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சோழநாட்டு நவக்கிரக திருத்தலங்கள் The Navagrahams are 9 celestial entities important in Indian astrology and are venerated in the Hindu belief system. Nava means nine in Sanskrit. Commonly referred to as the nine planets, which the term means in Sanskrit and Tamil, they are not all planets. They include the Sun, the fulcrum of our solar system, the Moon, the Earth's sole satellite, five planets and two points in space that are not physical objects. The five planets are Mars, Mercury, Jupiter, Venus and Saturn. The seven days of the week are named after these 5 planets, the Sun and the Moon in many cultures. They are the visible objects that move independently of the fixed stars in the night sky. In Indian astrology they are known as Suryan (Surya), Chandiran (Chandra), Chevvai (Angakara or Mangala), Budhan, Viazhan (Guru), Velli or Sukkiran (Sukkira) and Sani (Shani) in Tamil with Sanskrit in brackets. The two other entities are not physical bodies but are two points in space. Raahu is the ascending or northern lunar node, the point where the moon's orbit intersects the solar ecliptic on its northern arc. The southern or descending lunar node, or Kethu, is where the moon's orbit coincides with the solar ecliptic on its southern arc. Sometimes referred to as shadow planets, they are linked to the occurrence of eclipses. In ancient Hindu mythology an eclipse was described as a serpent swallowing the Moon or the Sun. As such these two points in space are associated with the divine serpents or cobras Raahu and Kethu respectively. In Indian astrology, the positions of various celestial bodies are believed to be linked to the destiny of all living beings. As such, the movement of these entities vis-à-vis each other often affects the immediate and long term well-being of people, it is believed. The ill effects of these movements of the Navagrahams are often referred as Dhoshams. When astrologers deduce that someone is under the bad influence of a certain celestial entity, they will prescribe a remedial measure. The remedial measures usually involve a certain set of rituals and are often performed at a temple associated with a certain Graham. These prescriptive temples are often referred as Parihara Sthalangal, not to be confused with Parivara Sthalangal. Pariharam means a remedy. Thus various temples came to be associated with various celestial entities. In this context, sets of nine temples have come up in various regions of the Tamil Country and elsewhere called the Navagraha Sthalangal. The temples are ancient in origin and very special in their own right. Their association with individual Grahams are also very old. However the tradition of a pilgrimage to visit the nine temples on a single trip is relatively recent and seems to be a custom popularized in the last two hundred years. The pilgrimage circuit has become quite popular these days. The most well-known set of Navagraham temples is in the Kaveri Delta centred around the sacred city of Kumbakonam in the Chola country. These nine Saivite temples, 8 Sivan temples and one dedicated to Suryan are the focus of this blog post. The others are found in other regions of Tamil Nadu and other states. There is a group around the city of Chennai. There is another couple of sets in the Thirunelvely/Thoothukudi area known as the Navakailayam temples, which are Sivan temples and Nava Thirupathi Temples, which are Vishnu temples. Even within a certain region like the Kaveri Delta, there are often competing sets of Navagraham temples popularized by different astrologers. We will stick with temples of the most accepted pilgrimage circuit. The Navagraham temples in the Kaveri Delta, which are the temples highlighted in this post are found scattered around the Kumbakonam and Mayiladuthurai areas in the Kaveri Delta. They are located around a 70-80 km radius around these two towns which are about 40 km apart. They are Suriyanar Koil which has Lord Suryan or the Sun in the main sanctum, Thingalur, Vaitheeswaran Koil, Thiruvenkadu, Alangudi, Kanjanur, Thirunallar, Thirunageswaram and Keezhaperumpallam. Except for Suriyanar Koil, all the other eight have Lord Sivan in Sivalingam form in the Moolasthanam and the Grahams are in subsidiary shrines. All are ancient temples although some have been extensively renovated in modern times due to their popularity, sometimes obscuring their antiquity. Six of the temples are Paadal Petra Sthalangal. Two are Vaippu Sthalangal. Suriyanar Koil : Called the Sivasuriyaperuman Temple, this temple is dedicated to Lord Suriyan, the Sun and is located quite close to Kumbakonam. Lord Suriyan is the deity in the sanctum sanctorum. Thingalur: The Lord here is known as Kailasanathar and it is the temple associated with Lord Chandran or the Moon. It is a Thevara Vaippu Sthalam, mentioned in the Thevaram without a dedicated pathikam. Vaitheeswaran Koil: This temple associated with Lord Angakaran or Mars, is a Sivan temple and Lord Sivan here is known as Vaitheeswaran or Vaidyanathan. The temple is known for the Naadi Jothidam system of astrology. It is a Paadal Petra Sthalam praised in Thevaram by Thirugnanasambandar and Thirunavukkarasar. Thiruvenkadu: Associated with Lord Budhan or Mercury, this temple is an important one in the Navagraham circuit. Lord Sivan is known as Swetharanyeswarar. Sung in praise by all three of the Moovar, it is a celebrated Paadal Petra Sthalam. Alangudi: Alangudi is where Lord Viyalan or Guru or Jupiter is celebrated. It is close to Kumbakonam. Lord Sivan here is Abathsahayeswarar. This Paadal Petra Sthalam was praised with Thevara Pathigams by Thirunavukkarasar and Thirugnanasampanthar. Kanjanur: The Graham associated with this temple is Lord Sukkiran or Venus. Lord Sivan here is celebrated as Agniswarar. Celebrated by Appar or Thirunavukkarasar with a dedicated pathikam in its praise, this temple is a Paadal Petra Sthalam. Thirunallar: One of the most visited among the Navagraham temples, this is the temple for Lord Sani or Saturn. Due to the perception that to be under the negative influence of Lord Sani can have disastrous consequences, people flock to this temple from many parts. Lord Sivan here is referred to as Dharbaranyeswarar. Praised by all 3 of the Moovar in Thevaram, it is a Paadal Petra Sthalam. Thirunageswaram: Located close to Kumbakonam, this temple is associated with the Graham Lord Raahu. Lord Sivan here is Naganathaswamy. This is an ancient Paadal Petra Sthalam, celebrated with pathikams in the Thevaram by all three of the Moovar. Keezhaperumpallam: This temple is associated with Lord Kethu. Lord Sivan here is also Naganathaswamy. The site finds mention in the Thevaram without a dedicated pathikam and is considered a Thevara Vaippu Sthalam. The best way to visit all nine temples is to spend a few days in the Kumbakonam/ Mayiladuthurai area and visit two or three temples a day which would take 3-4 days to accomplish. You can base yourself in Kumbakonam, Thanjavur, Sirkali or even Tharangambadi. The preferred order is according to the above list. But you would be crisscrossing the area multiple times to achieve that. When short of time and to see all of them in one visit, you might want to cluster them for time efficiency. There is no harm in doing that at all. In which case they could be visited in 2-3 days. You could base yourself in Kumbakonam or a town further east like Tharangambadi or a combination of two towns. It also depends on the kind of accommodation you are are comfortable with. Suggested Itinerary: You will need 2-3 days. We suggest a car and a driver. Base in Kumbakonam initially. Spend the first night there. On Day 1 , start with Suriyanar Koil early in the morning. Then visit Kanjanur which is nearby. On the way back to Kumbakonam visit Thirunageswaram . Have lunch at the hotel. In the afternoon start around 3.30 pm and head to Thingalur . Plan to be there around 4 pm and then head to Alangudi to finish the day. On Day 2, start early in the morning and head to Vaitheeswaran Koil . If you are efficient you can do Thiruvenkadu and Keelaperumpallam also that morning. Then you can head back to the hotel or check in at a hotel in the area such as Tharangambadi or Sirkazhi in the afternoon for the 3rd night stay. On the evening of the second day, you can do Thirunallar and Keelaperumpallam if you had missed it in the morning. If you want to pace yourself a bit more unhurriedly, and see a few more temples in the area, you can extend the trip by a day or two. Of course you can change the order of visits to suit your convenience. The temples are located around a 70-80 km radius of Kumbakonam and Mayiladuthurai which are about 40 km from each other. We visited all of them in a single visit in June 2025. We have visited some of them individually multiple times in the past. We were based in Kumbakonam. Sources; TempleNet, The Navagraha Temple Index ஆன்மீகச் சுற்றுலா வழித்துணைவன்- Aanmeega Sutrula Vazhi Thunaivan (Tamil) -Mevani Gopalan, Narmadha Pathipagam 2007 Temples of South India, Ambujam Anantharaman 2006 Courtesy Google Maps

ஆபத்சகாயேசுவரர் திருக்கோயில், ஆலங்குடி This is the Guru Sthalam in the Navagraham temple circuit. Guru is the Great Teacher and is Jupiter or Viyalan in Indian astrology. The presiding deity is Lord Sivan as Apathsahayeswarar in Sivalingam form. The Dakshinamurthy shrine here stands for Lord Guru. It is a Paadal Petra Sthalam with dedicated pathigams sung in its praise in the early seventh century by the Saiva Kuravar. There are many legends here describing incidents where Lord Sivan came to the aid of people in distress giving him the name Apathsahayeswarar, the Lord who protects us from danger. In ancient times the site was referred to as Thiruvirumpoolai (திருவிரும்பூளை). It is one of the Pancha Aranya Sthalams that are associated with forests. It is a Parivara Sthalam or satellite temple of the Mahalingeswarar temple at Thiruvidaimaruthur. Aalam means poison in Tamil and Kudi means drink. The Lord here, Aalangudiyan, drank the poison that emanated from churning the Ocean of Milk by the Devas and Asuras and thus saved the universe from destruction. The temple is associated with the Saivite saint Sundarar. Once, when Sundarar was traveling in the area, he was caught in a flood and it is said that Lord Sivan himself came in a boat to rescue him. The Sundarar idol here was once smuggled away by a powerful king. One of the priests retrieved it and was discreetly bringing it back wrapped in a blanket, when a guard accosted him. The priest lied that he was carrying his infant child who had small pox. The guard did not investigate further. To this day the idol bears pockmarks. The temple was originally built by Chola kings. It was later renovated by Nayakkan kings in the 16th century. There are 5 sets of inscriptions from the Chola period mainly dealing with financial transactions of the temple. The temple is owned and administered by the HR and CE Department of the Government of Tamil Nadu these days. At around one to two acres in area, it is a modest sized temple. It has two prakarams and a 5 tier rajagopuram that faces south. There is another 5 tier gopuram at the north entrance. The Amman, Elavar Kuzhali is in the first shrine that you encounter as you enter. There is no dedicated shrine for Lord Guru or Jupiter. The Dakshinamurthy shrine is the Guru sannadhi. There are a number of shrines including a special shrine for Lord Vinayagar, the Kalangamatkatha Vinayagar (கலங்காமற்காத்த விநாயகர்). The Sthala Virutcham is the Poolai tree or the Silk Cotton. Once there was a forest of these trees. Sadly none is left today. There are 15 theerthams associated with the temple. The main ones are the Amirtha Pushkarani inside and the Chakra Pushkarani outside. The major festival is the Brahmotsavam in Chithirai (April/May). It is special to worship here on Thursdays. The temple is celebrated in the 7th century Tamil Saivite canon, the Thevaram. It is the 215th Paadal Petra Sthalam and the 98th on the south side of the Kaveri. Thirugnanasampanthar and Thirunavukkarasar rendered the pathigams here. Gnanasampanthar entreats thus: சீரார் கழலே தொழுவீ ரிதுசெப்பீர் வாரார்முலைமங்கையொடும்முடனாகி ஏரா ரிரும்பூளையிடங் கொண்டஈசன் காரார் கடல்நஞ் சமுதுண்ட கருத்தே (Oh, thee great people who worship here at my Lord's feet, tell me why did my Lord who resides here at beautiful Irumpoolai with the attractive lady Uma, drink the poison that came out of that dark ocean, tell me why) Thevaram 2.036 The temple is located 100 km or 1.5 hours east of Thiruchirapalli and 150 km or 3 hours south of Pondicherry. It is about 20 km or 30 minutes south of Kumbakonam and 40 km or an hour east of Thanjavur. We visited in June 2025. We were based in Kumbakonam. Sources: Dinamalar Temples - Aabathsahayeswarar Temple Alangudi N. Chockalingam 1971, Census of India 1961. Volume IX. Part XI -D. Temples of Tamil Nadu: Thanjavur Pages 256-258 Thevaram Shaivam.org Courtesy Google Maps

The southernmost part of the state of Tamil Nadu and India itself was the domain of the ancient Pandiyan dynasty. They ruled with Madurai as their capital and two great rivers, the Vaigai and the Thamirabarani watered their lands. With the ocean to the east and south and the Western Ghats to the west, their territory bordered the Kongu lands to the northwest and the Cholanadu to the northeast. In the Sangam period the ancient Pandiyan kings were the patrons of the Thamil Sangams, assemblies of poets and bards who created the corpus of Tamil literary works often referred to as the Sangam literature. One time ardent Buddhists and Jains, the Pandiyan kings were converted back to Saivism in the 7th century by Thirugnanasampanthar and Queen Mangayarkarasi who is also one of the 63 nayanmar. The kings rebuilt and embellished many Saivite sites and the nayanmar sang in praise of them. When the deeply Saivite Cholas took control of the Pandiyan lands in the mid to late 10th century, they patronised these ancient Sivan temples and expanded them further. Many temples which were built of brick, wood and stucco, were rebuilt in granite stone. Their contributions are still visible in these temples. Tall gopurams and mandapams were added during Vijayanagar and Nayakkan times. Of the Saivite sites in the Pandiyan country, the 14 Paadal Petra Sthalangal are preeminent temples. These temples have been praised in verse by the moovar, Thirugnanasampanthar, Thirunavukkarasar and Sundarar, whose works comprise the thevaram. They are spread across the Pandiyan land. The 14 temples are Meenakshiamman - Sundareswarar Temple in Madurai, Ramanathaswamy Temple in Rameshwaram, Thiruparankundram, Nellaiappar Temple at Thirunelveli, Kutralanathar Temple at Thirukutralam, Thirumeninathar or Bhoominathar Temple at Thiruchuli, Pushpavaneswarar Temple at Thirupuvanam, Edaganathar Temple at Thiruvedagam, Aappudaiyar Temple at Thiruappanur, Kodunkundranathar Temple at Thirukodunkundram, Adhirathineswarar Temple at Thiruvadanai, Thiruthalinathar Temple at Thirupathur, Sornakaleeswarar Temple Kalayarkoil and Pazhampathinathar Temple at Thirupunavasal. Meenakshi -Sundareswarar Temple at Madurai: Located in the heart of the ancient city of Madurai, this massive temple is popular among devotees and tourists. It was known as Thiru Alavai in ancient times. Destroyed during the raids of the Delhi Sultanate, it was rebuilt by the Nayakkar kings in its current form in the late 16th century. With its 14 towering gopurams and 33, 000 intricate sculptures, it is an architectural marvel. Thirugnanasampanthar and Thirunavukkarasar rendered the pathikams here. Ramanathaswamy Temple at Rameswaram : One of the most revered Sivan temples in India, it is one of the 12 Jyotirlinga Sthalams and the only one in the Tamil country. It is a popular pilgrimage site and millions of people from all over India visit here every year. Praised in sacred hymns of the thevaram by all three of the moovar, Appar (Thirunavukkarasar), Sampanthar (Thirugnanasampanthar) and Sundarar (Sundaramoorthy Nayanar, it is a much celebrated temple. Thiruparankundram Temple: This temple is situated in the southern part of Madurai and is an ancient cave temple. The entire hill of Thiruparankundram is considered sacred. The temple is also celebrated as one of the 6 Padai Veedu of Lord Murugan. This is considered as the 3rd Paadal Petra Sthalam in the Pandiya Nadu. Sampanthar rendered the pathikam here. Nellaiappar Temple at Thirunelveli: The temple is found in the southern town of Thirunelveli. Once a secondary seat of power for the ancient Pandiyan kings. It was a town where they stabilized for a period after their rout by the forces of the Delhi Sultanate in the 14th century. It is celebrated as one of the 5 Pancha Sabai temples. It is the Thamira sabai or the Hall of Copper. It has thevaram pathigams from all three of the moovar, Appar, Sampanthar and Sundarar. Kutralanathar Temple at Thirukutralam: Tucked away on the eastern slopes of the southern part of the Western Ghats with a waterfalls by its side, is this ancient temple to Lord Sivan. It is northwest of Thirunelveli. It is the Chithira Sabai or Hall of Paintings of the Pancha Sabai. The temple of murals and paintings is a separate structure away from and up the hill from the temple proper. Sampanthar composed the pathikam for this temple. Thirumeninathar or Bhoominathar Temple at Thiruchuli: Located southeast of Madurai, it is a large and beautiful temple. It is often spelled as Tiruchuzhi. Originally built by the Pandiyan kings, it has been embellished by the dynasties that have followed. In modern times, Swami Vivekananda spent 3 days here during his yatra of the south. It is the 12th Paadal Petra Sthalam in the Pandiya Nadu. Sundarar rendered the pathigam here. Edaganathar Temple at Thiruvedagam: Very close to Madurai and just northwest of the city is this ancient Paadal Petra Sthalam that is closely associated with saint Thirugnasampanthar. In the 7th century he won a debate with Jain monks by making his Edu (palm leaf book) float against the stream on the Vaigai River here. Sampanthar dedicated a pathigam for this temple. Appar mentions it in the Kaappu Thiruthandagam. Pushpavaneswarar Temple at Thirupuvanam: Located very close to Madurai and just east of it, this is a Paadal Petra Sthalam of great antiquity. This is where Sampanthar saw thousands of sivalingams in the sand and did not want to step on it. All three of the moovar, Appar, Sampanthar and Sundarar have praised this temple in thevaram. It is the 10th Paadal Petra Stalam in Pandiya Nadu. Aappudaiyar Temple at Thiruvappanur: This temple is found in the Sellur neighbourhood of Madurai. It is an ancient temple and is a Paadal Petra Sthalam. Legend says that a king once borrowed a wedge or Aappu from a woodcutter, to serve as a sivalingam for his worship. The Aappu would not move and a temple had to be built around it. Sampanthar composed the pathigam here. It is the 2nd Paadal Petra Sthalam in the Pandiyan country. Kodunkundranathar Temple at Thrukodunkundram: Set against the base of the ancient and sacred Piranmalai, this temple is northeast of Madurai and southwest of Tiruchirapalli at about the same distance from both cities. The legend of Paari Vallal, the king who gave up his chariot for a wild jasmine creeper, is associated with this temple. Sampanthar rendered the sacred thevaram for this temple. It is the 5th Paadal Petra Sthalam in the Pandiyan country. Adhirathineswarar Temple at Thiruvadanai: East of Madurai and almost at the coast, this ancient temple is a celebrated sivasthalam. The name comes from the legend that the son of Varuna was cursed to be born as an animal with the body of an elephant and the head of a goat. He was rid of this curse here. Sampanthar sang the pathikam for this temple. It is the 9th Paadal Petra Sthalam in Pandiya Nadu. Thiruthalinathar Temple at Thirupathur: This large and beautiful temple is northeast of Madurai and close to Karaikudi. It is sometimes referred to as Thiruputhur. It Is a large temple with 3 prakarams. The Bhairavar here is unusual in that he is in a sitting posture and is referred to as the Yoga Bhairavar. It is the 6th Paadal Petra Sthalam in the Pandiya Nadu. Sampanthar and Appar have dedicated pathigams in honour of this ancient temple. Sornakaleeswarar Temple Kalayarkoil: Located east of Madurai and close to Karaikudi. this is a storied and ancient temple. Closely linked to the Marudu brothers who played a pivotal role during the Polygar Wars of the late 18th century, it is drenched in Tamil Nadu history. Sampanthar and Sundarar sang in praise of this temple. It is the 10th Paadal Petra Sthalam in the Pandiyan land. Pazhampathinathar Temple at Thirupunavasal: East of Madurai on the eastern coast, this temple is situated at the mouth of the Pambar River. Thus it is called Punavasal or the temple at the river mouth. Its antiquity is reflected in the name of Lord Sivan here, Pazhampathinathar or the Ancient Lord. There is a shrine in the outer prakaram that houses 14 sivalingams, representing all 14 Paadal Petra Sthalangal in Pandiya Nadu. It is the 7th Paadal Petra Sthalam of the fourteen. Sampanthar and Sundarar were the authors of the pathigams here. Suggested itinerary: If you want to visit all 14 temples in a single trip ,you will need at least 7-8 days. You will need a car and a driver. We suggest starting with Madurai Meenakshiamman on the morning of Day 1. Thiruparankundram can be seen in the evening. You can see Thiruvappanur , Thirupuvanam and Thiruvedagam on Day 2 based in Madurai. On the morning of Day 3 you can head to Rameswaram early in the morning and stop at Thiruchuli on the way. You can arrive in Rameswaram for a late lunch. That evening you can take a break from temples and visit Danushkodi or another site. Stay at Rameswaram for the night. You can start Day 4 with an early morning visit to to the Ramanathaswamy Temple . Spend the morning at the temple and return to the hotel for lunch. After lunch set out for Thirunelveli. Plan to arrive around 4 pm. Check into the hotel quickly and you may be able to visit Nellaiappar in the evening. Go to Kutralam early in the morning of Day 5. It is at least a 1.5 hour drive from Thirunelveli and you have to leave early to return to the hotel in Thirunelveli for lunch. After lunch, leave for Madurai and arrive in Madurai for dinner and stay overnight. On the morning of Day 6 , visit Thirukodunkundram at Piranmalai on the way to a hotel in the Karaikudi area for lunch and check in. In the evening, visit Thirupathur . The next day, Day7 , you can visit Kalayarkoil and Thiruvadanai in the morning and Thirupunavasal in the evening. Return to hotel in the Karaikudi area for the night. You can add a couple of days if you want do this at a more leisurely pace or if you want to incorporate other temples or sites . Sources: Shiva Temples of Tamil Nadu shivatemples.com 276 Shiva Temple - Thevaram Thiruthalangal aanmeegam.org Courtesy Google Maps Madurai and vicinity

கைலாசாதர் அல்லது சந்திரனார் திருக்கோயில், திங்களூர் This popular Sivan temple near Thanjavur is the Navagraham temple associated with Lord Chandran or the Moon. Thingal means the moon in Tamil and Oor is a village. Thus Thingalur is the village of the Moon. The temple is in a rural setting on the eastern edge of the hamlet. Lord Sivan as Kailasanathar presides in majestic Sivalingam form in the sanctum. There is a special sanctum for Lord Chandran which is much revered, The contemporary significance of the temple stems from its place as the Moon temple in the Navagraham temple circuit. It is visited by many to mitigate the negative influence of Lord Chandran in their lives and has become an important stop on the Navagraham pilgrimage route. It is mentioned in passing in the 7th century Thevaram canon and is thus classified as a Thevara Vaippu Sthalam. Although Thirunavukkarasar visited here and composed a pathigam, the pathigam does not mention the Lord here by name. Hence, it is not classified as a Paadal Petra Sthalam. There is a legend here that is associated with Apputhi Adigal and Thirunavukkarasar. Apputhi Adigal was a merchant in this village in the early seventh century and is among the 63 revered Tamil Saivite saints, the Nayanmar. He was a pious Saivite and a great admirer of Thirunavukkarasar. He once invited Appar to his home for a meal. In fervent anticipation of the great saint's visit, Apputhi Adigal sent his son to the garden to fetch a plantain leaf. There the young boy was bitten by a snake and fell unconscious. When Appar reached the house the boy was near death. Appar appealed to the Lord here and composed a pathigam and the young child miraculously revived and recovered. Even today, people in the surrounding villages rush to this temple when someone gets bitten by a snake. The temple is adorned with a 3 tier rajagopuram, which has been built recently. There are two prakarams. The sanctum faces east. Lord Chandran has a shrine facing southeast. The temple is so designed that in the months Purattasi (September/October) and Panguni (March/April) , during the 3 days spanning the Pournami or Full Moon, the rays of the rising moon fall in the sanctum. The Thaayaar Periyanayaki Amman has her own shrine. With recent renovations and a fresh coat of paint, the temple looks resplendent these days. The vimanams and sannidhis have been reconstructed in modern times. The temple is tastefully landscaped. The core of the temple is clearly of Chola origin. It was renovated in the Nayakkan era in the 16th century. It has undergone extensive renovations in modern times giving it a brand new look. Although I am not a fan of complete or near complete renovations, as they tend to destroy irreplaceable historical features such as inscriptions and the finer archeological elements, I have to admit the renovations here have been done well. Sometimes preservation of the site is better than total decay and loss. The temple is controlled and administered by the HR and CE Department of the Government of Tamil Nadu these days. The temple is popular for the ritual associated with the first feeding of rice to an infant. Villagers bring their infants to this temple for this important ritual called the Annaprasanam. It is considered auspicious to visit the temple on a Monday. The sthalavirutcham is the Vilvam The main theertham is the Chandra Pushkarani. There are 4 main festivals, Mahasivairathri in Maasi (February/March), Margazhi Thiruvadhirai (December/January), Panguni Uthiram (March/April) and Thirukarthigai ( November/December). Although not a Paadal Petra Sthalam, as the Lord here is not praised in Thevaram, Appar visited here and composed a pathigam in the early seventh century. It is classified as a Thevara Vaippu Sthalam. The pathikam composed by Thirunavukkarasar is called the Vidam Theertha Pathigam (the pathigam that cured the poison) : ஒன்றுகொலாமவர் சிந்தை யுயர்வரை ஒன்றுகொலாமுய ரும்மதி சூடுவர் ஒன்றுகொலாமிடு வெண்டலை கையது ஒன்றுகொலாமவர் ஊர்வது தானே (Lord Sivan has many attributes: one, his mind is as high as a tall mountain, one is the bright crescent he wears on his head, one is the white skull that he carries in his hand, one is that he resides in this village) Thevaram 4.018 The temple is located 60 km or 1.5 hours east of Tiruchirapalli and 170 km or 3.5 hours southeast of Pondicherry. It is 16m or 30 minutes north of Thanjavur and 35 km or 1 hour west of Kumbakonam. We visited in June 2025. We were based in Kumbakonam. Sources: Dinamalar Temples - Kailasanathar Temple Thingalur N. Chockalingam 1971, Census of India 1961. Volume IX. Part XI -D. Temples of Tamil Nadu: Thanjavur Page 309 Thevaram Shaivam.org Periyapuranam 5,5 Sekkizhar. 12th century. Apputhi Adigal Puranam verses 1788-1832 Courtesy Google Maps

சிவசூரியபெருமான் திருக்கோயில், சூரியனார் கோயில் Called the Sivasuriya Peruman Koil, this popular temple is one of the Navagraham temples. The Navagrahams are nine celestial bodies or points in space celebrated in Hindu or Sanatana belief systems. They are commonly referred to as the nine planets which is not accurate. A trip to all Navagraham temples is a common pilgrimage for many. This temple is for the Sun God on whose bounty all life on planet earth exists. There are only a few temples in India dedicated to the Sun, like the Sun Temple at Konarak, Odisha or the the one in Modhera, Gujarat. Here in the Tamil country, this small temple also honours the Sun. Although there is a shrine for the Sun in many Saivite temples, a dedicated temple is rare. Here, images of Lord Sun and his consorts Usha Devi and Pratyusha Devi, grace the sanctum instead of Lord Sivan. It is the only temple of the nine Navagraham temples where Lord Sivan is not the presiding deity. There are separate shrines for all the other eight Navagrahams here, which is also unique. Legend says that the Navagraham deities were rid of a curse by Lord Sivan and were given permission to grant boons to devotees independently here at this holy site. The antiquity of the temple is unclear. Sangam literature mentions a Sun Temple at Uchikizhan Kottam in Poompuhar which was destroyed by a massive tsunami. So the worship of the Sun and building temples to it are ancient practices. The Suriyanar Koil is the only one that has survived. The earliest structures here are from the time of Kulothunga Cholan I (1066-1118). An inscription from that time refers to the temple as Kulothunga Chola Marthandalaya. It is said that his interest in the temple was influenced by his allies, the Gahadavala dynasty of Kanauj who were ardent worshippers of the Sun. The temple was also extensively renovated by the Vijayanagar kings. There is an inscription from the time of the Vijayanagar emperor Krishnadevaraya, mentioning important endowments. The temple faces west. It has a three tiered rajagopuram and is enclosed by a granite walled rectangular compound. At 2 acres in area, it is a relatively small temple. There is a tank or theertham to the left or north as you enter. It is called the Suyra Theertham. The Kol Theertha Vinayagar shrine here is very auspicious. The vimanam is designed like a chariot, symbolizing the belief that Lord Sun traverses the cosmos on a chariot drawn by seven horses. There are statuettes of horses on the vimanam. The shrine for Lord Guru is right opposite the main sanctum and is said to cool down the heat emanating from Lord Surya. The other seven Navagraham shrines are spread around the compound, all facing Suryanar. The temple has unique and elaborate worship rituals. It is customary to visit the nearby Paadal Petra Sthalam at Thirumangalakudi before visiting here. The order of worship is peculiar. Most devotees will turn left or northwards as you enter the through the rajagopuram. They will either dip in the theertham or sprinkle water from it on their heads before turning southwards to worship Lord Kol Theertha Vinayagar. They then will visit the Sabanayagar mandapam to see the Utsava moorthy before proceeding to the main mandapam to worship Lord Sivan as Kasi Viswanathar. Subsequently, they will enter the mahamandapam to pay homage to Lord Guru before worshipping Suryanar in the sanctum sanctorum. They then will go on to worship the other Navagraham deities in a particular order. The circumambulation is done nine times. The sthala virutcham is the Vellerukku tree. The theertham is Surya Theertham. The major festival is the Rathasapthami which is a ten day festival in the Tamil month of Thai (January/February) which marks the beginning of the Utharayanam. It symbolizes the beginning of the Sun God's journey north. The temple is administered by the HR and CE. Photography was difficult given the ongoing renovations. There was a lot of scaffolding covering the major elements. The renovations seem tacky compared to the elegant ancient core of the temple, a common result of renovations. The temple is located about 100 km or 2 hours east of Thiruchirapalli, 55 km or 1 hour east of Thanjavur and close to Kumbakonam. We visited in June 2025. We were based in Kumbakonam. Sources: Dinamalar Temples TempleNet-Surynaar Koil N. Chockalingam 1971, Census of India 1961. Volume IX. Part XI -D. Temples of Tamil Nadu Page 158. Courtesy Google Maps

உமாமகேசுவரர் திருக்கோயில் கோனேரிராஜபுரம் அல்லது திருநல்லம் This quiet Sivan temple in the Chola heartland is packed with historical and religious significance. A Paadal Petra Sthalam, it was an important Sivasthalam much before the ascent of the Imperial Cholas. But its significance also stems from its association with Sembiyan Mahadevi, Chola queen and temple builder par excellence. The village used to be called Thirunallam in ancient times. Konerirajapuram is a name that was given in later eras. The temple is often referred to as the Natarajar temple because of the massive bronze of Lord Nataraja here. Commissioned by Sembiyan Mahadevi, it is one of the oldest Nataraja idols this deep in the Chola country. Umamaheswarar is a compound of Uma and Maheswarar, symbolising the unity of the feminine and masculine, Shakthi and Sivan in Saivite Hindu belief systems. Legends say that when the Nataraja idol was first commissioned, the sculptor struggled to get it to perfection. He was a devoted believer in Lord Sivan. One day he was deeply engrossed in his work when an old couple approached him and asked for some water to drink. The annoyed sculptor told them that he did not have any water but only had molten metal. They asked whether they could drink it and before the sculptor could react, they had both drunk it. And, lo and behold, they turned into beautiful idols of Lord Nataraja and Goddess Sivakami. When the king visited the next day, he did not believe the tale and struck the idol with his sword and to his terror, the idol bled. The mark of the sword is still there. Thus, the sculpture is believed to be of divine origin and not man-made. It is said that when King Gandaradityan and his young bride Sembian Mahadevi visited the Natarajar temple in the Thillai forest for the first time, the young princess was so taken up by the idol that she wanted the same idol close to home. Thus the Natarajar bronze came to be installed here at Thirunallam when she became a powerful queen in later years. The temple is an example of early Chola architecture. Although added to in later eras, it has retained its Chola character. Sembiyan Mahadevi made extensive renovations here in memory of her husband, the king who became an acetic, Gandaraditya Cholan, after his death in the mid 10th century. Present in the 7th century as a brick structure, it was entirely rebuilt by Sembiyan Mahadevi into a granite building. It was reconsecrated in 973. There are a number of valuable inscriptions dated to the periods of Gangaraditya Cholan, Uthama Cholan, Rajaraja Cholan I, Rajendra Cholan I, Rajadhiraja Cholan I, Rajendra Cholan II, Kulothunga Cholan I, Kulothunga Cholan III, Rajaraja Cholan II and Rajaraja Cholan III. These inscriptions describe donations and contributions towards the upkeep of the temple by various benefactors over the centuries. The temple was also extensively renovated by Vijayanagar rulers in the 15th and 16th centuries. The temple is facing west which is unusual. West facing temples are rare. Most temples face east with very few facing other directions. There is no rajagopuram. There is a 3 tier, second level gopuram. There are two prakarams. The square shaped Karuvarai has 4 pillars supporting it, representing the 4 Vedas. It is topped by a beautiful vimanam that is 8 sided and curvilinear and is of an Ashtadwarapala design. It is not part of the initial construction and is a later addition, perhaps installed during Vijayanagar times. The sanctum is occupied by the presiding deity, Lord Umamaheswarar in Sivalingam form. The idol is 4.5 feet tall. On the southern, inner wall of the prakaram, there is a 10th century bas-relef sculpture of Gandaraditya Cholan and Sembiyan Mahadevi with a set of inscriptions below it. They mention that Queen Sembiyan Mahadevi renovated the temple in memory of her husband. The back koshtam has a Lingothbavar flanked by Lord Vishnu and Lord Brahma, representing the trinity and is also unusual. The famous, large Nataraja bronze is housed in a shrine of its own in the prakaram to the left of the sanctum as you face it. It is 8.5 feet tall and 5.5 feet in width. There is a beautiful bronze of Goddess Sivagami beside it. The temple is known for its large collection of exquisite Chola bronzes. The Amman, Angavalanayaki or Mangalanayaki has her own elaborate shrine facing east in the outer prakaram. This is the 151st Paadal Petra Sthalam and the 34th on the south side of the Kaveri River. Thirugnasampanthar and Thirunavukkarasar visited here and rendered Thevaram pathigams. Thirugnanasampanthar extols thus: கல்லால் நிழல்மேய கறைசேர் கண்டாவென் றெல்லா மொழியாலும் இமையோர் தொழுதேத்த வில்லால் அரண்மூன்றும் வெந்து விழவெய்த நல்லான் நமையாள்வான் நல்லம் நகரானே (The celestial beings worship and praise Him in all the languages known, as the one who teaches under the Kallala banyan tree and has a stain on his throat. He burnt and destroyed the 3 fortresses of the Asuras with his bow and arrow, He is good and he rules over us. He dwells here at Nallam) Thevaram 1.085 The sthalavirutchams are the Arasamaram (Peepal tree or Sacred Fig) and the Vilvam. There are two. The Vilvam here strangely has 13 leaves to every stem. Of the four theerthams associated with the temple, the large and beautiful Sakthi Theertham is found just outside the temple complex. The Saneeswarar shrine here is very special and the idol is clothed in white garments and not black as it is customary elsewhere. There are two Brahmotsavams, The Vaikasi Visakam in May/June and the Margazhi Thiruvadhirai in December/January. The Vaikasi Visakam festival is the more important one, when hundreds of devotees from surrounding villages congregate with much fervour. The temple is located about 120 km or 2 hours east of Thiruchirapalli and 150 km or 3 hours south of Pondicherry. It is 22 km or 30 minutes east of Kumbakonam and 30 km or 1 hour southwest of Mayiladuthurai. We visited in June 2025. We were based in Kumbakonam Sources: Dinamalar Temples - Uma Maheswarar Temple, Konerirajapuram N. Chockalingam 1971, Census of India 1961. Volume IX. Part XI -D. Temples of Tamil Nadu: Thanjavur Pages 71-72 Thevaram Shaivam.org Anirudh Kanisetti, Lords of Earth and Sea - A History of the Chola Empire. Pages 43-53 Courtesy Google Maps

மேகநாதர் அல்லது லலிதாம்பிகை திருக்கோயில், திருமீயச்சூர் This fairly small but beautiful Sivan temple is a twin Paadal Petra Sthalam. There are two Sivan shrines here that have been celebrated with Thevaram pathigams. The main or presiding deity is Mehanadhar in the form of a Sivalingam. There is also another Sivan sannidhi at this temple which is known as the Ilamkoyil (இளம் கோயில்) and the Lord there is Sakalabhuvaneswarar. Both Sivan shrines have dedicated pathigams of their own, making them both Paadal Petra Sthalams in their own right. But the temple is most popular because of the Ambigai's shrine here where she is known as Lalithambigai. She sits with her right leg crossed at the knee on the Sri Chakra Simmasanam as a seat. This is known as the Manonmani form of the Goddess. Mehanathar is sometimes referred to as Mihara Aruneswarar or Muyarchinathar. The temple celebrates the grand victory of the Goddess over the evil Asuran Pandasuran. To achieve this, she took on a fierce form and came here to be pacified and regain her composed and benevolent usual self. The Lalitha Sahasranamam which is an ancient composition celebrating the Goddess by a thousand different names is said to have originated here. It is believed that the Lalitha Sahasranamam was imparted to Sage Agasthya by the Sage Hayagriva. In modern times, there is a story of an ardent devotee of Ambigai who was living in Bangalore. One day, in 1999, she had a dream of an idol of the Goddess which was missing an anklet. After a bit of research she found out the idol at this temple was missing an anklet. She made one out of gold and came here and was surprised that the likeness of the idol was identical to the one in her dream. When she presented the anklet to the priest, he told her that there was no room for the anklet to go around the idol's ankle. But miraculously, when he tried it, there indeed was a small passage for the anklet to go around and it fit perfectly. The temple is also associated with the Sun and his charioteer Arunan. Legends say that once the Sun was mean to Arunan and was smitten by a curse which made the Sun lose his light and glow. He regained his brilliance by doing penance to Lord Sivan here. The temple is so designed that the Sun's rays fall in the sanctum from the 21st to the 27th day of the month of Chithirai in April/May. It is believed that once, one of the wives of Sage Kashyapa wished for a child and prayed to the Lord and was blessed with a twin pregnancy, One of the infants was born prematurely and had a disability. His legs were deformed. The distraught mother and her son prayed to the Lord with much devotion at this temple and Lord Sivan made Arunan the charioteer of the Sun. It is an ancient Chola temple with later Vijayanagar and Nayakkan expansions. It is said that Rajendra Cholan I, Kundhavai and Sembiyan Mahadevi all contributed to its renovation. As a Paadal Petra Sthalam, it was already an established temple in the early 7th century. The temple has a 5 tier rajagopuram and is east facing. There is a 3-tier secondary gopuram. It is a compact temple at around 2 acres in area enclosed by granite walls in a rectangular form. The shrine of Lalithambigai is to the right as you enter through the rajagopuram. The sanctum of Mehanathar has a beautiful Gaja Prishta vimanam or Thoonganai Maadam with 3 kalasams. The Thoonganai Maadam is shaped like the back of an elephant and is commonly found in Chola era temples of the Thondai Nadu and is less common in the Chola heartland. This one is beautiful. The back koshta idol is a Lingothbavar and together with Brahma in the side koshtam and Perumal in the back koshtam of the Ilamkoyil, you can worship all three Gods of the Hindu trinity at the same time if you stand at the back of the temple. The Kshetra Puraneswarar idol, which is one of the koshtam idols, is very special. It is an idol of Lord Sivan and Parvati in standing posture with the Lord's hand resting on Uma's shoulder trying to pacify her. Depending on the angle from which you look at her, the Amman's face looks either peaceful or angry. The Ilamkoyil with Sakalabhuvaneswarar in the sanctum is adjacent to the sanctum of Mehanathar slightly to the north of it. There are two sthalavirutchams, the Mantharai and the Vilvam. The primary theertham is called Surya Pushkarani. The main festival is the Rathasapthami in the Tamil month of Thai in January and February. People worship Devi Lalithambigai here for prosperity in their lives, As in most temples where the Goddess is given preeminence, it is customary to worship at her shrine before proceeding to the moolasthanam. This is the 173rd Paadal Petra Sthalam and the 56th on the southern bank of the Kaveri River. Thirugnanasampanthar sang the pathigam for Meganathar and Thirunavukkarasar composed the pathigam for the Ilamkoyil. Thirugnanasampanthar about the Mehanathar: காயச் செவ்விக் காமற் காய்ந்து கங்கையைப் பாயப் படர்புன் சடையிற் பதித்த பரமேட்டி மாயச் சூர்அன் றறுத்தமைந்தன் தாதைதன் மீயச் சூரே தொழுது வினையை வீட்டுமே (He burned Manmathan with the fire from his third eye. He has the cascading River Ganga flowing through his matted hair. My supreme Lord is the father of Lord Murugan who slew the demon Surapadman. Those who worship the Lord here at Meeyachur will rid themselves of their karma and attain mukthi) Thevaram 2.062 Thirunavukkarasar on the Ilamkoyil: தோற்றுங் கோயிலுந் தோன்றிய கோயிலும் வேற்றுக் கோயில் பலவுள மீயச்சூர்க் கூற்றம் பாய்ந்த குளிர்புன் சடையாற் கேற்றங் கோயில்கண் டீரிளங் கோயிலே (There have been temples, there will be temples, and there are many other temples in Meeyachur but the one that is the most desirable one for my Lord who kicked Yaman and who has cooling matted hair on his scalp, is the Ilamkoyil) Thevaram 5.011 The temple is located 130 km or 3 hours east of Thiruchirapalli and the same distance and driving time south of Pondicherry. It is 32 km or an hour west of Tharangambadi and about the same distance east of Kumbakonam. We visited in June 2025. We were based in Kumbakonam. Sources: Dinamalar Temples - Mehanadhar Temple N. Chockalingam 1971, Census of India 1961. Volume IX. Part XI -D. Temples of Tamil Nadu: Thanjavur Page 251 Thevaram Shaivam.org Courtesy Google Maps

தர்பாரண்யேசுவரர் அல்லது சனீசுவரர் திரு க் கோயில், திருநள்ளாறு This Navagraham temple associated with Lord Saneeswarar or Saturn is very popular on the Navagraham pilgrimage circuit. People fear and respect Lord Sani's influence on their lives. The position and movement of Lord Saturn vis-à-vis one's Zodiac sign often brings about negative outcomes. People come here to nullify those negative effects. The temple is a Sivan temple and is an ancient Paadal Petra Sthalam. Lord Sivan presides here as Dharbaranyeswarar in a Sivalingam form. In ancient times, this area was a forest of Dharbai grass giving the Lord and the temple their names. There is a separate shrine for Lord Sani and it is customary to worship him before proceeding to the sanctum to worship Lord Sivan. The temple is also a Saptha Vidanga Sthalam. It is one of the seven temples that are the most important in the Thiagarajar worship tradition. Thiagarajar worship is the iconology that gives preeminence to Lord Sivan in the Somaskandar form. Iconographically the Somaskandar is the form where Lord Sivan is in a sitting posture with his left leg bent across at the knee, with Parvati sitting at his left and the child Murugan between them. The Thiagarajar is the Utchavar here. This temple is actually situated in the Union Territory of Puducherry or Pondicherry. What is not known to many outsiders, is that there are pockets of territory administered by the Union Territory that are away from the city of Pondicherry and within the Tamil Nadu borders. It is a result of the French colonial holdings in the area. Karaikkal is one such district in the Kaveri Delta. It is close to Mayiladuthurai and Nagapattinam. The area is rich in Tamil history and temples. Legends say that King Nalan of Nishadha, who was married to the beautiful princess Damayanthi, went through untold misery and loss due to the negative influence of Lord Sani. He worshipped Lord Saneeswaran here at this holy site and was eventually relieved of his bad fortune and regained his kingdom, wealth and family back. Thus the place came to be known as Nallar. Others believe that the place got its name because the Kaveri divides into many small rivers like Arasalaru, Noolaru and Vanchiyaru around here in the Kaveri Delta. The temple got its name because it is situated amidst these rivers. "Nal" means middle and "Aru" means river in Tamil. There are many stories of people getting relief from negative influences in their lives here, making a pilgrimage to this temple very popular. With an imposing 7 tier rajagopuram and containing numerous shrines ,it is an east-facing temple. It is about 2 acres in area and not very large. The presiding deity is Lord Sivan as a suyambulingam in the sanctum. He is known as Dharbaranyeswarar or Nallarar. The consort is Goddess Praneswari or Pranambigai and has her own shrine. To the left of the sanctum (to your right as you enter) is the shrine for Lord Saneeswarar. It is customary to worship there first. He is the gatekeeper. It is an east-facing shrine unlike at other temples where Lord Sani faces south. The resplendent idol of Saneeswarar has only two hands here as opposed to four usually. There are no shrines for the other Navagrahams here. The balipeedam, peculiarly is not in a straight line with other main elements, but is off to a side. In the prakaram, at the end of the gallery of the idols of the 63 Nayanmar, there is a small shrine for KIng Nalan. There is a set of 3 sculpted figures in the western inner prakaram, one of which is believed to be that of King Rajarajan I. The shrine for the Utsavar, Lord Thiagarajar as Somaskandar is in the southwestern corner of the prakaram. As a Paadal Petra Sthalam venerated in song by all three of the Moovar, Sampanthar, Appar and Suntharar, it was already a very revered site in the 7th and 8th centuries. Originally a Chola temple, it was greatly expanded during the Later Pandyan and Vijayanagar eras. The earliest existing structures appear to be from the 9th century. The oldest available inscription is from the reign of the Chola king Rajadhirajan I (1044-1052), son of Rajendran I. It mentions the donations made to this temple during Rajendran's rule. Other inscriptions have been lost, perhaps due to overzealous renovations by devout well-wishers over the centuries. The temple has many sacred water bodies or theerthams. The primary one is called the Nala Theertham. Bathing in it relieves people of their Sani Dosham it is believed. The Sthalaviruthcham or temple tree is the Dharbhai plant. The temple is thronged by devotees on Saturdays and during the shifting of Lord Sani's position in the Zodiac, called the Sani Peyarchi which occurs every 2.5 years. The main festival, the 18 day Brahmotsavam, begins on the day of the Uthirattathi Nakshatram, in the Tamil month of Vaikasi (May/June). The temple is administered by the Hindu Religious Institutions and Wakf Department of the Government of Puducherry. This is the 169th Paadal Petra Sthalam on the south side of the Kaveri River and the 52nd in the Chola Nadu. Thirugnanasampanthar dedicated 4 pathigams to this temple. Thirunavukkarasar or Appar and Sundaramoorthy Nayanar or Sundarar also have sung in its praise. In a famous incident in Madurai described in Tamil Saivite history and lore, Sampanthar was once confronted and ridiculed by Jain monks. In the ensuing debate he threw a copy of one of his Thirunallar pathigams into the fire while the Jains did the same with their holy scripture. The Jain manuscript apparently burned to ashes while Sampanthar's scroll remained untouched and green. It is called the Pachai Pathigam or the green pathigam. The Pandiyan king Nindraseer Nedumaran subsequently converted to Saivism from Jainism. போகமார்த்த பூண்முலையாள் தன்னோடும் பொன்னகலம் பாகமார்த்த பைங்கண்வெள் ளேற்றண்ணல் பரமேட்டி ஆகமார்த்த தோலுடையன் கோவண ஆடையின்மேல் நாகமார்த்த நம்பெருமான் மேயது நள்ளாறே (My Lord who has a blissful countenance, has Uma adorned with golden ornaments on her chest as part of him, rides the white bull with gentle eyes, is the essence of the Agamas, wears the (tiger's) skin as his loincloth, has the cobra as an ornament, He dwells here at Nallar) Thevaram 1.049 The temple is located 140 km or 3 hours east of Thiruchirapalli or the same distance south of Pondicherry. It is 33 km or 45 mins southeast of Mayiladuthurai, 17 km or 30 mins south of Tharangambadi and 25 km or 45 mins north of Nagapattinam. It is close to Karaikkal in the Union Territory of Puducherry or Pondicherry. We visited in August 2017 and June 2025. We were based in Tharangambadi and Kumbakonam. Sources: S.R Balasubrahmanyam, Middle Chola Temples, 1975. Chapter IV. Temples of Rajendra's Time Thevaram Shaivism.com Dinamalar Temples - Dharbaranyeswarar Temple - (Tamil) Courtesy Google Maps

சட்டநாதர் திருக்கோயில் அல்லது தோணியப்பர் திருக் கோயில், சீர்காழி This much-celebrated and well-known Sivan temple is one of the most revered temples in the Tamil Saivite tradition. It is ancient and beautiful. It is a Paadal Petra Sthalam and with a whopping 71 pathigams, it is one of the five most celebrated temples in the Thevaram. It is the birthplace or Avathara Sthalam of the boy-saint Thirugnanasampanthar. The Lord here and the temple have 12 different names. There are three manifestations of Lord Sivan in the sanctum. The temple and Lord here are commonly referred to as Thoniappar, Sattanathar and Brahmapureeswarar. In recent times it is sometimes called Sattainathar. In ancient times the temple was also referred to as Thirukazhumalam. The temple is closely associated with Thirugnanasampanthar. He was born here in this town in the early 7th century. When he was about 3 years old, his father Sivapatha Iruthayar took him to the temple and left him on the steps of the water tank and took a dip in the water. When he came out he noticed that the child's lips were white and he was holding a small bowl of milk. The infuriated father, upset that the child had consumed milk from a stranger, grabbed the dish and flung it at the temple walls. There is an indentation on the temple wall across from the Keni or water tank where people believe the Kinnam or bowl struck. Legend says that the child was crying when it lost sight of his father and Goddess Uma herself fed the child with her own milk to soothe him. The child turned out to be a prodigy and started singing Thevarams in praise of Lord Sivan from a young age, The more than 300 pathigams that he sang were later compiled into the first 3 Thirumurai of the Panniru Thirumurai, the Tamil Saivite canon. The sanctum of the temple has 3 levels. At the ground level Lord Brahmapureeswarar takes the form of a Sivalingam with Goddess Thirunilainayaki as his consort. The second level, accessible by a flight of steps, houses a massive sculpture of the Lord in the Umamaheswarar form with Goddess Periyanayaki by his side as his consort. He is known as Thoniappar or Periyanayakar. The idol is placed on a boat. "Thoni "means a boat in Tamil. Legend says that during one of the great deluges that engulfed the earth, Lord Sivan collected the 64 Arts and carried them in a raft or boat to save them from being lost. It is believed to have happened here. Thus he came to be known as Thoniappar, the Lord of the Boat. From the second level a set of stairs go up to the third level where Lord Sivan manifests in the Bhairavar form and is called Sattainathar or Sattanathar in ancient times. "Sattam" means law in Tamil. A grand view of the temple and surroundings can be experienced from the upper two levels. There is also a legend that Lord Sivan once wore Lord Vishnu as his Sattai or upper garment or shirt to quell his arrogance. The temple has spacious and long prakarams. Although the exact area is unclear, it is a moderately large temple. There are 22 waterbodies or theerthams associated with it. The main theertham is called Brahmatheertham. which is within the temple premises. There are two temple trees or sthalavirutchams, the Parijatham and the Pavalamalli. The temple is associated with Bhairavar worship and there is a Bhairavar shrine with the eight aspects of Bhairavar called the Ashta Bhairavar Sannidhi. There are three main sanctums within the complex. The sanctum sanctorum housing the 3 tiered Brahmapureeswarar, Thoniappar and Sattanathar shrines is central. In the northwest corner of the complex, is the shrine for the consort Thirunilainayaki. Between these two shrines, there is a shrine for Thirugnanasampanthar. There are lofty gopurams at the entrances in all four cardinal directions. It is an east facing temple. The Utchavar is Somaskandar. There are 47 sets of important inscriptions here. The inscriptions span 6 centuries from Vira Rajendra Cholan (1063 -1070) to the Vijayanagar king Venkatadevarayar (1598). They not only list the kings and benefactors who donated to the expansion of the temple at various times, but also give us an insight into the customs, practices and traditions of the people at that time. It is believed that in Thirugnasampanthar's period, the three parts of the main sanctum were in different areas of the temple. The current configuration started evolving in the 11th century onwards. Other kings mentioned in the inscriptions include, Kulothungan I (1070-1120), Kulothungan II (1136 -1150), Rajarajan II (1136 -1150), Rajadhirajan II (1163 -1175), Kulothungan III (1179-1216), Rajarajan III (1216-1246), Sundarapandiyan (1251-1270) and Krishnadevarayar (1509 -1529). The major festival or Brahmotsavam occurs in the Tamil month of Chithirai (April/May). The second day is known as the Thirumulaippal Festival and commemorates the event of Thirugnasampanthar's consumption of Parvathi's divine milk. There are several other festivals throughout the year. In olden times, it was customary for men to visit without an upper garment and bare chested and women did not wear flowers on their hair. These rules are not strictly adhered to anymore. The temple's day-to-day affairs are administered by the Saivite monastic institution, the Dharmapuram Adhinam. It is the 68th Paadal Petra Sthalam and the 14th sthalam on the north side of the Kaveri River. It has a large number pathigams in its praise. The Moovar, Thirugnanasampanthar, Thirunavukkarasar and Sundarar as well as Manickavasagar have praised this temple in song. It is said that Sundarar refused to set foot inside the temple because he thought that his feet would desecrate such a sacred site. He praised it in Thevaram from outside the town. Thirugnanasampanthar's first thevaram and the first thevaram of the entire Thirumurai was sung here: தோடுடைய செவியன் விடையேறியோர் தூவெண்மதி சூடிக் காடுடையசுட லைப்பொடிபூசி என் உள்ளங்கவர் கள்வன்         ஏடுடையமல ரான்முனைநாட்பணிந் தேத்தஅருள் செய்த          பீடுடையபிர மாபுரம்மேவிய பெம்மானிவ னன்றே.           (He wears a ring in his ear lobe, he rides a bull, he has the pure white crescent on his head, he owns the forest, he wears the ash of the cremation ground on his forehead, he is the thief who steals my heart, he has the book of the Vedas, he was worshipped by Lord Brahma in this esteemed Brahmapuram where he resides, he is my Lord) The temple is located 3 hours or 150 km northeast of Thiruchirapalli and 1.5 hours or 100 km south of Pondicherry. It is 1.5 hours or 60 km northeast of Kumbakonam and 1 hour 35 km north of Tharangambadi. We visited in June 2025. We were based in Kumbakonam. Sources: Dinamalar Temples - Sattainathar Temple, Sirkazhi (Tamil) N. Chockalingam 1971, Census of India 1961. Volume IX. Part XI -D. Temples of Tamil Nadu Pages 9-15 Shaivam.org  - Thevaram Courtesy Google Maps

சுவேதாரண்யேசுவரர் திருக்கோயில், திருவெண்காடு This is a significant Sivan temple which is on the Navagraham pilgrimage circuit celebrating Lord Budhan or Mercury and is one of the Paadal Petra Sthalams. Venmai means white and Kaadu is a forest in Tamil and Venkadu is a white forest. It is believed that there was a thicket of white trees in the midst of a dark forest here where the temple stood in ancient times. Swetha is white and Aranyam is forest in Sanskrit. The Lord manifests in three forms here. He is Swetharanyeswarar or Venkaatteeswarar as a Sivalingam in the sanctum, as well as Natarajar and Aghora Moorthy, a unique and fierce form of Sivan found only at this temple. There are three shrines for the consort goddess in three forms, Brahma Vidyambigai, Swetha Maha Kaali and Durga. It is one of the 51 Sakthi Peetams. It is also one of the Sapthavana (7 forests) temples and a Pancha Aranya (5 special forests) temple. It finds mention in the Thiruvasagam and is considered a Thiruvasaga Sthalam. It is believed that Lord Nataraja performed the cosmic dance or Thaandavam here before he did so at Chidambaram. It is sometimes referred to as Adhi Chidambaram. Legends say that the Devas once took refuge here to hide from an evil Asura. He fought with Lord Nandi who had tried to protect the Devas. Nandi was injured in this encounter and Lord Sivan himself had to manifest as Aghoramurthy, a unique and ferocious form to put the Asura down. Lord Sivan blessed Budhan or Mercury here making it a special place to worship the planetary deity, There are many other stories here attesting to the antiquity of the site. Pattinathar the 14th century Saivite ascetic was born here and grew up in nearby Poompuhar. Thiruvenkattu Nangai, the wife of Siruthondar Nayanar and the Saivite philosopher-saint Meikandar, author of the Sivagnanabotham were also born here. It is believed that a temple existed here from the beginning of the first millennium. The literary evidence for the existence of a temple here comes from the Thevaram. Thirugnasampanthar and Thirunavukkarasar praise this temple in their pathigams in the early 7th century. The temple was completely rebuilt as a granite structure by Aditya Cholan I, one of the earliest founders of the Chola Empire, in the late 9th century. There are more than 100 sets of inscriptions here describing contributions by many kings including Aditya Karikalan, Uthama Cholan, Rajarajan I, Rajendran I, Vikrama Cholan, Veera Rajendra Cholan, Kulothungan I, Rajadhiraja Cholan II, Jatavarman Sundara Pandiyan, Kulasekhara Pandian of the Later Pandyan Empire , Virupanna Udayar, son of Harihara II and Krishnadevaraya of the Vijayanagar Empire and Thukoji of the Thanjavur Maratha dynasty among others. Vikrama Cholan (1118-1135) built the Vikrama Cholan Thirumandapam. A number of Chola queens including Sembiyan Mahadevi have made donations of bronzes, jewels, land, sheep etc to this temple according to well-documented inscriptions. This east facing temple has a five-tiered rajagopuram at the eastern entrance and another five-tiered gopuram at the western entrance. There are 5 prakarams. The east facing shrine for the main consort Brahma Vidyambigai or Periyanayaki Amman is in the northwest corner of the outer prakaram. To the left of it is the special shrine for Lord Budhan or Mercury which is why this is considered a Navagraham temple. The navagraha idols are placed in a row here unlike the customary square formation. There is a special shrine for Aghoramurthy, a fierce and awe-inspiring form of Lord Sivan that is unique to this temple. There are three theerthams or bodies of water within the temple complex, Chandra Theertham, Suriya Theertham and Agni Theertham which are referred to as the Mukkulams. There are three temple trees or Thalavirutchams, the Vilvam, the Kondrai and the Vadaval. The Vilvam tree here uniquely does not have thorns. The Nandi has his head tilted looking at the Lord while keeping an ear cocked towards the Amman, paying attention to both. At around 12 acres it is not particularly large but a sizable temple nevertheless. The temple Is administered by the HR and CE Department of the Government of Tamil Nadu. The major festival falls in the Tamil month of Masi (February/March) and is a 13 day affair called the Indra Vizha. There are several other festivals throughout the year. The sculptures and bronzes here are very beautiful and special. Some have been transferred to the Chennai Museum. Many are at the Thanjavur Art Gallery. Some are still found at the temple. This is the 65th Paadal Petra Sthalam and the 11th on the north side of the Kaveri in Chola Nadu. It has the special distinction of having dedicated pathigams sung by all three of the Moovar (Sampanthar, Appar and Sundarar). Only 44 temples have that special status. Manickavasagar also mentions it in the Thiruvasagam. Thirugnanasampanthar sings thus: கண்காட்டு நுதலானுங்கனல்காட்டுங் கையானும் பெண்காட்டும் உருவானும்பிறைகாட்டுஞ் சடையானும் பண்காட்டும் இசையானும்பயிர்காட்டும் புயலானும் வெண்காட்டில் உறைவானும்விடைகாட்டுங் கொடியானே Thevaram 2.48 (The Lord who has an eye on his forehead and a flame in his hand, has graceful feminity in his form and the crescent in his locks, who is melodious as music, who is the storm that makes fertile fields, resides here at Venkadu with the bull on his banner) Thirunavukkarasar says: பண்காட்டிப்படியாயதன் பத்தர்க்குக் கண்காட்டிக்கண்ணில்நின்ற மணியொக்கும் பெண்காட்டிப்பிறைச்சென்னிவைத்தான்றிரு வெண்காட்டையடைந்துய்ம்மடநெஞ்சமே Thevaram 5.49 (He reveals himself in melody to his devotees, he fixes his gaze on them and shows himself like the jewel of their eyes, he reveals his feminine grace, my Lord with the crescent adorning his head, O innocent heart !!, go to Venkadu and be blessed by Him) The temple is located 180 km or 3 hours east of Thiruchirapalli and about 100 km or 2 hours south of Pondicherry. It is 25 km or 40 minutes east of Mayiladuthurai and 25 km or 1 hour north of Tharangambadi. We visited in June 2025. We were based in Kumbakonam. Sources: Dinamalar Temples - Suvedharanyeswarar Temple (Tamil) N. Chockalingam 1971, Census of India 1961. Volume IX. Part XI -D. Temples of Tamil Nadu Pages 32-40 Shaivam.org - Thevaram Courtesy Google Maps

There are certain useful aspects to remember when planning an itinerary to visit temples in Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry. Given the large number of temples, you need an approach to at least partially experience the most significant ones for you, the individual visitor. There are such a bewildering variety and number of temples, with many of them very unique in their own way, that without a systematic approach you will not be able to see the temples that might impress you the most. It is almost impossible to see all the temples in a single lifetime. So how does a person go about visiting these temples? There are indeed a large number of temples, many of them more than 1500 years old. They are spread out over the entire state of Tamil Nadu and the Union Territory of Pondicherry or Puducherry. Some regions have dense clusters of temples while the temples are sparse in other regions with great distances between them. The temples vary in their antiquity, history, religious/spiritual significance, architecture and art. Some temples are vast and grand structures that will take time to take in and experience while others are small but important in other ways. The location of the temple goer also matters. If you are a resident of Tamil Nadu or Pondicherry, there woud be many temples in you vicinity that are easily accessed. On the other hand. if you live elsewhere in India or abroad, your planning would be different Time When planning a trip, time is an important consideration. It has multiple aspects. Firstly, how much time you have allocated for the trip or if the temple visits are part of a wider trip, how much time you have set aside for temple visits, matters. Secondly, how much time you plan on spending at each temple will also determine the number of temples you can see, This will depend on the size of the temple as well as individual interests. Thirdly, travel time will also matter. The travel time between some temples are only minutes while others are hours apart. Timing The time when the temples are open is also a major consideration. Most active temples will open around 6 am and close around noon to reopen around 4 pm and will remain open till about 9 pm. But timing varies and it is wise to check ahead of time. Some temples will be closed on inauspicious days and times like eclipses etc. If you are interested in the outer structures, you should be there before sunset for adequate lighting. The sun sets quite quickly around 6 pm at all times of the year and it is very dark after that, especially in rural temples. Inactive ASI-controlled temples have different timings and do not generally close in the afternoon. Timing also depends on festivals and special days. People who like to experience the energy and activity around festivals might like to chose that time. Others who like to experience the temple in quiet contemplation might want to avoid those times. Interest Interest will determine which temples to cover and how much time you spend in each. If you are temple goer who is only interested in the divine and dharshan of the moorthy is most important, then the time you spend and how you spend it will be different from someone who is only interested in the art and architecture, Even among those who go only for spiritual reasons, some will engage in special archanais and rituals, some of which might be peculiar to that temple, while others will be satisfied with just having dharshan. Those who are interested in the architectural elements and art in the temple might want to circumambulate the various precincts and might spend more time. Some like us who are interested in all aspects of the temple have to plan accordingly Geography As we alluded to above, there are regions or towns where magnificent temples are literally steps away from each other, Kumbakonam, Kanchipuram and Trichy come to mind. There are other towns and villages too. In other regions you might have to travel a couple of hours to reach a remote temple. A good knowledge of the geography of the region as a whole and individual areas is useful but not absolutely essential. Google Maps and other tools are very reliable these days. A good driver is also an asset. Accessibility When we talk about accessibility, we consider location, transportation and lodging. The temples that are located in large cities and close to major highways or railways are certainly easier to get to. We prefer a motor vehicle to get to temples. It gives us the greatest flexibility and mobility. The roads and highways are getting progressively better. There are a variety of options including trains, buses and autos. Some temples are accessible by foot from public transportation. Lodgings vary and depend on budgets. There are plenty of options. If you go to our Guide section you will find temples arranged according to towns and cities, We picked these places due to the availability of accommodation that is suitable for the most discerning travellers, although some might be comparatively pricier. We hope that the above information will be useful for a person or group of people planning a trip. Do not try to overdo it. For most people, visiting 2-3 temples a day is ideal. If it is a large temple, it might take a whole morning or afternoon. If there is a small temple nearby, it can be combined. If you are visiting a number of smaller temples, the maximum recommended is 5 temples, 3 in the morning and 2 between 4 and 6 pm. But even this might be too overwhelming for a lot of people. Temple fatigue has to be avoided, You don't want to be "templed out". If you are the academic type you may want to take notes so that you are not confused at the end of the day. We will post this article in our Guide section where it will be easily accessible. We will update it there from time to time. We will also suggest various itineraries that people might find useful. The map below shows some of the temples we have visited and ones we have highlighted in our blog. There are many more. Courtesy Google Maps

நாகநாதசுவாமி திருக்கோயில், கீழப்பெரும்பள்ளம் This is the temple associated with Kethu in the Navagraha pilgrimage circuit. Like Raahu, Kethu is not a real planet or physical entity. It is sometimes referred to as a shadow planet. It is the south or descending lunar node where the moon's orbit coincides with the solar ecliptic on its southern arc. It is a point in space where eclipses tend to occur and is of great significance in Indian astrology. It is a Sivan temple. Many sources describe it as a Thevara Vaippu Sthalam. That means that it has been mentioned in passing in the Thevaram canon but has no dedicated pathigam attributed to it. However we have not been able to find the exact verse that mentions it nor a credible reference to corroborate the claim that this is a Vaippu Sthalam. Nevertheless, it is very popular with pilgrims as a temple in the Navagraham group of temples. Legends hold that during the churning of the Milky Ocean by the Devas and Asuras, in their quest for the holy elixir of Amirtham, they used the divine serpent king Vasuki as a rope. During this process a great poison ensued from the mouth of the snake which threatened the entire universe. Lord Sivan saved all of creation by consuming that venom and Parvati put a hold on his throat to prevent him from swallowing it. The poison got stuck in his throat and turned his neck blue and he thus gained the name Neelakandan - the Blue Throated One. The Lord gave Darshan to Vasuki at this site and stayed on at the divine snake's request to bless devotees. If it is indeed a Thevara Vaippu Sthalam, there must have been a temple in this locale in the 7th and 8th centuries. It is believed that there was a Chola era temple here. The current core structures are from the much later Nayakkan era. There are no significant inscriptions. Much of what we see today is recent, modern construction. The site could be ancient but the present physical structures are likely not. Perhaps there was a temple here that fell into irreparable damage and decay and was eventually lost but the memory of the site survived. The other possibility is that a grand temple was never meant to be built in the first place due to the austere nature of Kethu worship. It seems to have not received the royal patronage many other temples in the region have received. Also, the Navagraha pilgrimage is not an ancient practice. It is a fairly recent phenomenon popularised by astrologers and media and has now become an established practice. So it might not have been an important site in ancient times. It is a fairly small temple and lacks impressive architecture. The importance is the site itself. It has only one prakaram. There is no towering rajagopuram. The main entranceway has a flat gopuram, a Mottai Gopuram. The sanctum sanctorum houses the presiding deity Lord Sivan in the form of a Sivalingam. It is an east facing shrine. The shrine for Goddess Soundaryanayaki is in the mahamandapam and faces south. The shrine for Lord Kethu is in the prakaram, to the left of the sanctum and faces west. The temple is known for this shrine. The idol for Lord Kethu is a 5 headed serpent paying homage to Lord Sivan. There is no separate shrine for the Navagrahams but there are idols for Lord Saneeswarar and Lord Suryan here, The theertham is the Nagatheertham in front of the temple. The Sthala Virutcham is the Bamboo tree. The major festival is the Vasuki Utsavam in the Tamil month of Panguni (March/ April). Lord Kethu is brought out in procession on the 3rd day. The temple is under the control of the HR and CE. The temple is located 150 km or 3 hours east of Thiruchirapalli and 120 km or 2.5 hours south of Pondicherry. It 25 km or 40 minutes east of Mayiladuthurai and 25 km or 40 minutes north of Tharangambadi. We visited in June 2025. We were based in Kumbakonam. Sources: Dinamalar Temples - Naganathar Temple Kilperumpallam kethutemple.org - Naganathaswamy Temple Keezhaperumpallam Velutharan Temples Visit - Sr Naganathaswamy Temple. Keelaperumpallam Courtesy Google Maps