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- Temples of Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry #72: Padaleswarar Temple, Thirupathiripuliyur
பாடலேசுவரர் அல்லது பாடலீசுவரர் திருக்கோயில், திருப்பாதிரிப்புலியூர் This very ancient Sivan temple is south of Pondicherry in the Tamil Nadu town of Cuddalore. It is steeped in Saivite history and lore and is a very important temple. They say that to worship here once is equal to worshiping 16 times in Kashi, 8 times in Thiruvannamalai and 3 times in Chidambaram. It is a Paadal Petra Sthalam. When Thirunavukkarasar renounced Jainism and became Saivite again, it made the Jain monks very angry. They complained to the Pallava king Mahendravarman who was the ruler at that time and was a devout Jain. Thirunavukkarasar was arrested and tortured. First they tried to poison him and then they threw him into a lime kiln. Nothing happened to him. Finally they tied him to a stone pillar and threw him into the sea. The pillar became buoyant and he floated up the Kedilam river and came ashore close to this temple. Here he sang the well known pathikam, the Namashivaya Pathikam, "Sotrunai Vethiyan Sothi Vaanavan" that is so familiar to most of us சொற்றுணை வேதியன் சோதி வானவன் பொற்றுணைத் திருந்தடி பொருந்தக் கைதொழக் கற்றுணைப் பூட்டியோர் கடலிற் பாய்ச்சினும் நற்றுணை யாவது நமச்சி வாயவே. The place where he came ashore is still venerated. A small temple has been built there and the place is called Karaiyeravittakuppam (கரையேறவிட்டகுப்பம்) in the area of Cuddalore called Puthuvandipaalayam. We had some difficulty finding it. But it was a rewarding experience. This temple has many stories and legends. The boy saint Thirugnanasampanthar addressed Thirunavukkarasar as Appar for the first time here. The tiger footed Rishi Vyagrapada worshipped here. Hence the name puliyur. The temple itself has been present before the time of Appar. The Pallavas and then the Cholas did a lot of the initial building and the core still has elements from those times. But it has been renovated and rebuilt so many times during Nayakkan times and most recently by the Pudukottai Nagarathar (Chettiar) in 1917 and by local people in 1973, that the current structures are a combination of many different architectural styles. The Nayakkan architecture stands out the most. It had suffered a lot of damage due to wars and invasion given its strategic location. It was damaged badly by the Anglo - French wars of the 18th century. It is a large and a very busy temple. Given its location in an urban setting and its importance, a lot of people visit here. It was difficult to take pictures. It is located in the town of Cuddalore in Tamil Nadu, about 25 km or 45 minutes by car south of Pondicherry. The place is often referred to as Thirupapuliyur for short. We visited in May 2023. We stayed in Pondicherry. Credits: Google Maps
- Temples of Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry #73: Mulanathaswamy Temple, Bahour, Pondicherry
திருமூலநாதசுவாமி திருக்கோயில், பாகூர், புதுச்சேரி This is an interesting Sivan temple in Pondicherry which is an odd combination of architectural styles from different eras which are beautifully intertwined. The original temple is believed to have been built by the Pallavas in the 7th century. The copper plates of Pallava king Nirupathungavarman mention this temple in the 9th century. In the 10th century Paranthaka Cholan I, completely revamped it. The Nayakkans added columns and a small mandapam. And the French renovated it in the 19th and 20th centuries. So the base pedestal or upapitha of the sanctum with carvings of dancing girls etc. is clearly Pallava. The walls with numerous inscriptions, the koshta idols, the Boothagana frieze under the cornice, the yali frieze and the koodus wth human faces are all Cholan. The Vimanam is modern and built by the French. One of the statuettes is actually of a Frenchman. Can you spot him? The front part of the temple was rebuilt by the French and is clearly European. This is an ASI property. It is located in the southern part of Pondicherry about 20 kms or 45 minutes from downtown Pondicherry. We visited in May 2023. We stayed in Pondicherry. Credits: Google Maps
- Temples of Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry #74: Thodatri Perumal Temple or Varadharaja Perumal Temple, Thirubhuvanai
திரு தோதாத்திரிநாத வரதராஜப் பெருமாள் கோயில், திருபுவனை This is an ancient temple in the outskirts of Pondicherry again built by Paranthakan I (great grandfather of Raja Rajan) in the early to mid 10th century. It is a Vishnu temple. It has characteristic Chola architecture but has features like the kodimaram likely added at a later age. It has a flat rajagopuram. The structure sits on a pedestal or raised platform. It is considered a treasure-house of Chola art and architecture and contains a number fine sculptures and structures. There are inscriptions from the 11th century attributed to Rajendra Chola I and his son Rajadhi Raja I describing the recitation of the Vedas and the Thiruvaimozhi from the works of the Aalwaar saint Nammalvar. This area was caught up in the Carnatic wars between the English and the French in the 18th century and many temples were completely destroyed as a result. This temple is one of a few that had been miraculously spared intact. It as a relatively small temple. Although administered by the ASI, it is an active temple. It is located about 20 kms or 40 minutes west of Pondicherry. We visited in May 2023. We stayed in Pondicherry. Credits: Google Maps
- Temples of Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry #76: Thirukundankudi Mahadeva Temple, Madagadipattu
திருக்குந்தன்குடி மகாதேவர் கோயில், மதகடிபட்டு This small but important Sivan temple also known as Thirukundankuzhi Mahadevar (திருக்குந்தன்குழி மகாதேவர்) temple is tucked away in rural Pondicherry. Built in the late 10th century by none other than Raja Raja Cholan I, it is hard to believe that the same king who built the Great Temple at Thanjavur built this little temple too. But the inscriptions here clearly say that it was commissioned by him. Later inscriptions from Rajendra Chola I and Kulothunga Chola I, also are found here. There are two primary structures, a sanctum housing a Sivalingam and another for the goddess. The niches or Koshtas are empty as the idols have been removed some time ago to be housed in the museum in Pondicherry for security. It is essentially a dead or inactive temple with an Archakar doing a pooja once a day. It is an ASI (Archaeological Survey of India) property and considered a monument of national importance. As such it is maintained well. It is built completely of solid granite and has withstood the ravages of the elements and humans for a thousand years. Devoid of a rajagopuram or kodimaram, it is representative of early Chola temples without the expansions that came with later dynasties. It is located about 25 km or 45 minutes west of Pondicherry. We visited in May 2023. We were based in Pondicherry. Credits: Google Maps
- Temples of Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry #77: Marundeeswarar Temple, Thiruvanmiyur, Chennai
மருந்தீசுவரர் திருக்கோயில், திருவான்மியூர், சென்னை Marundhu means medicine in Tamil. Lord Siva manifests as a healer. at this temple. It is believed that people with incurable diseases have sought his blessings here from time immemorial. The Lord here is also known to protect devotees from future illness and bless them with good health. Thus it is a very popular temple. Located in the heart of the bustling southern suburb of Thiruvanmiyur in Chennai, it is a very ancient temple. As a Paadal Petra Sthalam sung in praise by Thirugnanasampanthar and Naavukkarasar, it must have existed in some form in the early seventh century. Together with the Kapaleeswarar at Mylapur and the Thiyagaraja Swamy temple at Thiruvottriyur, it forms the trinity of ancient shore temples of the Thondai Mandalam. Today the very busy East Coast Road or ECR abuts it on the west side. This road was known as the Vadugaperuvazhi (வடுகப்பெருவழி) in imperial Chola times and was an important route for trade and conquest. It was the gateway to the northern Andhra country. As such the location of this temple was very strategic and gave it a lot of importance. The inscriptions here, which are many, bear witness to this. With obscure origins, it was extensively renovated by the Cholas in the 11nth century, by Rajendra Cholan I and others. It has been renovated many times over the centuries ,most recently in the early 20th century and in 1970. The last Kumbabishekam was in 2008. The imposing Rajagopuram over the eastern entrance was only reconstructed within the last 50 years. Thus it sports a relatively modern look. The inner ancient core is intact. The whole temple complex is about an acre in area. The Lord faces west, which is rare as in most temples the sanctum faces east or sometimes north. Although the main entrance is on the West, the road is very busy there and most people enter from the east. There are three rajagopurams, two in the east and one in the west. There are two prominent sacred water bodies, one between the two rajagopurams in the east and the other just outside the outer rajagopuram of the east entrance. The Amman sannithy of Thiripurasundari is to the right as you go through the second rajagopuram in the east. The sculpture of Lord Sarabeshwarar (a fierce form of Lord Shiva) on one of the pillars in front of the Amman sannithy, is very special. The Vanni tree is the sthala virutcham and is much revered. It is on the south side of the temple. If you enter from the east, as most people do, you will veer left and go past the Thiyagaraja mandapam and enter the sanctum of Lord Siva on the south side and turn left, We visited in August 2017 and August 2024. We stayed in Chennai. Credits: Google Maps
- Temples of Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry #78: Saluvankuppam Murugan Temple
சாளுவன்குப்பம் முருகன் கோவில் Which is the oldest temple in Tamil Nadu? It is a tough question because many of the temples are extremely difficult to date precisely as the core of these temples, which are the most ancient parts, are often hidden and obscured by later rebuilding and renovation over many centuries. But there is one ancient and ruined temple very close to Chennai that was unearthed after the tsunami in 2004, which many historians and archaeologists believe is the oldest temple structure discovered so far. After the tsunami receded in 2004, it left exposed some rock inscriptions pointing to a temple nearby on the seashore at Saluvankuppam just north of the famous UNESCO world heritage site of Mahabalipuram. Very close to the Tiger Cave site of the same period as the Pallava Monuments at Mahabalipuram, the ruins of this temple were buried under the sand for many centuries. There is evidence of an old brick temple belonging to the 2nd century BCE that appears to have been destroyed possibly by an earlier tsunami. Tsunamis likely occurred many times on this coast over the millennia. A second temple appears to have been constructed on the ruins of the older temple in the 8th century which also has been destroyed in the 13th century after which it lay buried until 2004. It is believed to be a Murugan temple as there is a structure which appears to be a Vel at the front of the complex. The other pre-Pallava temple ruin in existence is the Veetriruntha Perumal temple at Veppathur in the Kaveri delta. The site lies 52 km or 1 hour south of Chennai and 12 minutes north of Mahabalipuram off the East Coast Road. Signage and access are very poor. The best access is through the Tiger Cave complex and there is a gate at the north boundary to access the site which is visible from that point. The access is a footpath. No signs for such an important and significant monument. The site is fenced but the gate was open and it was unguarded when we visited in August 2017. A major act of vandalism occurred in 2018 which almost caused irreparable damage to the site. Credits: Google Maps
- Temples of Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry #79: Sivanandeeswarar Temple, Thirukandalam
சிவானந்தீசுவரர் திருக்கோயில், திருக்கண்டலம் Nestled in a small village, surrounded by beautiful and verdant green fields, this ancient Sivan temple is located close to Chennai. It lies in a quiet and serene village. It used to be in the midst of a Kalli (கள்ளி) forest. Kalli is a cactus like tree that is the Sthala Virutcham here. Thus the Lord here is also known as the Kalleeswarar. In ancient times this village was called Thirukkallil (திருக்கள்ளில்). It is a relatively small temple and was in a very dilapidated condition until recently. Over the last 50 years or so, many of the ancient structures have been renovated. The main sanctum is made of granite and is intact although encased in a recent layer of stucco and painted over giving it a modern look. The small vimanam is of Gajaprishta or Thoonganai Maadam type which was frequently built in the later Chola era and is common in Thondai Mandala temples of that period. It has been rebuilt in modern times. The other structures appear to be constructed of a softer stone and are crumbling. The stucco coat appears to be holding them up and giving them a new look. The priest told me that the authorities have told the local people that no further structural changes should be made without the input of archeologists. Another kumbabishekam is imminent. It is a beautiful temple, venerated in the Thevaram by Thirugnasampanthar and is thus a Paadal Petra Sthalam. As such it must have existed in some form in the early seventh century. The construction of the earliest existing structures are credited to the Cholas with an inscription attributed to Vikrama Cholan present on the base of the Sivan sanctum. Later contributions were from Vijayanagar and Nayakkan kings, Much of the structures that are prominent today are of modern construction with plenty of concrete and stucco. The temple has some very unique features. The main shrine to Lord Siva and the shrine to the Amman are both facing east with the Amman shrine to the left of the sanctum sanctorum. Between these two shrines is located the smaller shrine to Lord Skanda giving the temple a Somaskanda configuration. There is a separate shrine for Sivan as Lord Dakshinamurthy the teacher, which has a very unique idol of Dakshinamurthy with the Goddess by his side and with his arm around her. Legend says that the Lord taught the great sage Brihu an important lesson here that the Lord and Shakthi are equal and the same. There is a beautiful tank with clean water adjacent to the temple which is the theertham. There is a legend that when Sampanthar and his group were passing by this village he decided to take a dip in the nearby Kosasthalayar river. When he came out of the water, he could not find his spare clothes. At someone's advice he visited this small temple where he found his bundle of clothes. It was as if the Lord stole his clothes to force him to visit here. He sang thus: முள்ளின்மேல் முதுகூகை முரலுஞ் சோலை வெள்ளின்மேல் விடுகூறைக் கொடி விளைந்த கள்ளில்மேய அண்ணல் கழல்கள் நாளும் உள்ளுமேல் உயர்வெய்தல் ஒரு தலையே. The temple is located about 36 km or an hour northwest of Chennai. We visited in August 2024. Credits: Google Maps
- Temples of Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry #80: Maasilamaniswarar Temple, Thirumullaivayil, Thiruvallur
மாசிலாமணீசுவரர் திருக்கோயில், வடதிருமுல்லைவாயில், திருவள்ளூர் This ancient Paadal Petra Sivasthalam is found just west of Chennai and falls within one of the western suburbs of the city. Easily accessible, it is a popular and well known temple. There is another Paadal Petra Sthalam in the Kaveri Delta near Sirkazhi also known as Thirumullaivayil. Thus this temple near Chennai is known as Vadathirumullaivayil (the northern one) and the other Thenthirumullaivayil (the southern one). Sundarar rendered the pathikam here and he describes it in the 8th century. There are some Pallava elements including some lion columns. But the bulk of the construction seems to have happened during the medieval Chola period. There is an inscription attributed to Uthama Cholan (CE 970-985). There is another describing the contribution made by his mother, the great Chola queen Sembian Mahadevi. This is the northernmost temple that she has contributed to. There is also an inscription from Parthivendravarman, Pallava prince and Chola feudatory from the same period which mentions the battle of Thakkolam fought nearby in the year 949. There are inscriptions from later periods including, Rajendran I (1012-1044) and other Chola kings up to the 13th century. There also inscriptions from the reigns of Jatavarman Sundara Pandian from the late 13th century and Vijaya Nagar kings like Harihara Raya II and Mallikarjuna Raya from the 14th and 15th centuries. Legends abound here. It is said that this was a Mullai (a variety of Jasmine) forest in olden days and two tyrants named Vaanan and Onan inhabited it. They terrorized the local population and the king at the time named Thondaiman went out to subdue them. As the king was wading through Mullai creepers on his elephant, cutting through the thick jungle with his sword, he accidentally hit a lingam with his sword. He defeated the tyrants and built a temple for the Lord in the Mullai forest. He captured two massive wooden staffs made out of Vellurukku wood that were the symbols of power of the two demons. The two wooden pillars make up the entrance way to the sanctum sanctorum and are seen to this day. At about an acre in area, this is a moderate sized temple with two prakarams. There is a 5 tier rajagopuram over the south entrance. The sanctums of the Lord and the Goddess are interchanged here contrary to usual custom. The goddess is on the left of the Lord or to the right as we face them. They are parallel to each other and face east. The sanctum sanctorum of Sivan has a Gajaprishta Vimanam or a Thoonganai Maadam commonly built in this region during the later Chola period. The Nandi here faces outwardly and in the opposite direction to the sanctum. It is customary for the Nandi to face the Lord. Legend says that the Nandi accompanied King Thondaiman on his expedition to subdue the demons on the Lord's instructions and hence the direction of the Nandi. Some other temples in the region have the same configuration with similar stories. The sthalavirutcham is of course the Mullai. There is a large beautiful temple pond which is the main theertham. There are numerous subsidiary shrines in the outer prakaram. The temple is also important as a Shakti shrine. Together with the Vadivudai Amman at Thiruvottriyur ( Gnanasakthi - goddess of knowledge power), the Thiruvudai Amman at Minjur ( Ichasakthi- goddess of willpower), the Kodiydai Amman (Kriyasakthi - goddess of action) here is one of the three most important Sakthi sthalams in the Thondai Mandalam. Sundarar describes the Lord here in the 8th century thus: திருவுமெய்ப் பொருளுஞ் செல்வமும் எனக்குன் சீருடைக் கழல்கள்என் றெண்ணி ஒருவரை மதியா துறாமைகள் செய்தும் ஊடியும் உறைப்பனாய்த் திரிவேன் முருகமர் சோலை சூழ்திரு முல்லை வாயிலாய் வாயினால் உன்னைப் பரவிடும் அடியேன் படுதுயர் களையாய் பாசுப தாபரஞ் சுடரே. The temple is located about an hour's drive or 23 km from the centre of Chennai. We visited in August 2024. Credits: Google Maps
- Temples of Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry #81: Vedapureeswarar Temple, Thiruverkadu
வேதபுரீசுவரர் திருக்கோயில், திருவேற்காடு The western suburb of the city of Chennai called Thiruverkadu is known for the popular Devi Karumariamman temple. But the more ancient and lesser known temple here is the Vedapureeswarar Sivan Temple that has been in existence at least since the early seventh century. Like a number of ancient Sivan temples, it is likely much older. It is a Paadal Petra Sivasthalam and as such we can confirm that it was here in some form at the time the Thevarams were composed. The earliest existing structures and inscriptions here are credited to the Cholas. The temple has architectural features pointing to the later Cholas in the 11th and 12th centuries. Much of the present masonry is from the Nayakkan period. It was renovated in 1973 in modern times. It is currently owned and administered by the Hindu Religious and Charitable Endowments Department of the Government of Tamil Nadu, the HR and CE, with nominal oversight by the Devi Karumariamman Temple Trust. It is a moderate sized temple at 1.5 acres in area with a spacious outer prakaram. There are three prakarams. It is an east facing temple with a five-tiered rajagopuram. The Sivan sanctum sanctorum has an apsidal shape and Gajaprishta Vimanam or Thoonganai Maadam like many Chola temples in the Thondai Mandalam from the same period. There is a smaller shrine for Goddess Balambikai the consort. The shrine for Lord Murugan has a lingam in front which is unusual. Lord Murugan here is found holding a bow and an arrow and not a spear. The Navagraha shrine is octagonal in shape. The sthala Virutcham is the Velvela tree. There is a large temple pond with steps on all sides, which is the main theertham here. Legend says that Lord Sivan and Goddess Parvathi gave dharshan to the sage Agasthiya here in their Kalyana Kolam and like many other temples in the south it is celebrated for the event. One of the 63 Saivite Nayanmar, Moorka Nayanar was born here. Thirugnanasampanthar praises the Lord at this temple when he visited here thus: ஒள்ளி துள்ளக் கதிக்கா மிவனொளி வெள்ளி யானுறை வேற்காடு உள்ளி யாருயர்ந் தாரிவ் வுலகினில் தெள்ளி யாரவர் தேவரே. The temple is located about 20 km or an hour west of the centre of Chennai city. We visited in August 2024, We were based in Chennai. Credits: Google Maps
- Temples of Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry #82: Parthasarathy Perumal Temple, Triplicane, Chennai
பார்த்தசாரதி பெருமாள் திருக்கோயில், திருவள்ளிக்கேணி Parthasarathy Thiruvallikkeni Parthasarathy Thiruvallikkeni ----------------------Parthasarathy Thiruvallikkeni One of the oldest temples within the city of Chennai, this ancient Vishnu temple celebrates Lord Vishnu and his avatar Lord Krishna as the divine charioteer of Arjuna in the Mahabharatha. Partha is another name for Arjuna and Sarathy means driver or charioteer in this case. It is a Divya Desam Temple praised by the Alwaars in the Naalayira Divya Prabandham, the Tamil Vaishnavite collection of verses in praise of Lord Vishnu composed during the Bakthi Movement, towards the end of the first millennium. As such it has been in existence for more than 1200 years. There are clues that the temple is much older and was initially built in the 6th century. It is the only Divya Desam temple within the city limits of Chennai. The initial construction is attributed to the Pallavas. The Chola kings contributed much to the later additions and renovations. The Pandian, Vijayanagar and Nayakkan kings continued their contributions for centuries after. The earliest inscriptions are from the 8th century and belong to the Pallava kings Nandivarman and Dantivarman. Dantivarman has been responsible for the initial major expansion it seems. There are inscriptions from Raja Raja Cholan I, Kulothungan III and Maravarman Kulasekara Pandian I, who have all contributed to the renovation of this ancient temple during their reigns. There are also many inscriptions in Tamil and Telugu from Vijayanagar kings. It underwent a major renovation in 1564 during the Nayakkan period. The temple celebrates three other avatars of Lord Vishnu including his Narasimha, Varaha and Rama avatars besides Krishna with dedicated shrines to each. It is one of very few temples dedicated to Lord Krishna as Parthasarathy. Here Lord Krishna is the Uthsavamoorthy and is peculiarly depicted with a moustache. The temple was the scene of intense struggles between the Vadakalai and Thenkalai traditions of Sri Vaishnavism for control of the rituals in the 18h century leading to the take over of the temple by the British East India Company. The Thenkalai prevailed and is still practiced. Today it is controlled by the Hindu Religious and Charitable Endowments Department (HR and CE) of the Government of Tamil Nadu. The well known Tamil poet and independence activist Subramanya Bharathy was fond of this temple and was a frequent visitor here . He was struck by an elephant here and later died possibly due to injuries sustained during that incident. Swamy Vivekanada during his famous trip to Chicago in 1893 recalled this temple and wrote a letter in tribute to it. We visited in August 2017 and August 2024. We were based in Chennai. Unfortunately, due to the strict rules forbidding photography which we respected, we could not take many photos especially of the interior which is very beautiful. Credits: Google Maps
- Temples of Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry #83: Devi Karumariamman Temple, Thiruverkadu
தேவி கருமாரி அம்மன் திருக்கோயில் , திருவேற்காடு We recently featured the Vedapureeswarar Sivan Temple in Thiruverkadu which is lesser known but is the more ancient and historically significant temple in Thiruverkadu. There is another temple in Thiruverkadu, which is now a western suburb of the city of Chennai, which is by far the more well known and popular temple in this town. The area is synonymous with the Sakthi temple of Karumariamman and this temple deserves a dedicated post. People throng to this temple and many have deep faith in the power of the deity here. Although not an ancient temple, it has a lot of legend and aura around it. It started off as a small Amman temple beside an anthill and is associated with the worship of snakes. A giant anthill still exists right beside the temple and is highly venerated. Much of the structures are built in the current era. From its humble beginnings as a village shrine it has grown into a massive temple due to patronage by a large number of devotees. It is currently undergoing extensive renovation. Although the temple might not be attractive to temple lovers with a bent for history and antiquity, it is worth visiting to witness the importance the religion has for a large number of people. It showcases the vibrancy of the living religion. It is currently administered by the Hindu Religious and Charitable Endowments Department of the Government of Tamil Nadu. We visited in August 2024. We were based in Chennai. The temple is located about 20 km or an hour west of the centre of Chennai city. Credits: Google Maps
- Temples of Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry #84: Kachabeswarar Temple, Thirukachur
கச்சபேசுவரர் திருக்கோயில், திருக்கச்சூர் The story goes that in the 8th century, the great Saivite poet-saint Sundaramoorthy Nayanar and his entourage once undertook a pilgrimage to the Sivan temples of Thondai Nadu. One day they were on their way to Kanchipuram from the nearby ancient Sivan temple of Thirukalukundram. They decided to break journey and stay for the night at this small village of Thirukachur. There was a Sivan temple here. They were tired after a day of walking. As night fell, they felt hungry. An old man appeared and offered them food. They later found out that the old man dressed as a beggar went to all the houses in the village and begged for food which the village folk gave generously. He fed the Sivanadiyar with the food he gathered. Then they could not find him. They believed that the Lord himself came here as a beggar to feed them and disappeared in to this shrine. Hence the Lord here came to be known as the Iranthitteeswarar (the Lord who was a beggar) and Virunthutteeswarar (the Lord who gave a feast). Sundarar in his gratitude rendered a pathikam here. Thus it became a Paadal Petra Petra Sthalam together with its twin temple of Maruntheeswarar, a smaller temple in the same village. Kachabam means turtle. Legend says that when Lord Vishnu took the form of a turtle in his Koorma avatharam, he came here to obtain Lord Sivan's blessings in his effort to save the earth from destruction. Due to this, the Lord here came to be known as Kachabeswarar. The temple should not be confused with another ancient and beautiful temple by the same name with a similar legend in the heart of the city of Kanchipuram. That one is not a Paadal Petra Sthalam. With two prakarams and granite walls and two acres in area, it is a moderate sized temple with multiple subsidiary shrines and a solid granite sanctum. Lots and lots of inscriptions. The vimanam is of the Gajaprishta or Thoonganai Maadam type similar to many Thondai Mandalam temples of the Chola era. There is no gopuram at the main entranceway. It is flat gopuram or a Mottai gopuram. The Amman here, Anjanakshi Amman, has her own special shrine. The Utsavar is a Somaskander idol and is celebrated as Thiyagarajar and the temple is sometimes referred to as the Thiyagarajar temple. The koshta idol on the western wall on the opposite side of the entrance to the sanctum sanctorum is an idol of Lord Mahavishnu and not a Lingothbavar as in many Chola temples. There is a small mandapam in front of the temple, which is believed to be the spot where Sundarar and his followers rested for the night 12 centuries ago. The sthala virutcham is the Aal or Banyan tree. Hence it is sometimes call the Aalakkoil. The temple was not well maintained when we first visited seven years ago. It looks better but still needs some work. It is heartening to see that the temple pond has been given a solar powered cleaning system under a CSR initiative by a multinational corporation BASF operating in the area. The pond looks nice. It is called the Koorma Theertham and is just outside the temple. With DMK and PMK flags flying at the entrance of the temple, one could feel that there is politics going on which is unfortunate. Sundarar praises the Lord here thus: முதுவாய் ஓரி கதற முதுகாட் டெரிகொண் டாடல் முயல்வானே மதுவார் கொன்றைப் புதுவீ சூடும் மலையான் மகள்தன் மணவாளா கதுவாய்த் தலையிற் பலிநீ கொள்ளக் கண்டால் அடியார் கவலாரே அதுவே ஆமா றிதுவோ கச்சூர் ஆலக் கோயில் அம்மானே. The temple is located in the small village of Thirukachur and hidden away from the bustling highways close by. It is about 55 km or 2 hours southwest of Chennai city. We visited in August 2017 and August 2024. We were based in Chennai. Credits: Google Maps











