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  • Temples of Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry #92: Karpaka Vinayakar Temple, Pillayarpatti

    கற்பக விநாயகர் திருக்கோயில், பிள்ளையார்பட்டி One of the oldest temples to Lord Vinayaka or Ganesha in the Tamil country, this temple is very ancient. Lord Ganesha is fondly referred to as Pillayar in Tamil. It is a cave temple. Its origins are shrouded in the mists of time. Although the temple is best known as a Pillayar temple, like most Saivite temples, Lord Siva is also given great prominence. There are two main sanctums at right angles to each other. They are both accorded equal importance, although the Vinayagar cave-shrine is by far the more popular. The layout of the temple is unique in that there is a cave shrine built into the rock face of the hillock behind the temple and is enclosed within the temple. This is the most ancient part of the temple and faces north with an entrance in that direction with a rajagopuram of its own. It houses a rock-cut, large idol of Lord Ganesha facing north. It also houses other sculptures including Lord Sivan in the form of a lingam called the Thiruveesar. At right angles to it is an east facing structural shrine housing Lord Siva as a lingam and is known as the Marudeeswarar. Here the Lord faces east and there is an entrance and a rajagopuram in that direction also. The age of this temple is somewhat difficult to date exactly. The rock cut idol of Pillayar and other idols in the cave shrine appear to be quite ancient. There is an inscription at the bottom of the idol which is a name of a person and widely believed to be that of the sculptor. A signature of sorts. The Tamil script is that which prevailed in the 2nd to 5th centuries. Based on this scholars have dated the cave to the 4th century. There are other clues dating it to the 7th century. It has been extensively renovated many times since then, constituting many phases of rebuilding. There is a 7th century inscription that names the Ganesha idol as Desi Vinayaka. Some have postulated that the Pallava monarch Narasimhavarman I built the cave temple around 650 CE. Others believe that it is more likely that the early Pandian kings were responsible. Although the Pallavas built similar temples in the northeast, it is unlikely that their direct influence extended this far south. There are also more recent inscriptions on the walls from 1091 and 1238 CE suggesting further expansions in those times. Since the 13th century onwards the Nattukottai Chettiar or Nagarathar community has actively patronised this temple and has been responsible for its further development and upkeep. It is celebrated as one of the nine ancestral temples of this merchant community. The Pillayar idol within the cave is a magnificent bas-relief sculpted on the granite cave wall facing north. It is 6 feet tall and has been covered in glittering gold. Uniquely, the Thumbikkai or trunk of the Lord is curved to the right instead of the common left curvature. Thus he is called Valampuri Vinayagar. Moreover he only has two hands as opposed to the customary four. The other sculptures within the cave are also unusual. There is an enigmatic bas-relief of a figure with two attendants that has variously been described as a royal figure or Lord Shiva. If it is that of a royal patron, the headdress and attire do not fit the usual Pandian or Pallava styles. There is another figure which is asymmetric, leading to speculation that it is an early Ardhanareeswarar (half Sivan-half Parvati) or Harihara (half Sivan- half Vishnu), but the sculpture is not typical of either form. The structural Marudeeswarar shrine is built like a traditional sanctum with a vimanam and is a later addition. The sthala virutcham is the Marudam or Arjuna tree. It is one of four temples in South India where the Marutham tree is celebrated. The others are Thirupudaimaruthur, Thiruvidaimaruthur and Srisailam in Andra Pradesh. Apart from its historical significance the temple is an important pilgrimage site and very popular among devotees. It draws large crowds of worshippers throughout the year. Festivals like the Vinayaka Chathurthi which usually falls in late August or early September are celebrated with great flair. The temple is located in the village of Pillayarpatti, near Kundrakudi and Thirupathur. It is 80 km or 1.5 hours northeast of Madurai, 15 km or 30 minutes northwest of Karaikudi or 45 km or 1 hour south of Pudukkottai. We visited in July 2012 and June 2025. We were based in Kanadukathan. Temple layout Lord Ganesha at Pillayarpatti - Courtesy Temples of Madras State Census 1961 Sources: Nagaswamy, R. “Some Contributions of the Pāṇḍya to South Indian Art.” Artibus Asiae , vol. 27, no. 3, 1965, pp. 265–74. JSTOR , https://doi.org/10.2307/3249074. Accessed 23 Aug. 2025. P.K. Nambiar and K.C. Narayana Kurup (1961), Temples of Madras State, Census of India Volume IX, Part XI-D (vi), Government of India, pp. 196–198 https://archive.org/details/temples-of-tamilnadu/Book-Temples-of-Tamilnadu-Vol-6-Madurai-Ramnad-Census1961-648pp/page/n343/mode/2up Credits: Google Maps

  • Temples of Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry #90: Manickavasagar Birth Place Temple, Thiruvathavur

    மாணிக்கவாசகர் பிறப்பிடக்கோயில் திருவாதவூர் About 500 meters from the entrance of the ancient Thirumarainathar temple is this temple that is believed to be built on the land where Manickavasagar's house once stood 1100 yers ago . This is where he is believed to have been born and where he grew up. The small temple for Manickavasagar stands in a corner of an enclosed compound. It is a fairly large compound, about 5 acres in area. It is fenced and walled and as such relatively safe from encroachment. A sizeable modern mandapam or hall is at the other corner of the enclosure. It is called the Manickavasagar Arangam. It has a large bronze idol of Lord Nataraja at the front and room for about five hundred or more people. The walls are tastefully decorated with modern murals depicting scenes from his life and verses from the Thiruvasagam. Nicely done. When we visited, a group of middle-aged men and women were at the front doing a continuous recitation of the Thiruvasagam. It was beautiful. It is a daily ritual here There is a lot of empty space that holds immense potential to develop as a fitting tribute to the great saint. It is a place many people visiting Thiruvathavur might overlook. It is well worth a visit and time should be allocated for it. The small temple is closed most of the time. The priests at the nearby Thirumarainathar temple may be able to guide you to someone who will have to open the temple on special request. Although some dispute the exact period of Manickavasagar and claim that he lived in the 3rd century or the 6th century, the conventional wisdom has been that he lived in the 9th century which makes more sense. He is one of the most important of the Saivite poet-saints who revived Tamil Saivism. After centuries of domination by the Jain and Buddhist faiths, there was a movement to revive Tamil Saivism and Tamil Vaishnavism. It is often referred to as the Bhakti Movement and lasted about 3 centuries beginning in the early 7th century. The 63 Nayanmar were the saints on the Saivite side who worked tirelessly and selflessly to advance the faith. They came from all walks of life and included men and women from various castes and communities from Brahmins to the most oppressed sections. They crisscrossed the Tamil lands, visiting ancient temples, reviving and renovating them. They engaged in philosophical debates with Jain and Buddhists monks. They sang devotional songs. They converted monarchs. The 12 Azhwar did the same on the Vaishnavite side. Manickavasagar is one of the most important personalities in this movement and is included in the quartet known as the Saivite Naalvar (The Four) together with Thirugnanasampanthar, Thirunavukkarasar and Sundaramoorthy Nayanar. However, he is not one the 63 Nayanmar like the other three, perhaps because he belonged to a later time. Manickavasagar was born in this village and his birth name was Vathavoorar. He was born into an erudite Amathya Brahmin family and gained great knowledge at a very young age, By the time he was sixteen he joined the service of the Pandian king at Madurai, Varagunavarman II or Arimarthana Pandian (CE 862-885). He soon became the most trusted advisor to the king and was made his chief minister. He was given the title Thennavan Brahmarayan. One day the king sent the young Vathavooran to the eastern coast with a large sum of money to buy imported Arabian war horses. When he reached the town of Thiruperunthurai he fell under the spell of an old man sitting under a Kurunthai tree who revealed divine knowledge to him. The old man was none other than the Lord himself and on his advice Vathavoorar built a temple at Thiruperunthurai using all the money he brought with him. The temple stands to this day and is known as Auvudayar Koil. Soon the day came when the king sent word to return with the horses. Vathavooarar panicked and ran to his guru under the Kurunthai tree who calmed him down and told hom that he would take care of it and that he should return to Madurai. He promised to bring the horses in a few days. Sure enough the horses arrived on the promsed day only to turn into foxes during the night. The angry king got Vathavoorar arrested and imprisoned, The next day there was a great flood and the Vaigai broke its banks and inundated the city of Madurai. Realising his mistake the king set Manickavasagar free and he returned to Thiruperunthurai to start composing the Thiruvasagam. Over the ensuing years he travelled far and wide visiting many temples and completed the Thiruvasagam and the Thirukovayar in Chidambaram where he attained Mukti. Although many temples are mentioned in his works, his favorite temples were Thiruperunthurai, Chidambaram, Thirukazhukundram, Thiruvannamalai and Thiru Uthirakosamangai. It is located about 34 km or 45 minutes to the east of Madurai. It is close to the Thirumarainathar temple at Thiruvathavur and not far from Thirumohur. We visited in June 2025. We were based in Madurai.. Sources: TN Temples Project Shaivam

  • Temples of Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry #11: Nellaiappar Temple, Thirunelvely

    நெல்லையப்பர் திருக்கோயில் - திருநெல்வேலி Situated in the heart of Thirunelveli town on the north bank of the Thamirabarani river, is the vast and majestic Nellaiappar temple. At 14.5 acres this twin temple complex is slightly larger in area than the Meenakshi - Sundareswarar in Madurai. It lacks the tall gopurams of Madurai but has many of the same features like the massive sculptures that you see there. It also has the famed musical columns. It is a Paadal Petra Sthalam and has been praised in song by all three of the Moovar, Gnanasampanthar, Appar and Suntharar. It has been in existence since the 7th century at least and the two temples were joined together by the impressive Sankili Mandapam in 1647 and the entire complex is enclosed by a wall. Although the Saivite Pandian king Arikesari Nindraseer Nedumaran is credited with the initial construction in the 7th century, many dynasties including Chola and later Pandian kings contributed to it. Much of the architecture that we see today is from the Nayakkan era. Legend says that a poor farmer prayed to Sivan to protect his ready-to-harvest rice paddy from an impending storm and Sivan himself came to his aid and built a fence. That is why it is called Thirunelveli. The Lord here is also called Venunathar because they say this used to be a bamboo forest. It is one the five Pancha Sabas (பஞ்ச சபைகள்) of Lord Nataraja. The Ponnambalam (பொன்னம்பலம்) or Golden Hall is in Chidambaram. The Velliambalam (வெள்ளியம்பலம்) or Hall of Silver is in Madurai. The Rathina Sabai (இரத்தின சபை) or the Hall of Rubies is in Thiruvalankadu where he performed the Rudrathaandavam. The Chitra Sabai (சித்திர சபை) or Hall of Paintings is in Kutralam and the Thaamira Sabai (தாமிர சபை) or Hall of Copper is here in Tirunelveli. The Thaamira Sabai is found in one of the inner precincts. We went on a Friday evening and the temple was busy but in a pleasant way. Groups of people were moving along the precincts singing the Thevarams of our childhood and clapping on their cymbals. In the outer precincts old men and women were telling stories from the Puranas to eager young kids who were enthralled. This is a scene that has played out in these halls for a thousand years or more without a break. We were so wrapt in the atmosphere that I forgot to take a lot of pictures. We visited in August 2019. We were based in Thirunelveli. Credits: Google Maps

  • Temples of Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry #42: Ekambareswarar or Ekambaranathar Temple, Kanchipuram

    ஏகாம்பரநாதர் அல்லது ஏகாம்பரேசுவரர் திருக்கோயில் காஞ்சிபுரம் One of the most sacred Saivite temples in Tamil Nadu, this ancient Sivasthalam is a very special temple. It is one the five Pancha Bootha Sthalams. Here the Lord is celebrated as the Earth - the Prithvilingam. The lingam in the sanctum is made of sand. It is venerated in Thevaram by all three of the Moovar and Manickavasagar, making it one of the temples celebrated by all four of the Kuravars. It is the first Paadal Petra Sthalam in the Thondai Nadu. It is mentioned in numerous other Tamil Saivite literary works. It has a Vishnu shrine within the premises celebrated in the Naalayira Divya Prabandham, making it a Divya Desam temple also. Only two temples including the Thillai Natarajar at Chidambaram have this rare distinction. It is a vast temple and covers an area of 23 acres. Together with the adjacent Kamakshi Amman temple and the Kumarakottam Murugan temple in the middle, it forms a Somaskanda configuration. The 59 m or 192 feet rajagopuram built by the great Vijayanagara emperor Krishnadevaraya in 1509 is one of the tallest in South India. It has nine tiers or nilai. It has wide prakarams and numerous beautiful sculptures. An ancient mango tree is the Sthala Virutcham here. The temple predates the Pallavas and was certainly in existence in the 7th century as it was venerated by the Nayanmar in the Thevaram. It was rebuilt by the Pallavas and rebuilt again by the Cholas. Vijayanagar and Nayakkan kings also contributed much to its maintenance and expansion. During colonial time the great philanthropist, Pachaiyappa Mudaliar in the 18th century and the Nattukkottai Chettiar in the 19th and early 20th centuries were very generous in their support of this temple. Today it is under control of the HR and CE Department of the Government of Tamil Nadu. It is located in Kanchipuram, about 80 km or 2 hours southwest of Chennai. We visited in July 2010. We were based in Chennai. Credits: Google Maps

  • Temples of Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry #46: Adhipureeswarar or Thyagarajaswamy Temple, Thiruvottriyur, Chennai

    ஆதிபுரீசுவரர் அல்லது தியாகராஜ சுவாமி திருக்கோயில், திருவொற்றியூர், சென்னை This vast and much revered Paadal Petra Sivasthalam, also referred to as the Vadivudai Amman Temple, is situated in the northern part of Chennai city. Today this part of Chennai is a poor and crime ridden area of town known for gangs and violence. When we tried to visit here in previous years we were discouraged by many including our drivers. When we visited in May 2023 also our driver was very reluctant to venture out here but we were determined to go, although a bit nervous at the same time. It turned out to be a very pleasant experience. One of only four Paadal Petra Sthalams within the city of Chennai, it is a very ancient site. All three of the Moovar, Appar, Sampanthar and Sundarar have sung Thevaram Pathikams here. Appar sang thus: வெள்ளத்தைச் சடையில் வைத்த வேதகீ தன்றன் பாதம் மெள்ளத்தானடைய வேண்டின் மெய்தரு ஞானத் தீயால் கள்ளத்தைக் கழிய நின்றார் காயத்துக் கலந்து நின்று உள்ளத்து ளொளியுமாகும் ஒற்றியூருடைய கோவே This is where the Tamil Saivite philosopher-saint Pattinathar (பட்டினத்தார்) lived and died. This is also a very important site for the Thiyagaraja belief system within Saivism which venerates the Somaskanda iconography of Siva and originated in the Chola country in the 10th century. Sankaracharya visited here in the 8th century. In existence from Pallava times, the temple was expanded in the 11th century by Rajendra Cholan I. There are many inscriptions here including an inscription belonging to Gandaraditya Cholan dated to 954 CE. This temple was in the direct path of the 100,000 strong invading force of the Delhi Sultanate under Malik Kafur in 1310 CE and bore the brunt of this invasion. Much of the temple was ransacked and destroyed. It was rebuilt again by Vijayanagara kings in the 15th and 16th centuries.The temple is now administered by the HR and CE department of the Government of Tamil Nadu. It is located in the north part of the City of Chennai. We visited in May 2023 Credits: Google Maps

  • Temples of Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry #45: Thiruvalleeswarar Temple, Thiruvalidhayam, Padi, Chennai

    திருவலிதாயம் திருவல்லீசுவரர் திருக்கோயில் பாடி சென்னை Of the four Paadal Petra Sthalams within metropolitan Chennai, this is likely the least well known. Situated in the industrial and working class neighbourhood of Padi, it is not as famous as others such as the Kapaleeswarar in Mylapore or the Marundeeswarar in Thiruvanmiyur. Today the temple is popular with the locals as it is associated with Guru or Jupiter and is one of the Navagraha temples around Chennai. The temple must have been in existence in some form in the early 7th century as Sampanthar has praised it in his Thevaram. It was a much larger complex during the heyday of the Chola empire in the 11th and 12th centuries when much of the temple was rebuilt by Rajarajan III and Kulothungan III. Added on to during Vijayanagar and Nayakkan times, it must have been a grand temple. Heavily encroached upon by an expanding city, today only the core remnant remains. The nearby Padaivettu Amman Koil a kilometre away was part of the original complex and is proof of the large extent of the original temple. Chola military commanders paid homage to the Amman here before their northern campaigns. The name Padi likely came from the Chola military encampment that existed here. Padi means a military settlement. Some say that it got its name from the Nayanmar and others who sang hymns in praise of the lord here. The sanctum and the Vimanam here are of the Gajaprishta or Thoonganai Maadam type. It is a fine example of this type of Vimanam that was very popular in the later Chola period. Although this is only a small part of the original temple, it is still a large complex. The relatively small 3 tier rajagopuram is likely a gopuram over an inner entrance way. The outer prakarams have been swallowed by encroachments from an expanding city. It is a beautiful and ancient temple in a bustling part of the city. It is located in the Padi neighbourhood in the western part of the city of Chennai. The locals refer to it as the Padi Sivan Koil. We visited in August 2017. We stayed in Chennai. Credits: Google Maps

  • Temples of Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry #43: Thirukalukundram Temple, Chengalpattu

    வேதகிரீசுவரர் மற்றும் பக்தவத்சலேசுவரர் திருக்கோயில் திருக்கழுக்குன்றம் Also spelled Thirukkazhukundram (the "zh" stands for the retroflex "l" in Tamil), this is actually a twin temple complex. The beautiful temple at the base of the hill is known as the Bhaktavachaleswarar Temple and the temple on the hilltop is the Vedagiriswarar Temple. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, these two temples are much venerated and have a long and celebrated history. Thirukalukundram is praised in the Thevaram and the Thiruvasagam. It is one of those temples that have the special distinction of being mentioned in the works of all four of the Naalvar, Thirugnasampanthar, Thirunavukkarasar, Sundaramoorthy Nayanar and Manickavasagar. Thus it is a Paadal Petra Sthalam and a Thiruvasaga Sthalam. Legends abound here. Until recently two Egyptian Vultures used to visit the temple on the hilltop every day at noon to be fed by the priests. Egyptian vultures are native to India despite their name. The birds that came here were vultures and not eagles as mentioned in some places. They disappeared in the late 1990s. The story goes that two ancient sages who had a spell cast on them by the Lord for their arrogance, were destined to live as vultures and prayed here for many yugas for their salvation. When they had done their penance they would be liberated. Another belief is that they would come only until good people existed in the area in this Kali Yugam. Another explanation is that the widespread use of the commonly used anti-inflammatory medication diclofenac has devastated the vulture population in India. Diclofenac which is found in the carcasses of animals the vultures consume causes kidney failure in vultures within hours. Diclofenac is used to treat cattle in veterinary medicine. Whatever the reason the birds do not come to this temple complex named after them anymore. The Bhaktavachaleswarar temple is a complete large temple at the bottom of the hill with four magnificent gopurams and theerthams. It is customary to visit it first and then climb the 562 steps to visit the Vedagiriswarar on the hilltop. The hilltop temple is seemingly precariously positioned on the summit of the hill. The hill is about 500 feet in height. The area comprising the two temples and sacred hill is a vast 265 acres. The Vedagiriswarar does not have a Nandhi at the top. The Nandhi is located at the Bhaktavachaleswarar and is gazing towards the hill. The vimanam of the Bhaktavachaleswarar temple is of the Gajaprishta or Thoonganai Maadam style Given its great antiquity and spiritual significance, it has had contributions from many dynasties and individuals from different eras. The small cave temple found close to the top on the hillside, known as Orukkal Mandapam (ஒருக்கல் மண்டபம்- single stone mandapam) is believed to have been built by the Pallava king Mahendra Varman who ruled from CE 610 to 640. It has been heavily vandalized by British soldiers who were stationed here during the colonial period. Thirukalukundram is a special temple in so many ways and is one of my favourites. It is located in Chengalpattu, 2 hours or 72 km south of Chennai. We visited in August 2017, May 2023 and August 2024. We were based in Chennai Photos updated November 2024 Credits: Google Maps

  • Temples of Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry #44: Kapaleeswarar Temple, Mylapore, Chennai

    கபாலீசுவரர் திருக்கோயில் மயிலாப்பூர் சென்னை This ancient temple was originally located close to the seashore in Mylapore. It was destroyed during the Portuguese occupation of this area in 1566. The original site is believed to have been where the San Thome Cathedral stands today. It was built in the 7th century by Pallava kings. It was rebuilt at the current site about 1.5 km inland later in the 16th century by Vijayanagar kings. Some of the stones of the original temple were used in the reconstruction of the new temple. Inscriptions dating back to the 12th century have been found in the temple. Some inscriptions pertaining to the temple have been found close to the original site too. The current structure was built only about 300 years ago. The towering 120 feet or 37 m rajagopuram over the eastern entrance was built only in 1906. So it is a relatively modern temple complex despite its ancient past. It is a Paadal Petra Sthalam and Thirugnasampanthar rendered the pathikam here. There is a legend that he revived a young girl named Poompavai who had died from a snake bite. She was the daughter of an ardent Siva devotee at Mylapore called Sivanesar. The pathikam sung here is known as the Poompavai Pathikam. In his pathikam Sampanthar describes a temple on the seashore. The temple has a typical Dravidian temple layout. It has many mandapams. One of the mandapams houses the bronze images of the 63 nayanmar which are taken out in procession during the Arupathimoovar Festival in March or April. It is a popular temple and attracts huge crowds on special days. It is now controlled by the HR and CE Department of the Government of Tamil Nadu. It is located in Chennai. We visited in January 2005, July 2010 and May 2023. We stayed in Chennai. Credits: Google Maps

  • Temples of Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry #41: Kamakshi Amman Temple, Kanchipuram

    காமாட்சியம்மன் திருக்கோயில் காஞ்சிபுரம் Often referred to as the City of a Thousand Temples, Kanchipuram is an ancient city in India that has has been inhabited continuously since perhaps the Palaeolithic period. It is one of the oldest and holiest cities in India. It has a long tradition as a centre of learning for Hindus, Buddhists and Jains. Although the city has many temples, the Kamakshi Amman temple is considered the most important and is central to many other temples. Here the Goddess has a temple all to herself and her consort Lord Shiva is housed in a separate temple nearby, the Ekambarishvarar. It is of note that many of the Sivan temples in Kanchipuram do not have an Ambal shrine. The Kamakshi Amman is the Ambal shrine for all these temples. It is one of the 51 Shakthi Peedams in India and together with Madurai Meenakshi and Akilandeshvari at Thiruvanaikkaaval, it is one of the three most revered temples dedicated to Goddess Parvati in Tamil Nadu. It is a very important pilgrimage site. It has a strong association with Adi Sankaracharya, the 8th century saint-philosopher who contributed much to the revival of Hinduism in the south and elsewhere in India. He is credited with installing the Sri Chakra Yantram that is worshipped in the sanctum to this day. The Goddess here is found as a seated idol in a Padmasana pose. The antiquity of the temple likely predates the Pallavas who ruled from here since the 6th century to the 9th. They likely rebuilt the temple, although inscriptional evidence is lacking. It has been rebuilt again since and Chola artisans from the 14th century are responsible for the surviving architecture in the inner core. The Vijayanagara and Nayakkan kings of course have left their mark especially with lofty gopurams. Given its long history, the layout of the temple is somewhat complicated with the additions over many eras. At 5 acres in area, it is certainly not huge. The vimanam over the sanctum has a gold plated cap. Together with the nearby Ekambarishvarar and the Kumarakottam Murugan Temple in between, the three temples are built to represent the Somaskanda manifestation of Lord Shiva. The temple is located in Kanchipuram, about 2 hours or 80 km southwest of Chennai. We visited in July 2010. We were based in Chennai. Credits: Google Maps

  • Temples of Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry #47: Dharmeswarar Temple, Manimangalam

    தர்மேசுவரர் திருக்கோயில், மணிமங்கலம் Manimangalam is a small village just outside Chennai city on the southwest side. It is the site of the great Battle of Manimangalam fought in 642 CE between the Pallava king Narasimhavarman I and the Western Chalukya king Pulakesin II. The Pallavas emerged victorious, but Narasimhavarman’s father Mahendravarman was badly injured. The battle features in the classic historical novel by Kalki Krishnamoorthy- Sivagamyin Sabatham - சிவகாமியின் சபதம். This beautiful temple was built in its current form by the Cholas with later contributions by the Pandyas and Vijayanagar kings. Kulothunga Cholan I is credited with most of the work. The front mandapa is rebuilt by the Vijayanagar kings. It has a lot of well preserved inscriptions. The temple is in a remarkably good state of preservation. The sculptures- especially the koshta idols are beautifully crafted. It lacks a rajagopuram or kodimaram / dwajasthambam. The vimanam is of the Gajaprishta or Thoonganai Maadam style but the sanctum is rectangular and not apsidal. There are an interesting set of statuettes holding swords to their necks commemorating Chola royal bodyguards who were willing to give their lives to protect their kings. There is a window sculpted out of stone. It is situated in peaceful surroundings and the premises are nicely maintained. There is a Rudraksha - உருத்திராக்கம் tree here which bears fruit. The temple is under the control of the ASI - the Archeological Survey of India. As we looked across the green fields, which were battlefields almost 1500 years ago, our gaze fell upon the distant tall residential buildings on the outskirts of Chennai. One day soon that urban sprawl will reach here and engulf this oasis in a concrete jungle. Sad but inevitable. It is located about 43 km or one hour southwest of Chennai. We visited in May 2023. We were based in Chennai. Credits: Google Maps

  • Temples of Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry #38: Shore Temple, Mahabalipuram or Mamallapuram

    கரைக்கோயில் மகாபலிபுரம் அல்லது மாமல்லபுரம் Located right on the seashore at Mamallapuram or Mahabalipuram, this small inactive temple is a much visited tourist site very close to Chennai. It is located along the coast about 60 km or 1-2 hours south of Chennai depending on traffic. It is part of the UNESCO World Heritage site at Mahabalipuram. It is looked after by the Archeological Survey of India , the ASI. Built by the Pallava king Rajasimhan or Narasimhavarman II, it was constructed between 700 and 728 CE. There are some elements that may date back to the time of Mamallan or Narasimhavarman I who ruled from 638 to 660 CE. However the main credit for this structure goes to Rajasimhan. This is one of the earliest structural temples that have survived. Mamallapuram was the seaport of the Pallavas. It was a bustling city by the sea and an important metropolis. The temple is a complex of three structures, one large and two smaller. The larger is dedicated to Lord Shiva and the smaller two are dedicated to Lord Shiva and Lord Vishnu. All the usual trademark Pallava sculptures are found here, including lion motifs, yalis, Somaskanda panel and a Mahishasuramardini panel. The entire structure is built of granite and has withstood the test of time and the elements for 1300 years. It has seen many Tsunamis including the one in December 2004. It is believed that there were seven such structures along the coast here and were known as the Seven Pagodas to ancient mariners. They were visible far out to sea, Only one seems to have survived. The 2004 Tsunami has unearthed some structures which could be the ruins of some of the other temples that were lost to the sea. We visited in July 2010. We were based in Chennai. Credits: Google Maps

  • Temples of Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry #48: Dhenupureeswarar Temple, Maadambakkam, Chennai

    தேனுபுரீசுவரர் திருக்கோயில், மாடம்பாக்கம், சென்னை This ancient and historically important Sivan temple is situated on the outskirts of Chennai city about 30 km from the centre to the southwest. It has unique features and given its architectural and cultural importance, it is jointly administered by the ASI and the HR and CE. Despite the ASI involvement, it is a very active temple and very popular. It is a monument of national importance and is a protected site. Legends say that the great sage Kapila was once born as a cow and attained redemption by worshiping the Lord here. Dhenu means cow. This temple should not be confused with another famous Dhenupureeswarar temple in the Chola country near Kumbakonam. This Dhenupureeswarar temple at Maadamabakkam built of stone was originally erected by Sundara Cholan or Paranthakan II, the father of Rajarajan, and his able minister Aniruddha Brahmadhirajan in the latter half of the 10th century. It was later expanded by Kulothungan I in the 11th century. The outer mandapam was constructed by the Vijayanagara kings in the 15th century. The temple is known for its exquisite sculptures. There are 10th and 11th century sculptures of Chola vintage in the inner core and later Vijayanagara sculptures in the outer mandapam. There is a revered sculpture of Sarabeshwara, the fierce form that Siva took to quell the anger of Narasimha, that is particularly beautiful. The sanctum and vimanam are of the Gajaprishta or Thoonganai Maadam - தூங்கானை மாடம் type. The entrance is of solid granite and of Chola style but lacks a rajagopuram. It is a Mottai Gopuram- மொட்டைக்கோபுரம். They say that the rajagopuram was never built but that is difficult to believe given the involvement of the Vijayanagara kings who were prolific builders of gopurams. It is more likely that the rajagopuram, often built of stucco and wood, has decayed over time and has been lost. There are inscriptions here from the 13th century belonging to Chola kings Kulothunga III and Rajarajan III, Jatavarman Sundara Pandyan and Vijayanagara kings Kampanna Udayar, Devaraya II and Sadasiva Raya. From a historical and architectural point of view, this is perhaps the most significant ancient Siva temple in the Chennai area. Locals refer to it as the Maadambakkam Sivan temple. It is located in the Chennai suburb of Maadamabakkam about 30 km southwest of the core of the city. We visited in May 2023. We stayed in Chennai. Credits: Google Maps

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