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ஞானபுரீசுவரர் அல்லது இடைச்சுரநாதர் திருக்கோயில், திருவடிசூலம் This ancient Paadal Petra Sivasthalam is located about 70 km southwest of Chennai and about 6 km northeast of Chengalpattu. As it is a Paadal Petra Sthalam it must have existed in some form in the early 7th century. The site could be much older. The Pallava emperor Parameswaravarman I (670-695 CE) is credited with building the first structural temple here. Many dynasties and kings have contributed to the building of this temple. The inner core as it stands today is very much Chola and the 5 tier rajagopuram is Vijayanagara (16th century) or later. There are at least 15 sets of important inscriptions here from Kulothunga I to Vijayanagara kings like Viruppanna, Bukka Raya II and Achyuta Raya. It is administered by the HR and CE Department of the Government of Tamil Nadu and the Thirukkazhukundram Vedagiriswarar Devasthanam. There are many legends about this temple. It is said that when Thirugnasampanthar was on a pilgrimage to visit the Sivan temples of Thondai Nadu, he had rested under a tree here on his way to the ancient Sivasthalam of Thirukkazhukundram nearby. A young cowherd- Idayan or இடையன்- approached him and asked whether the boy saint had heard about the ancient temple here. Sampanthar replied that he had not. So the cowherd led him to this temple and disappeared into the sanctum. It was the Lord himself playing with the young Sampanthar. Thus this place came to be known as Thiruvidaichuram. Sampanthar rendered a pathikam for this temple. வரிவள ரவிரொளி யரவரை தாழ வார்சடை முடிமிசை வளர்மதி சூடிக் கரிவளர் தருகழல் கால்வல னேந்திக் கனலெரி யாடுவர் காடரங் காக விரிவளர் தருபொழில் இளமயில் ஆல வெண்ணிறத் தருவிகள் திண்ணென வீழும் எரிவள ரினமணி புனமணி சாரல் இடைச்சுர மேவிய இவர்வண மென்னே It is also true that this temple is situated between two hills. Idai also mean between in Tamil. Another reason for the temple to be called Thiruvidaichuram. Today the name of the village has evolved to Thiruvadisoolam. It is located about 70 km or 2 hours southwest of Chennai. We visited in May 2023. We were based in Chennai. Credits: Google Maps

முன்குடுமீசுவரர் திருக்கோயில், பொன்விளைந்தக்களத்தூர் This temple was originally a Pallava brick and earth structure built by Nandivarman III. It was rebuilt as a stone temple by the Cholas. Vikrama Cholan and Kulothunga Cholan contributed most to the construction of the temple as it stands today. I could see some Vijayanagar and Nayakkan additions but no modern appendages. There are many inscriptions from Nandivarman III to Rajarajan III to Sundara Pandiyan. The temple is small but has important architectural elements. The Sivan Sannithy has a Gajaprishta Vimanam or a Thoonganai Maadam. But the sanctum is rectangular as opposed to apsidal in a classic Gajaprishtam. It stands today in a quiet and beautiful village amid green paddy fields. There is an interesting legend about why the Lord is called Munkudumeeswarar. Apparently in ancient times, it was customary for the local king to be presented with the offerings to the Lord (the Prashadam) after the morning pooja. One day the king noticed a long strand of hair in the bunch of flowers in the Prashadam. He was annoyed. The priest’s wife or the queen (different versions put the blame on different women) had worn the flowers on their hair which was taboo. The priest wanted to protect the lady involved and lied. He told the king that the Lord had grown hair. The king insisted that he would come the next morning to inspect the idol and if the priest had lied, his head would be chopped off. In answer to the priest’s fervent entreaties, the Lord grew a tuft of hair, a forelock or Munkudumi (முன்குடுமி) and to this day the idol has a forelock. Ponvilaintha Kalathur means the village of the golden harvest. There are also many legends why this village got that name. The story goes that the Lord provided a harvest of gold to a poor farmer to get him out of trouble. There are many versions. The author of the Nalavenba the poet Pukazhenthi was born here. It is also the birthplace of Kootruvanayanar one of the 63 Nayanmar. This is a temple I have been wanting to visit for a very long time. For ten or more years I have read about it, looked at pictures and videos and when we finally reached there, it gave me a feeling of deja vu and goose bumps. This is an ASI administered Sivan temple and hardly anybody visits there. It is an inactive or minimally active temple and a priest conducts a pooja early in the morning and leaves. The temple is locked for the rest of the day. When we went there, the ASI guard opened the gate for us and then ran into the village to fetch the priest, who graciously opened the temple for us, conducted poojas at both sanctums, gave us a tour of the premises and explained the history and legends. We thought that they mistook us for some very important people they were expecting. We felt truly blessed. It is about 8 kms from Chengalpattu and is about 75 km or 2 hours from Chennai. We visited in May 2023. We were based in Chennai. Credits: Google Maps

வாசீசுவரர் திருக்கோயில், திருப்பாசூர் This Paadal Petra Sivasthalam is found about 50 km west of Chennai. Thirugnanasampanthar and Thirunavukkarasar have composed pathikams in praise of the Lord here. Gnanasampanthar sang thus: சிந்தை யிடையார் தலையின் மிசையார் செஞ்சொல்லார் வந்து மாலை வைகும் போழ்தென் மனத்துள்ளார் மைந்தர் மணாள ரென்ன மகிழ்வாரூர்போலும் பைந்தண் மாதவி சோலை சூழ்ந்த பாசூரே Legends say that in the time of Karikal Valavan, the 3rd century CE Chola king, a group of men were clearing a bamboo forest with adzes (an axe like tool) when they struck the Sivalingam that is consecrated here. Vasi - வாசி - means an adze and Paasu- பாசு- is another word for bamboo in Tamil. Thus the Lord here is named Vaseeswarar and the temple became Thirupaasur. It is believed that the Lord fell in love with the Goddess here. That is why she is called Thankathali Amman- தங்காதலி- தன் காதலி. Young couples come here to be blessed with a happy married life. There are 16 sets of inscriptions here and 5 of them are in good condition and are very important. There are inscriptions of Rajarajan, Kulothunga I and Rajendra Chola III. A Pallava temple converted to a granite Chola temple, it retains a lot of the Pallava imprints in the inner core. The columns in the 2nd prakaram are circular in shape, simple in form and are from late Pallava or early Chola times. Very different from the later Chola, Vijayanagar and Nayakkan columns that are much more ornate. Much of the masonry including the 5 tier rajagopuram and the gopuram-shaped vimanam of the Amman Sannithy are from Vijayanagar times in the 16th century. The vimanam over the Sivan Sannithy is of the Gajaprishta or Thoonganai Maadam (தூங்கானை மாடம்) type. It is supposed to be shaped like an elephant’s back. Gaja is elephant and Prishta is back in Sanskrit. This feature was very popular in the Thondai Mandalam temples in the 10th to 12th centuries and were built by the Cholas. Long neglected and in a condition of decay until recently, it has now been renovated and looked nice when we visited. It is under the control of the HR and CE department of the Government of Tamil Nadu. It is located about 1 hour or 50 km west of Chennai. We visited in May 2023. We were based in Chennai. Credits: Google Maps

அகத்தீசுவரர் திருக்கோயில், பொழிச்சலூர், சென்னை This ancient Chola Sivan temple is one the nine temples around Chennai which are known as the Navagraha temples of Chennai. It is dedicated to Lord Saneeswarar or Saturn. It is also called the Pozhichalur Saneeswarar temple and is popular for this reason. It is also sometimes referred to as Vada Thirunallar, Thirunallar being the most famous Saneeswarar temple. That temple is in the Kaveri Delta, near Kumbakonam. Despite its significance, today this temple is a shadow of it former glory. It is in a poor neighbourhood and has been heavily encroached upon on all sides as is common at various minor temples in Chennai. Renovated without archeological supervision, a lot of the historical features such as inscriptions have been lost. Gaudily repainted, it looks nice in a way, but certainly could be maintained better. One feature that stands out nicely is the Gajaprishta Vimanam or Thoonganai Maadam and the apsidal walls of the sanctum which are clearly visible here. The sanctum looks like original Chola construction. The vimanam likely has been rebuilt in modern times, retaining the original style. It lacks a rajagopuram and has a mottaigopuram. The temple was initially built in the 12th century. It is controlled by the HR and CE and is an example of how a historically important temple should not be maintained. It indeed makes you sad. It is located in Chennai very close to the airport. We visited in May 2023. Credits: Google Maps

சுப்பிரமணிய சுவாமி திருக்கோயில், திருத்தணி Situated about 2.5 hours west of Chennai, this is an ancient and important Murugan temple. Its antiquity is evident from its mention in Nakkeerar’s Thirumurugatruppadai - திருமுருகாற்றுப்படை, the 3rd century CE Sangam work. Legends abound. It is celebrated in the 14th century work by Arunagirinathar, the Thirupuhazh (திருப்புகழ்). The structures that exist today are from the Vijayanagar era in the 16th century and later. It sits on top of a hill 700 feet above sea level. There are 365 steps that stand for the days in a year, to climb to get to the top. There is a motorable road leading up to the temple now. It is one of the Arupadai Veedu - ஆறு படை வீடு - the 6 Abodes of Lord Murugan or the 6 encampments of Lord Murugan reflecting his martial nature. The other 5 are Palani, Thiruparankundram, Pazhamuthircholai, Swamimalai and Thiruchendur. It is a very popular pilgrimage site. It is located about 90 km or 2.5 hours west of Chennai. We visited in May 2023. We were based in Chennai. Credits: Google Maps

சலநாதீசுவரர் திருக்கோயில், தக்கோலம் Known in ancient times as Thiruvooral (திருவூறல்), this beautiful Sivan temple is a Paadal Petra Sthalam. It is believed that there was a natural spring that was fashioned into a fountain and water poured out of the Nandi’s mouth and reached the nearby Kallaru (known today as Kusithalai River or Kosasthalayar in its lower reaches). Hence the name Ooral-ஊறல். This is not evident now. Thirugnanasampanthar sang the pathikam for this temple. மாறில் அவுணரரணம் மவைமாயவோர் வெங்கணையா லன்று நீறெழ எய்தவெங்கள் நிமலன் இடம்வினவில் தேறல் இரும்பொழிலும் திகழ்செங்கயல் பாய்வயலுஞ் சூழ்ந்த ஊறல் அமர்ந்தபிரான் ஒலியார்கழல் உள்குதுமே. Although the temple had existed in the 7th century when Sampanthar visited there, it was built as a stone temple by Aparajithavarman, the last Pallava emperor in 876 CE. The core architecture still shows the Pallava influence. The 3 tier, squat and solid rajagopuram was built in 1543 CE by the Vijayanagara emperor Veera Pradhaba Sadasiva Maharaya. This temple bore witness to one of the most significant battles in Tamil history - the Battle of Thakkolam (தக்கோலப்போர்) - fought in late 948 or early 949 CE, between the emerging Cholas and the Rashtrakutas for control of South India. Crown prince Rajaditya Cholan, eldest son of Paranthakan I, heir apparent and very capable general, met Krishna III and his invading Rashtrakuta forces just outside of this town. The Cholas lost badly and Rajadityan was killed. The exact nature of his death is unclear but it is believed that an arrow pierced his chest while he was on his war elephant - later Chola inscriptions mention him as - யானை மீது துஞ்சிய தேவர் ( The Lord who died on an elephant). The Chola garrison at Thakkolam was almost annihilated. The death toll exceeded a hundred thousand. The blood flowed like a river it is said and reddened the waters of the Kallaru. The famed Chola army retreated in disarray and Thanjavur was briefly occupied and ransacked. It took several years to rebuild Chola strength after this defeat, but they went on to win many more battles during the time of Sundara Cholan (Paranthakan II) - Rajaditiyan’s nephew, his younger brother Arinjayan’s son and Rajarajan’s father. As we drove away from this historic town, we couldn’t help gazing at the peaceful, green fields with cattle and water buffalo grazing on the verdant grass and wonder about the thousands who died here more than a thousand years ago. The temple is situated close to Thiruvalankadu and is about 2 hours or 64 km west of Chennai. We visited in May 2023. We were based in Chennai. Credits: Google Maps

வடாரண்யேசுவரர் திருக்கோயில், திருவாலங்காடு This is a very significant temple for Tamil Saivite Hindus. A Sivan temple that is about 2 hours west of Chennai, it is a vast and beautiful temple with a lot of legends and an amazing history. It is a Paadal Petra Sthalam and one of only 44 where all three of the Moovar (Sampanthar, Appar and Suntharar) have rendered pathikams. This temple is associated with Karaikkal Ammaiyar (காரைக்கால் அம்மையார்), one of only three females among the 63 Nayanmar. Karaikal Ammaiayar was born into a rich merchant family in Karaikal near Nagapattinam. Her name at birth was Punithavathi. She lived in the 5th century. She became a Saivite ascetic at a young age and dedicated her life to the service of the Lord. She spent her last days here at Thiruvalangadu before she died. The original temple was under a banyan tree in a banyan forest. Aal (ஆல்) is a banyan tree in Tamil. Kaadu (காடு) is a forest. The tree is still venerated in this temple. This is one of the 5 Pancha Sabai Temples - the five dancing halls - the 5 temples where the Lord performed his cosmic dance. Chidambaram is the Golden Hall - the Potsabai or Ponnambalam (பொற்சபை). The Silver Hall - the வெள்ளி சபை - is in Madurai. The Nellaiappar at Thirunelvely is the தாமிரசபை- the Hall of Copper. At Kutralam is the Hall of Paintings - the Chitra Sabai (சித்திரசபை). Here at Thiruvalankadu is the Hall of Jewels or Gems - the Ratna Sabai (இரத்தின சபை). The story is that once Lord Siva and the Goddess got into an intense dance competition. When the Lord’s earring fell to the floor he picked it with the toes of his left foot and put it on again. The Goddess could not match this kind of agility and conceded defeat. The dance the Lord performed here is the Oorthuvathandavam (ஊர்த்துவ தாண்டவம்). Here like in many Sivan temples, the Goddess takes precedence and it is customary to worship the Goddess at her shrine before proceeding to the Siva shrine. Originally a Pallava brick structure, it was turned into a granite temple by the Cholas and was greatly expanded by Kulothunga I. A long line of monarchs from Paranthakan I to Vijayanagar kings have left their mark here. It is located about 65 km or 2 hours west of Chennai. We visited in May 2023. We were based in Chennai. For us, this visit completed our visits to all five of the Pancha Sabais and was a very fulfilling experience. Credits: Google Maps

வேதபுரீசுவரர் திருக்கோயில், திருவோத்தூர், செய்யாறு A 2 hour drive from Pondicherry and 3 hours from Chennai, is this very old temple with numerous legends around it and a very ancient history. The original temple has existed here at least since the 6th century. A brick structure during Pallava times, it was rebuilt in granite by the Cholas and added onto in later eras. Adityan I is supposed to have built the granite structure but the first inscriptions date back to his son Paranthakan I. Every major Chola king including Rajarajan and Rajendran I, have left inscriptions here. There are also inscriptions from later Pandian, Rashtrakuta, Kadava and Sambuvarayan kings. Lord Siva himself is supposed to have expounded the Vedas to the sages here. Hence the name Vedapureeswarar for the Lord here. The place is also called Thiruvethipuram for the same reason. Thiruvothur also comes from Othu (ஓது) which stands for reciting the Vedas. The Nandi here faces the opposite direction and is looking outwards towards the Rajagopuram. Usually the Nandi faces the sanctum. This is a rare exception only found in a very few temples. The explanation is that Nandi was guarding the temple while Lord Siva was explaining the meaning of the Vedas to the sages. There are other legends about the reason too. This is a Paadal Petra Sthalam and Thirugnasampanthar sang the pathikam. Thirunavukkarasar has also been here but the pathikam has never been found. In the early 7th century, the story goes that this place was mostly inhabited by people of the Jain faith. There was an old man who was looking after this temple who was a devotee of Lord Siva. He was poor and once planted a grove of palmyrah trees to make ends meet. But when the trees grew to maturity, they turned out to be male trees which did not bear any fruit. (The palmyrah palm has a male and female tree apparently and only the female tree bears fruit). The Jains made fun of the old man and his Lord. They swore that they would convert to Saivism if Lord Siva could turn the male trees into female ones. Thirugnanasampanthar is supposed to have come here on his wanderings and having heard the plight of the old man, sang the pathikam and all the male palmyrah trees became female in due course and bore fruit. பூத் தேர்ந்து ஆயன கொண்டு, நின் பொன் அடி ஏத்தாதார் இல்லை, எண்ணுங்கால் ஓத்தூர் மேய ஒளி மழுவாள் அங்கைக் கூத்தீர்! உம குணங்களே. With a tall 7 tier rajagopuram and several sub-shrines, it is a beautiful temple. Recently renovated, it looks neat and nice. It is another temple that celebrates the palmyrah tree which is the temple tree here. There is an interesting sculpture of a palmyrah tree inside the temple which is half male and half female. It is located about a 100 km southwest of Chennai and about a 100 km northwest of Pondicherry. The drive is about 3 hours from Chennai and 2 hours from Pondicherry. We visited in May 2023. We were based in Pondicherry. Credits: Google Maps

வேதபுரீசுவரர் திருக்கோயில், புதுச்சேரி This is an ancient and popular temple within the city of Pondicherry. It is a Sivan temple. Originally built in Cholan times, it was completely demolished by French troops in 1748 when Joseph Francois Dupleix was governor of French India. Several of the idols were salvaged from the rubble by volunteers and hidden in nearby smaller temples and the nearby Varatharaja Perumal temple. It was reconstructed by locals in 1788 with permission from the French government. The presiding deity was repatriated here from a small temple in the vicinity and reconsecrated only in the 19th century. Today it is a calm oasis in a very hectic part of town. Its towering 7 tier rajagopuram fronts onto a busy street It is located in the heart of Pondicherry city. We visited in May 2023. We stayed in Pondicherry. Credits: Google Maps

தாளகிரீசுவரர் கோயில், பனைமலை About 90 km due west of Pondicherry lies this historic Sivan temple set amongst lush green fields and rocky outcrops. The temple is atop a small hill literally in the middle of nowhere. The location is serene. Built by the great Pallava king Narasimhavarman II also known as Rajasimhan (CE 700- 728), it is one the earliest structural stone temples to be built that is still standing. Rajasimhan also built the better known Shore Temple at Mahabalipuram and the Kailasanathar at Kanchipuram. They were all built around the same time. Heavily vandalized over the centuries, what remains is still truly beautiful. With its large lion motifs, the characteristic Somaskanda relief panel and Sanskrit inscriptions in fluid grantha ( கிரந்தை), it has all the trappings of a Pallava monument. The atmosphere is peaceful and you can appreciate the handiwork of the Pallava stonemasons and sculptors at leisure, far from the maddening crowds. It is indeed a hidden treasure. Thaal means palmyrah and giri means hill in Sanskrit. Panai is Tamil for palmyrah and malai means hill. So Thaalagiri and Panamalai mean the same thing. 1300 years ago the hill must have been full of palmyrah trees. Although the country around has a lot these trees, there aren’t too many on the hill. Although this is an ASI property, it needs better care. It is essentially a dead temple. There is a tribe of monkeys that live on this hill and sometimes bother visitors. Luckily for us, they had left for another hillock nearby that morning to look for food and we did not encounter them. I did not take my big camera up the hill because of the monkeys. They tend to grab things that you carry. The photos were all taken using my iPhone except for the long shot for which I used my Nikon DSLR. It is located about 1.5 hours or 90 km west of Pondicherry near Viluppuram. We visited in May 2023. We were based in Pondicherry. Credits: Google Maps

வரதராஜ பெருமாள் திருக்கோயில், புதுச்சேரி Situated in the heart of Pondicherry city and within walking distance of the Vedapureeswarar Sivan Koil and on the same street, is this historic temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu. With its imposing 5 tier rajagopuram and large premises, it is a grand temple. Although a lot of temples were destroyed in this area during earlier Muslim invasions and later by the French, this temple has miraculously survived. Built in the 11th century by Chola kings and later expanded by the Pandians, a lot of renovations and recent additions give it a relatively modern look. The original core structures are still present with numerous, invaluable inscriptions. There is an inscription here dated to 1048, describing a donation for the eternal recital of the Thiruvaimozhi. It is a protected monument under the care of the ASI and is jointly administered by the HR and CE Department of the Government of Pondicherry. It is located in Pondicherry city. We visited in May 2023. We stayed in Pondicherry. Varadharajaperumal Pondicherry Varadharajaperumal Pondicherry Credits: Google Maps

கைலாசநாதர் திருக்கோயில், காஞ்சிபுரம் Kanchipuram is a city of temples. They are quite numerous here. This ancient city is one of the oldest cities in India and is well-known as a spiritual and religious centre for centuries. It once served as the capital of the Pallava kings who ruled from this region from the 6th century to the 9th century. Later it was a regional capital of the Cholas when they ruled over the Thondai Mandalam, as this region was called, from the 10th century to the 13th century. So, a lot of history here. The Kailasanathar is perhaps the oldest temple in Kanchipuram and one of the earliest structural temples to be built in the Tamil country. It is a Sivan temple. It was built by the Pallava king Narasimhavarman II or Rajasimhan around 700 CE. It is built of sandstone which is not as durable as granite and is subject to erosion from wind and rain. The vimanam is quite beautiful and is often claimed that this served as an inspiration for Rajarajan to build the massive vimanam in Thanjavur. There are beautiful sculptures throughout the complex. The lion motifs of the Pallavas are found in abundance. It is an inactive or partially active temple these days. It is under the control of the Archeological Survey of India, the ASI and is a UNESCO world heritage site. It is located in Kanchipuram about 2 hours or 76 km southwest of Chennai. Unfortunately I cannot find the photos of the vimanam and outer structures, I took during our visit, My photos do not do justice to the beauty of this temple. We have stuck to our own photos to abide by our strict rule to use only photos that we have taken ourselves. The reader is encouraged to do a brief search on the web to find more photos. We visited in July 2010. We were based in Chennai. Credits: Google Maps