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பனங்காட்டீசுவரர் திருக்கோயி்ல், பனையபுரம் An ancient Sivan temple dating back to Pallava times, it is less than an hour west of Pondicherry. It is a Paadal Petra Sthalam and Thirugnasampanthar composed the pathikam for this temple. விண்ணமர்ந்தன மும் மதில்களை வீழவெங்கணையாலெய் தாய்விரி பண்ணமர்ந்தொலிசேர் புறவார் பனங்காட்டூர்ப் பெண்ணமர்ந்தொரு பாகமாகிய பிஞ்ஞகா பிறைசேர்நுதலிடைக் கண்ணமர்ந்தவனே கலந்தார்க்கு அருளாயே In those times this place was called Puravaar Panangattur - புறவார் பனங்காட்டூர் - which means a palmyrah forest. Together with a number of other temples in this region and beyond, it venerates the palmyrah palm tree which has played such an important role in Tamil culture. There are several inscriptions here belonging to Rajendra Cholan, Rajendran II, Athirajendran, Kulothungan I, Jadavarman Sundarapandian and Vikrama Pandian I. During Chola times this village was called Paravaipuram after Paravai, the personal assistant and confidante of Rajendran I, who hailed from this place. Rajendran I rebuilt this temple which was again renovated by Kulothungan I. It has a 4 tier rajagopuram that does not have any stucco images. The large lingothbavar in the rear koshtam of the moolasthaanam is impressive and classic Cholan. Lot of history here. It almost got destroyed a few years ago during expansion of the national highway system and had to be saved by a lot of effort by locals and others. The highway eventually got rerouted. The temple is under HR and CE control and needs better care. It is located about 60 km or 1 hour west of Pondicherry. We visited in May 2023. We were based in Pondicherry. Credits: Google Maps

சந்திரமவுலீசுவரர் திருக்கோயில் அல்லது திருவக்ரகாளியம்மன் ஆலயம், திருவக்கரை Situated in Vilupuram District of Tamil Nadu near Thindivanam just outside of Pondicherry, this ancient temple is a Sivan temple and a Paadal Petra Sthalam but is better known for the Amman shrine here - Vakrakaliamman. Legend says that a demon called Vakrasuran was slain here and the place was called Vakrapuri in ancient times. Hence the name for the Goddess here. Like places such as Madurai (Meenakshi) or Kanchipuram the goddess takes preeminence over the Lord here. The pathikam was rendered by Thirugnanasambanthar. கறையணி மாமிடற்றான் கரி காடரங் காவுடையான் பிறையணி கொன்றையினா னொரு பாகமும் பெண்ணமர்ந்தான் மறையவன் றன்றலையிற் பலி கொள்பவன் வக்கரையில் உறைபவ னெங்கள்பிரா னொலி யார்கழ லுள்குதுமே The temple has existed since Pallava times according to references. The earliest inscriptions pertain to the reign of Aditya I ( Paranthakan I ‘s father) essentially the first Chola emperor in the early 10th century. He is credited with the initial construction in granite but a number of Chola kings and queens have made contributions to the temple in later years. Sembian Mahadevi, Rajarajan, Rajendran and Athirajendran have all made contributions and inscriptions. The beautiful seven tiered rajagopuram is likely Nayakkan or later. This temple has some unusual features. Unlike other temples the rajagopuram, kodimaram, Nandi and the moolasthaanam are not in a straight line. It could be that due to the great antiquity of the temple, they were built in different eras. Or was it by design? Vakkiram means crooked in Tamil. The Saneeswaran here is also unusual in that his vahanam (vehicle) the crow faces left as opposed to right everywhere else. He is called Vakrasaneeswarar here and is thought to be very special. The lingam in the sanctum sanctorum has three faces and is also very unique. The temple is very popular and was very crowded when we were there. There were signs forbidding photos and I could not take good pictures as there were people everywhere. It is located 25 km or 45 minutes west of Pondicherry. We visited in May 2023. We were based in Pondicherry. Credits: Google Maps

மகாகாளேசுவரர் திருக்கோயில், திரு இரும்பை மாகாளம் This relatively small but ancient Shivan temple is just outside of Pondicherry and is a Paadal Petra Sthalam. Thirugnanasampanthar composed the pathikam here. Legend says that there are 3 Mahakaleshwarar temples. One is the famous Jyotirlinga shrine in Ujjain, Madhya Pradesh. Another is in Thiruvambar in the Kaveri Delta. This is the third one. The three faced copper plated lingam here is thought to be very unique. மண்டு கங்கைசடையிற் கரந்தும் மதிசூடிமான் கொண்ட கையாற் புரமூன்றெரித்த குழகன்னிடம் எண்திசையும் புகழ்போய் விளங்கும் இரும்பைதனுள் வண்டுகீதம் முரல்பொழில் கலாய்நின்ற மாகாளமே Most of the current architecture is from the Chola period. Kulothungan III was the most important contributor with later contributions from Pandyan kings. Very beautiful murals give this temple a very special look. These are likely of more recent origin. The single tiered circular vimanams over the sanctums here are thought to be excellent examples of the Ekadala style. A quiet, cozy but important temple where you could get close to the Lord. It is located about 9 km or 15 minutes by car to the northwest of Pondicherry. We visited in May 2023. We were based in Pondicherry. Credits: Google Maps

திரு அரசலீசுவரர் ஆலயம், திருஅரசிலி, ஒழிந்தியாபட்டு Situated very close to Pondicherry but in Tamil Nadu, this small beautiful temple is a Paadal Petra Sthalam venerated in Thevara Pathikam by Thirugnanasampanthar. பாடல் வண்டறை கொன்றை பால்மதி பாய்புனற் கங்கை கோடல் கூவிள மாலை மத்தமுஞ் செஞ்சடைக் குலாவி வாடல் வெண்டலை மாலை மருவிட வல்லியம் தோள்மேல் ஆடல் மாசுணம் அசைத்த அடிகளுக் கிடம்அர சிலியே. Known as Thiruarasili in ancient times the village is called Ozhinthiyapattu or Olinthiapattu these days. Given the great antiquity of this temple, many legends and myths abound here. The story goes that a king was once worshiping a lingam here and a deer was eating the flowers that the king had offered to the Lord. The king shot an arrow at the deer and injured it only to find that the deer was indeed the Lord in disguise. The sivalingam in the sanctum still has the injury they say. The Dakshinamurty in the south koshtam (niche) here is unique in that it has a Nataraja figure in the ananthathandavam above it. The koshta idol in the Western wall of the sanctum is Mahavishnu. In most Chola temples it is Lingothbavar. Believed to be reconstructed by the Chalukyans (the Eastern Chalukyans of Vengi had marital relations with Chola royalty and were close allies in their conflicts with the Western Chalukyans) in the 11th century. The Tamil inscriptions here belong to the reigns of Kulothunga Cholan I and his son Vikrama Cholan. The stucco images likely belong to a later era, likely Nayakkan. It is located about 25 km or 45 minutes to the northwest of Pondicherry. We visited in May 2023. We were based in Pondicherry. Credits: Google Maps

உலகளந்த பெருமாள் திருக்கோயில், திருக்கோவிலூர் This is an important temple in the ancient town of Thirukoilur or Thirukovilur on the banks of the Then Pennai River (தென் பெண்ணை ஆறு). It is one of the 108 Divya Desam temples that are very sacred in Tamil Vaishnavite Hinduism. Divya Desams are temples venerated in the Naalayira Divya Prabandham ( நாளாயிர திவ்விய பிரபந்தம்), the 4000 verses sung by the 12 Aalwar (ஆழ்வார்) poet saints. The Aalwar were similar to the Saivite Nayanmar and lived around the same time. They sang in praise of Lord Vishnu. The term Ulagalantha Perumal denotes the Lord who measured the earth. The other well-known Ulagalantha Perumal temple is in Kanchipuram. The wooden idol of Lord Mahavishnu in the sanctum has his right leg lifted up with which he measures the earth. The 21 foot idol is one of the tallest idols in India. At 5 acres or 20,000 square meters it is the largest temple in Thirukoilur. With two towering rajagopurams and multiple prakarams it is a huge complex. The first rajagopuram is 192 feet (59 m) and is the third tallest in Tamil Nadu after the ones in Srirangam and Srivilliputhur. It has 11 tiers and the inner one has 7. It is located in Tamil Nadu. 88 km or 2 hours from Pondicherry and 35 km or 30 minutes from Thiruvannamalai. The nearest big town is Vilupuram. We visited in May 2023. We were based in Pondicherry. Credits: Google Maps.

வீரட்டேசுவரர் திருக்கோயில், திருக்கோவிலூர் அல்லது திருக்கோயிலூர் Thirukoilur or Thirukovilur or Thirukovalur as it is sometimes referred to in ancient texts is a temple town immersed in Tamil history. Many beautiful temples exist here. This Sivan temple is a Paadal Petra Sthalam and has a lot of Saivite history embedded in it. Thirugnanasampanthar and Thirunavukkarasar composed the pathikams here. It is one of the 8 Ashtaveerattana Sthalams which commemorate a valiant deed of the Lord. The temple has existed from Pallava times with contributions from Nandhivarma Pallavan and later Chola kings including Paranthakan I, Rajarajan and Rajendran. Many important inscriptions (கல்வெட்டு) are found here. Thirukoilur was the domain of the Malayaman kings from Sangam times to the Chola imperial era. They had close marital ties to the Cholas and were staunch allies and vassals. Vananmadevi, queen of Paranthakan II or Sundara Cholan was a Malayaman princess and was born here in Thirukoilur. Her three children Aditya Karikalan, Kundavai and Arunmolivarman (later Rajarajan) were also born here. There is an inscription in this temple testifying to the birth of the future great emperor here. Some sources erroneously claim that he was born in Thanjavur. Both the princes spent part of their childhood here with their maternal grandparents. Despite the historical significance, the temple itself is not very large. Today it is controlled by the HR and CE and is poorly maintained. Certainly needs more attention. It is located in Tamil Nadu, 88 km or 2 hours from Pondicherry and 35 km or 30 minutes from Thiruvannamalai. The nearest big town is Vilupuram. We visited in May 2023. We were based in Pondicherry. We were in a rush as it was close to closing time of the temple and we did not have enough time to take good pictures. Credits: Google Maps.

கிருபாபுரீசுவரர் அல்லது அருட்கொண்டநாதர் திருக்கோயில் திருவெண்ணெய்நல்லூர் This is a very special Sivan temple for Saivite Hindus. It lies west of Pondicherry, close to Vilupuram in Tamil Nadu. It is on the banks of the Thenpennai River. Sundarar or Sundaramoorthy Nayanar, the 8th century poet saint was born close to here in Thirunavalur. When Sundarar was a young man and was about to get married, an old man interrupted the marriage ceremonies and declared that Sundarar was his slave. An angry Sundarar called the old man a piththa (பித்தா) or madman. The old man claimed that he had documents to prove that Sundarar indeed was his slave and they were in Thiruvennainallur. So Sundarar and the marriage entourage followed the old man from Thirunavalur to Thiruvennainallur where the old man produced the documents at this temple. A group of elders examined the documents and found them to be authentic. At this moment, the old man walked into the sanctum and disappeared. Realizing that the old man was none other than Lord Siva himself in disguise, the repentant and inconsolable Sundarar entreated with the Lord to show him a way to make amends. Siva commanded him to sing and when Sundarar asked him what he should sing about, the Lord asked to sing about the madman, piththa (பித்தா). Thus the young Sundarar came to sing his very first pathikam, the well known Thevaram - "Piththa pirai soodi….. பித்தாபிறை சூடீபெரு மானேயரு ளாளா எத்தான்மற வாதேநினைக் கின்றேன்மனத் துன்னை வைத்தாய்பெண்ணைத் தென்பால்வெண்ணெய் நல்லூரருட் டுறையுள் அத்தாஉனக் காளாய்இனி அல்லேனென லாமே. The temple was extensively renovated by the Chola kings starting from Paranthakan I in the 10th century. The great Chola queen Chempiyan Mahadevi also contributed immensely to the building works. Given the importance of the temple, many later dynasties like the Pandians and the Nayakkans have also contributed. The beautiful tall rajagopuram is from this later era. Although under the control of the HR and CE, the temple is decently maintained. It is situated about 62 km or 90 minutes west of Pondicherry. We visited in May 2023. We were based in Pondicherry Credits: Google Maps.

பஞ்ச நா தீசுவரர் அல்லது வடுகூர்நாதர் திருக்கோயில், திருவாண்டார்கோயில் This ancient Sivan temple is in the village of Thiruvandarkoil in rural Pondicherry. The site itself is very ancient and at least 1500 years or older. It is a Paadal Petra Sthalam praised in the Thevaram by Thirugnanasampanthar in the early 600s CE. The current structure was built by Paranthaka Cholan I, great grandfather of Raja Rajan I, in the early 10th century. It was added onto by other Chola kings including Raja Rajan, Rajendran and Kulothungan. But it was surprisingly relatively untouched by Vijayanagar and Nayakkan expansions. So it lacks a rajagopuram and kodimaram or dwajasthambam. As such this is a truly Chola temple. It is today under the control of the ASI and considered a monument of national importance. It is not a fully active temple. It is partially active. It is believed that this was one of the prototypes for the later and much larger great temple at Thanjavur. It is located about 20 km or 40 minutes west of Pondicherry. We visited in may 2023. We were based in Pondicherry. Credits: Google Maps

பசுபதீசுவரர் திருக்கோயிலும் அப்பர் மடமும் திருவாமூர் Just outside of Panruti in Tamil Nadu and a short distance of 15 minutes from Thiruvathigai, is a small nondescript village set in the middle of green beautiful fields on the northern banks of the Kedilam River called Thiruvamur. Appar or Thirunavukkarasar was born here and the family lived in this village during his childhood. This is a Thevara Vaipusthalam - தேவார வைப்புத்தலம். There are 276 Paadal Petra Sthalams which have dedicated Thevara Pathikams (a set of 10 verses) sung in praise of Lord Siva in the temple. There are another 250 or so temples that are mentioned in passing in the Thevaram and are called Thevara Vaipusthalams. This is one such site. The temple here is quite small. The site is very ancient. Most of the original construction is gone. The granite walls of the sanctum of Siva is of Chola construction and has endured. Kulothungan III did a lot renovations here. Most of the other structures including the exterior of the Amman shrine is of cement or concrete and seem to have been reconstructed in modern times. The vimanams are of Nayakkan style and are made of stucco. The small rajagopuram is also of a later age. The temple is under the control of the HR and CE (Hindu Religious and Charitable Endowments) Department of the Government of Tamil Nadu and is not looked after well. There is a single Archakar who does a single pooja for the day. We had to call ahead so that he opened the temple for us and did a pooja. About 200 meters from this temple is another structure built over the site where Thirunavukkarasar’s home stood. It is a modern structure and is used as a mutt or Madam - மடம். It commemorates the place where he was born. It can be maintained better. The Kalar Uhai Tree - களர் உகாய் or Toothbrush Tree here is supposed to be 1400 years old and is thought to be very special. It is located about 55 km southwest of Pondicherry and about a 90 minute drive. We visited in May 2023. We were based in Pondicherry. Credits: Google Maps.

அகத்தீசுவரர் திருக்கோயில், கிளியனூர் This is an ancient Sivan temple. Of the 276 Paadal Petra Sthalams, this is the last to be listed. The pathikam is by Thirugnanasampanthar and was discovered only in the 1930s. தார் சிறக்கும் சடைக்கு அணி வள்ளலின் சீர் சிறக்கும் துணைப்பதம் உன்னுவொர் பேர் சிறக்கும் பெருமொழி உய்வகை ஏர் சிறக்கும் கிளியன்ன வூரனே. The temple was originally a brick temple that was converted to a granite temple by Paranthaka Cholan I according to inscriptions here. The temple lacks a kodimaram and a rajagopuram. Legend says that the sage Agasthyiar installed and consecrated the deity here. Hence the name Agastheeswarar. The temple is undergoing repairs and renovations and all the structures were covered in scaffolding. Renovations by the HR and CE always makes me nervous because they sometimes destroy inscriptions and structures of immense historical value. They have access to the expertise of the ASI which they do not always utilize. Politics. At least the site gets a better look and is protected from encroachment. Could not take good pictures due to the construction and scaffolding. It is located about 21 km or 30 minutes northwest of Pondicherry. We visited in May 2023. We were based in Pondicherry. Credits: Google Maps.

பாடலேசுவரர் அல்லது பாடலீசுவரர் திருக்கோயில், திருப்பாதிரிப்புலியூர் This very ancient Sivan temple is south of Pondicherry in the Tamil Nadu town of Cuddalore. It is steeped in Saivite history and lore and is a very important temple. They say that to worship here once is equal to worshiping 16 times in Kashi, 8 times in Thiruvannamalai and 3 times in Chidambaram. It is a Paadal Petra Sthalam. When Thirunavukkarasar renounced Jainism and became Saivite again, it made the Jain monks very angry. They complained to the Pallava king Mahendravarman who was the ruler at that time and was a devout Jain. Thirunavukkarasar was arrested and tortured. First they tried to poison him and then they threw him into a lime kiln. Nothing happened to him. Finally they tied him to a stone pillar and threw him into the sea. The pillar became buoyant and he floated up the Kedilam river and came ashore close to this temple. Here he sang the well known pathikam, the Namashivaya Pathikam, "Sotrunai Vethiyan Sothi Vaanavan" that is so familiar to most of us சொற்றுணை வேதியன் சோதி வானவன் பொற்றுணைத் திருந்தடி பொருந்தக் கைதொழக் கற்றுணைப் பூட்டியோர் கடலிற் பாய்ச்சினும் நற்றுணை யாவது நமச்சி வாயவே. The place where he came ashore is still venerated. A small temple has been built there and the place is called Karaiyeravittakuppam (கரையேறவிட்டகுப்பம்) in the area of Cuddalore called Puthuvandipaalayam. We had some difficulty finding it. But it was a rewarding experience. This temple has many stories and legends. The boy saint Thirugnanasampanthar addressed Thirunavukkarasar as Appar for the first time here. The tiger footed Rishi Vyagrapada worshipped here. Hence the name puliyur. The temple itself has been present before the time of Appar. The Pallavas and then the Cholas did a lot of the initial building and the core still has elements from those times. But it has been renovated and rebuilt so many times during Nayakkan times and most recently by the Pudukottai Nagarathar (Chettiar) in 1917 and by local people in 1973, that the current structures are a combination of many different architectural styles. The Nayakkan architecture stands out the most. It had suffered a lot of damage due to wars and invasion given its strategic location. It was damaged badly by the Anglo - French wars of the 18th century. It is a large and a very busy temple. Given its location in an urban setting and its importance, a lot of people visit here. It was difficult to take pictures. It is located in the town of Cuddalore in Tamil Nadu, about 25 km or 45 minutes by car south of Pondicherry. The place is often referred to as Thirupapuliyur for short. We visited in May 2023. We stayed in Pondicherry. Credits: Google Maps

திருமூலநாதசுவாமி திருக்கோயில், பாகூர், புதுச்சேரி This is an interesting Sivan temple in Pondicherry which is an odd combination of architectural styles from different eras which are beautifully intertwined. The original temple is believed to have been built by the Pallavas in the 7th century. The copper plates of Pallava king Nirupathungavarman mention this temple in the 9th century. In the 10th century Paranthaka Cholan I, completely revamped it. The Nayakkans added columns and a small mandapam. And the French renovated it in the 19th and 20th centuries. So the base pedestal or upapitha of the sanctum with carvings of dancing girls etc. is clearly Pallava. The walls with numerous inscriptions, the koshta idols, the Boothagana frieze under the cornice, the yali frieze and the koodus wth human faces are all Cholan. The Vimanam is modern and built by the French. One of the statuettes is actually of a Frenchman. Can you spot him? The front part of the temple was rebuilt by the French and is clearly European. This is an ASI property. It is located in the southern part of Pondicherry about 20 kms or 45 minutes from downtown Pondicherry. We visited in May 2023. We stayed in Pondicherry. Credits: Google Maps