periodically switched alliances with the major powers. It is not clear whether the original excavation was done by Pandiyan kings or a Mutharaiyar vassal of the Pallava. The adjoining Sathyagirisvarar Sivan temple, which likely was built at the same time has inscriptions from the time of Pallavan Mahendravarman I in the early 7th century. The oldest inscription here is attributed to Perumbidugu-Perundevi, wife of the first known Mutharaiyar king Sattan, and mother of his son Sattan Maran who were feudatories of the great Pallava emperor Pallavamalla Nandivarman II (CE 731-795). It is found on a slab or balustrade between the two cave temples. It appears to be from the first half of the 8th century. The temple has been renovated by Chola, Later Pandya, Hoysala, Vijayanagar and Nayakkan kings, Suraikudi Chieftains as well as the Sethupathi and Thondaiman rulers. There are about 30 inscriptions in total here and describe contributions from the time of Rajaraja Cholan I, Maravarman Sundarapandiyan II, Jatavarman Veerapandian II, Jatavarman Veerapandian III, Jatavarman Parakramapandiyan, Maravarman Kulasekarapandiyan I and Vijayanagar kings Virupaksha I and Krishnadevaraya. The presiding deity, Lord Vishnu, appears in two forms in two sanctums here. One is Lord Vishnu in a reclining or Ananthasayana posture. He is known as the Pallikonda Perumal or Thirumeyyar. He lies in a bed made of the coils of Adisesha. It is a large idol carved out of the wall of the cave and the Lord lies with his head to the west and feet to the east. The reclining idol of Lord Vishnu is one of the largest idols of its kind in India and is quite impressive. The shrine faces south. There are a number of smaller figures from stories and legends from the puranas, also beautifully carved here. There is another sanctum for Lord Vishnu here, where he is called Sathyamurthy. It is an east facing shrine with a beautiful vimanam. The consort Uyyavantha Thayar has her own east facing shrine. There are also a number of sub shrines for various deities. The temple complex is entered through an elaborately carved 5 tier rajagopuram The long mandapam that you enter after passing the the rajagopuram has ornate pillars with beautiful carvings and most are from the Nayakkan period. The sthalavirutcham or temple tree is the Banyan tree. The theertham is known as the Sathyapushkarani and is situated just to the east of the temple. It is an elaborate octagonal tank of ancient origin. It was renovated in 1919 by Ramanathan Chettiar of Karaikudi. The 10 day festivals of Vaikasi Poornima in May/June and Adi Pooram in July/August are the main celebrations that draw thousands of devotees. Legend says that Adisesha once acted on his own to destroy some evil demons without the Lord's permission and sought repentance here. The Lord not only forgave Adisesha but appreciated him. The hood of Adisesha is subdued here for that reason. The sage Sathyamaharishi is said to have worshipped here. The temple is celebrated in the Naalaayira Divya Prabandham and is thus a Divya Desam temple. Thirumangai Alwar in his mangalasasanam from the 8th century says: மையார் கடலும் மணிவரையும் மாமுகிலும், கொய்யார் குவளையும் காயாவும் போன்றிருண்ட மெய்யானை, மெய்ய மலையானைச் சங்கேந்தும் கையானை, கைதொழா கையல்ல கண்டாமே. (Like the dark and inky sea, and a jewel- studded mountain, like a deep dark cloud, and the beautiful water lily and the ironwood flower, the dark Lord Meyyan resides on the hill of Thirumeyyam holding his conch high. Hands that do not worship this Lord are not hands at all) The temple is located 100 km or 1.5 hours northeast of Madurai, about the same distance and time south of Thiruchirapalli and is close to Pudukkottai. We visited in June 2025. We were based in Kanadukathan. Sources: Dinamalar Temples - Sathyamurthy Perumal Temple Thirumayam - The Land of Truth - Saurabh Saxena, Puratattva.in Nalaayira Divya Prabandham Courtesy Google Maps

  • Temples of Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry #101: Sathyagirisvarar Temple, Thirumayam

    சத்தியகிரீசுவரர் திருக்கோயில், திருமயம் This Sivan temple abuts the adjacent Sathyamoorthy Vishnu temple beside it. In ancient times Thirumayam was called Thirumeiyyam. Mei (மெய்) means truth in Tamil and so does Sathya in Sanskrit. Over time, the name of the place became known as Thirumayam. The temple, like its twin Perumal temple, is a cave temple carved out of the southern face of the Sathyagiri hill which has been a military outpost and fortress since time immemorial. The twin cave temples are thought to have been excavated in the 7th century by Pallava kings. Legend says that the great sage Sathya Maharishi once worshipped here. The fact that the two shrines are carved out of the same rockface symbolises unity and harmony between the two faiths at the time of their initial construction. It has a three tiered, intricately carved rajagopuram followed by kodimaram, balipeedam and Nandi. The excavated cave shrine faces east. There is a large mahamandapam with carved pillars. There is one pillar with a carving of Lord Nataraja which is believed to be one of the oldest depictions of the deity. The cave part of the temple consists of the sanctum and the artha mandapam. The sanctum is a square chamber carved into the western wall of the cave and faces east, flanked by two dvarapalakars. The Lord graces from inside in the form of a lingamoorthy on a circular avudayar, all carved out of the granite bedrock. Opposite the sanctum, carved into the eastern wall of the cave is a large and beautiful Lingothbavar. The consort Venuvanesvari Ambal has a shrine of her own, which also faces east. Venu means bamboo and in ancient times this place is said to have been a Venuvanam or bamboo forest. The original cave was likely excavated by the great Pallava emperor Mahendravarman I (590-630 CE). Some historians attribute the original excavation and development of the twin temple complex to Pandiyan kings. Some contributions are from the Mutharaiyar kings, vassals of the Pallava. Vijayanagar and Nayakkar kings also made their own contributions and the Sethupathy kings of Pudukkottai became the major benefactors after the fall of the Nayakkar. There are many important inscriptions here that not only shed light on the history of this temple, but are also very interesting in many other ways. Some of the earliest inscriptions in this temple are the set of musical inscriptions that have been dated to the 7th century. They are inside the cave shrine on the northern wall. One describes the playing of the parivadinida, a veena like instrument. The other describes musical notes and is similar to other inscriptions from the same era found around this region. It seems identical to the famous inscription at Kudumiyanmalai. These inscriptions have been wilfully mutilated and partially erased. They are in Tamil and Sanskrit in the Pallava Grantha script and dated to the reign of Mahendravarman I. A later inscription dated to 1245 CE, the 7th regnal year of Sundarapandian II, mentions that the above inscription from the 7th century in Pallava Grantha was erased as it was written in an unreadable language. This inscription from the 13th century also describes the settlement of the dispute between the two temples on the division of the property where the temples stand. It is a very involved document that records the members of the public and officials who participated in the presence of one Appanna Dandanaykkar who was an official of the Hoysala kingdom during the reign of Vira Someswara. There are at least two other inscriptions from the same period during the reign of Sundarapandian II in the mid 13th century. There is an inscription dated to 1004 CE, the 19th regnal year of Rajaraja Cholan I and another dated to 1033 CE, the 21st regnal year of his son and successor Rajendra Cholan I. The sthalavirutcham is the bamboo. The theertham is a tank called the Sathyapushkarani. The 10 day Chithirai festival in April/May, the Adi Pooram in July/August, also a 10 day event, and the Thai Poosam in January/ February, are the major festivals that draw thousands of devotees. The twin temples are co-administered by the ASI and the HR and CE. They are protected sites of national importance together with the fort. The temple is located 100 km or 1.5 hours northeast of Madurai, about the same distance and time south of Thiruchirapalli and is close to Pudukkottai. We visited in June 2025. We were based in Kanadukathan. Sources: Dinamalar Temples Thirumayam - The Land of Truth - Saurabh Saxena, Puratattva.in Census of India 1961. Temples of Tamil Nadu IX Part XI-D Volume 2 Page 248 Courtesy Google Maps

  • Temples of Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry #100: Athmanathaswamy Temple, Avudaiyar Koil or Thiruperunthurai

    ஆத்மநாதசுவாமி திருக்கோயில், ஆவுடையார் கோயில் அல்லது திருப்பெருந்துறை Called Thiruperunthurai, Sivapuram and Kokazhi (கோகழி) in ancient times, the Sivan temple here figures very prominently in Tamil Saivite history. It is a very important temple known for its association with the 9th century Tamil Saivite saint Manickavasagar. It is home to great philosophical symbolism as well as intricately beautiful art and architecture. The temple is believed to have been built by Manickavasagar himself. The young Vathavoorar, as Manickavasagar was known in his youth, was on his way to the coast to buy imported horses for the Pandiyan king, Arimarthana Pandiyan. On the way, he fell under the spell of an old man under a Kurunthai tree here. Manickavasagar was the Chief Minister of the king. The old man was none other than the Lord himself in disguise. In awe of his new found guru, Vathavoorar used all the king's money he had brought with him towards building a temple for Lord Sivan instead of buying horses. When the time came to return with the horses, the Lord himself converted a troop of foxes into a team of horses and brought them to Madurai. The temple does not have an idol of the Lord or the goddess. In the sanctum sanctorum, there is only an Avudaiyar or pedestal on which the Sivalingam representing the Lord usually sits. The rest is empty space. Like Chidambaram, here too it is symbolic of the formlessness of the Lord. It is we humans who imagine Him in various forms. This is the reason it is called Avudaiyar Koil. Some sources claim that Avudayar Koil is derived from Aludayar Koil or the place where the Lord made Manickavasagar his servant or slave. Manickavasagar refers to himself thus in his works including the Thiruvasagam. The temple does not have a Nandi, Balipeedam or Kodimaram. It is a south facing temple which is unusual for a Sivan temple. It is perhaps because the Lord was the guru of Manickavasagar here and Dakshinamoorthy, the form of Sivan as the great teacher always faces south. Manickavasagar started composing the Thiruvasagam here, Thus it is celebrated as the birthplace of the Thiruvasagam. It is a temple mentioned many times in the Thiruvasagam and is designated as a Thiruvasagathalam. Manickavasagar's life and contributions are celebrated at this temple and he has a shrine dedicated to him. Since Manickavasagar's time the temple has been rebuilt and renovated many times. The Pandiyan kings made many contributions it looks like. Inscriptional evidence has been erased due to the frequent rebuilding. Much of the architecture seen today is from the Nayakkan era, The sculptural art here is extremely beautiful and thought to be some of the best in the Tamil country. There are also beautiful murals. The kodungai work here is very intricate and looks like wood, although carved out of granite. When English soldiers first came here, the commanding officer insisted that the kodungai was made of wood and ordered one of his men to shoot at it. He wanted to prove that it was wood and not stone. The hole made by that gunshot is still present and can be seen in one of the photos above. Kodungai are the stone rafters that adorn the roof and overhangs of mandapams that resemble woodwork. There are many other examples of fine stone work including intricately carved pillars and murals illustrating episodes from Tamil Saivite history. At 10 acres, it is a fairly large temple with many mandapams. Manickavasagar entreats in his Vaazhaapathu of the Thiruvasagam: பாரொடு விண்ணாய்ப் பரந்த எம் பரனே பற்றுநான் மற்றிலேன் கண்டாய் சீரொடு பொலிவாய் சிவபுரத்தரசே திருப்பெருந்துறையுறை சிவனே ஆரொடு நோகேன் ஆர்க்கெடுத் துரைக்கேன் ஆண்டநீ அருளிலை யானால் வார்கடல் உலகில் வாழ்கிலேன் கண்டாய் வருகஎன்றருள் புரியாயே. (Oh Lord who encompasses the earth and the sky, you who are radiant and are the king of Sivapuram, I know no other bond than with thee, the Sivan of Thiruperunthurai. Lord, if you do not bless me, to whom would I tell and to whom would I complain to? I do not want to live on this earth girdled by vast oceans, if you do not bless me. Please come hither and bless me) The Kurunthai tree is the Sthala Virutcham or temple tree here. The 10 day Aani Thirumanjanam and the Thiruvathirai in December are the major festivals celebrated here. Given the great importance of the temple in so many ways, it needs better maintenance and management. It is of utmost importance that the art and architecture here is preserved. The temple is located about 130 km or 3 hours east of Madurai, about 45 km or 1 hour east of Karaikudi and about 50 km or 1 hour southeast of Pudukkottai. We visited in June 2025. We were based at Kanadukathan. Sources: Shaivam.com: Thiruvasagam 28. Vaazhapathu Dinamalar Temples Census of India 1961. Temples of Tamil Nadu IX Part XI-D Volume 7 Part 1 Page 422 Courtesy Google Maps

  • Temples of Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry #98: Pazhampathinathar Temple, Thiruppunavasal

    பழம்பதிநாதர் திருக்கோயில் திருப்புனவாசல் அல்லது திருப்புனவாயில் Lord Sivan at this ancient temple is known as Pazhampathinathar or Virudhapureeswarar, reflecting the great antiquity of this temple. Pazham means old in Tamil and Viruddha means the same in Sanskrit. The temple lies on the banks of the Pambar river which meets the sea a mere 3 km away and thus the place gets the name Punavasal. Punal means a waterway or river and Vaasal is an entrance and it essentially means a rivermouth. In olden times it could have been closer to the sea. The ancient name is Thiruppunavayil and nowadays it is called Thiruppunavasal. Legends abound given the long history of the site. It is believed that Lord Brahma worshipped Lord Sivan here and consecrated a quadrifaced Chathurmukalingam that appears to have been replaced in later times. They say that this temple predates Thiruvannamalai and thus there is no Lingothbavar in the back koshta, Instead there are idols of Lord Mahavishnu and Anjaneyar, At around 3 acres it is a modest sized temple. It has a 65 feet, 5 tier rajagopuram. It has a massive vimanam that is taller than the rajagopuram which is unusual in the Pandiyan country. It is a special feature here. Situated in the borderlands between the Pandiyan and Chola country, it has architectural elements that are reminiscent of Chola temples. The tall vimanam reminds one of temples like Thanjavur, Thirubuvanam, Gangaikondacholapuram etc. Like the Chola temples of that era, this temple also houses a very large Sivalingam, one of the largest in Tamil Nadu and sits on a very large Avudayar. At 9 feet, it is the 3rd largest lingam after Thanjavur and Gangaikondacholapuram. With a circumference of 82.5feet and a height of 5.5 feet, the avudayar is the largest of its kind. The prakarams outside of the sanctum, and mahamandapam are not covered, giving the temple an open and natural feel. There are many sub shrines including one that houses the five ganeshas and the shrine for the 14 lingams representing all fourteen Paadal Petra Sthalams in the Pandiyan country. There are 4 thalavirutchams each representing the four yugas. They are the Punnai, Chathurkalli, Magizham and Kurundham. The consort Goddess Periyanayaki has a separate east facing shrine. A 11 day festival around Vaikasi Visakam in May/June is celebrated at this temple with much fanfare. With ancient and obscure beginnings, it was already an important Sivan temple in the early 7th and 8th centuries, as both Thirugnanasampanthar and Sundarar have rendered Thevaram pathigams here. There are several sets of inscriptions mostly from the 13th century describing donations to this temple during the reigns of Maravarman Kulasekara Pandiyan I, Jatavarman Sundara Pandyan I and Jatavarman Vira Pandiyan I/II. There is also a 12th century Chola era inscription attributed to Kulothungan I. Some sources mention that Sundara Pandiyan II did extensive renovation work here. This is one of the 276 Paadal Petra Sthalangal that have dedicated pathigams attributed to them. It is the 251st Paadal Petra Sthalam and the 7th in the Pandiyan country. Thirugnanasampanthar and Sundaramoorthy Nayanar have composed pathigams in its praise. Sundarar sings thus: சித்தம் நீநினை என்னொடு சூளறும் வைகலும் மத்த யானையின் ஈருரி போர்த்த மணாளனூர் பத்தர் தாம்பலர் பாடிநின்றாடும் பழம்பதி பொத்தில் ஆந்தைகள் பாட்டறாப் புனவாயிலே. (You my Lord are in my mind always, playing tricks with me and with a massive cloak made of elephant hide around your shoulders, you are the Lord of the Earth and dwell here at this ancient temple at Punavaayil, where your devotees sing and dance, while owls constantly sing from their tree holes) Sampanthar says: மின்னியல் செஞ்சடை வெண்பிறையன்விரி நூலினன் பன்னிய நான்மறை பாடியாடிப்பல வூர்கள்போய் அன்னம்அன் னந்நடை யாளொடும்மம ரும்மிடம் புன்னைநன் மாமலர் பொன்னுதிர்க்கும் புனவாயிலே (My Lord, who has shining red matted locks adorned with the crescent Moon, and who is the source of a wide range of sacred texts, including the four Vedas, and who travelled to many places, singing and dancing, together with his consort the Goddess who walks gracefully beside him like a swan, resides here at Punavaayil where the blossoms of the Punnai tree shed golden pollen) The temple is located about 120 km or 2.5 hours east of Madurai and about 60 km or 1 hour southeast of Karaikudi. We visited in June 2025. We were based in Kanadukathan. Shaivam.com - Sambanthar Thevaram 3.011 Sundarar Thevaram - Panniru Thirumurai Volume XIV Institute Asian Studies, Chennai 2006 Aanmeegam.org Thiruppunavasal South Indian Inscriptions Volume VIII Archeological Survey of India Annual Report 1902/1903 AR 612-616 Credits Google Maps

  • Temples of Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry #97: Adhi Ratneswarar Temple, Thiruvadanai

    ஆதிரத்தினேசுவரர் திருக்கோயில், திருவாடானை The name of this town is pronounced "Thiruvaadaanai" and is more aptly spelled that way often. In Tamil, "Aadu" means goat and "Aanai" means elephant. Legend says that Vaaruni, son of Varuna the God of Rain, once upset a rishi who cursed him to be born as an animal with the head of a goat and the body of an elephant. This strange creature was rid of its curse by worshipping Lord Sivan here. Thus this place came to be known as Aadanai. Some sources claim that it was the sage Bhrigu who was cursed thus and gained his redemption here. The sun being the oldest celestial body in the solar system is known as Aadhi or the beginning. Aadhi also means eternal and the sun is our eternal source of energy. The Sun God had worshipped Lord Sivan here by placing the Lord on a pedestal of jewels and that is why the Lord here is known as the Aadhiratneswarar. Lord Sivan is in the form of a self manifested suyambulingam that appears to be made of a special stone that shines blue at midday when the abhishekam is done. Arjuna, one of the Pancha Pandavas, is said to have been shown how to use the Pasupatha missile by Lord Sivan here. This ancient Sivan temple had early Pandiyan beginnings and has been built upon by many succeeding dynasties. As it is a Paadal Petra Sthalam, it must have existed in some form in the early 7th century. There is inscriptional evidence that the Nayakkan kings of Madurai maintained this temple during their time. The Sethupathy kings of Ramanathapuram and the Nattukottai Chettiar have done great work here during the 19th century. Today, the royal house of the Ramanathapuram Samasthanam and its trust, the Ramanathapuram Devasthanam take an active part in its upkeep. At 10 acres it is a fairly large temple. It faces east. It is surrounded by high, solidly built walls. It has an imposing 9 tier rajagopuram that is visible for miles around. It is around 130 to 140 feet in height. It can be seen from 10 miles away. There is an east-facing separate shrine for Goddess Snehavalli. There is also a Murugan shrine in the temple premises that is quite ancient. Murugan has a single face and only 4 arms. The thalavirutcham is the vilvam tree. There are 6 theerthams here. In ancient times this place is believed to have been a forest of Vilvam trees. With a special connection to the sun, the rays of the sun fall directly on the sanctums of the Lord and Goddess Snehavalli in the Tamil month of Masi. Although there are many regular festivals celebrated here, the Vaikasi Visaka Vasantha Utsavam is the most important and occurs in May/June. It is the 253rd Paadal Petra Stalam and the 9th in the Pandiyan country. Thirugnasampanthar sang thus: மாதோர் கூறுகந்தேற தேறிய ஆதி யானுறைஆடானை போதி னாற்புனைந் தேத்து வார்தமை வாதி யாவினைமாயுமே.  (Bad karma will not affect those who worship, with praise and devotion, the Eternal Lord who resides here at Aadanai astride his bull with this beloved Goddess Uma as part of him. Those bad karma will disappear) The temple is located about 100 km or 2 hours east of Madurai. It is about 42 km or 45 minutes southeast of Karaikudi. We visited in June 2025. We were based in Kanadukathan. Sources: Dinamalar - Adhirathneswarar Temple, Thiruvadanai Census of India 1961, Volume IX, Part XI-D, Temples of Madras State, Page 270 Shaivam.com - Thirugnasampanthar Thevaram 2.112 Credits: Google Maps

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