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திருவாப்பனூர் அல்லது திவாப்புடையார் திருக்கோயில் மதுரை This little known temple is situated in the Sellur neighbourhood of Madurai and is a lovely small Sivan temple. It lies across the river from the Madurai Meenakshi Amman Temple and is considered its sub-temple. Small but elegant it still retains its Pandian origins. Originally built by Pandian kings it was later renovated by the Nayakkar and the Sethupathy kings of Pudukottai. It does not have a rajagopuram. As it is a Paadal Petra Sthalam it must have existed in some form in the early 7th century. Aappu (ஆப்பு) means wedge in Tamil. The legend is that an ancient king was tired at the end of the day's hunt and was looking for a lingam to do his evening Siva Pooja. A woodcutter lent his wedge as a makeshift lingam and then it would not move and a temple had to be built around it.  It is the 246th Paadal Petra Sthalam and the 2nd one in the Pandian country. Sampanthar composed the Pathikam. We visited in August 2019. Credits: Google Maps

கூடல் அழகர் திருக்கோயில் மதுரை This is an important Vishnu temple in Madurai very close to the Meenakshi Amman temple. Koodal is an ancient name for Madurai and Alagar means Lord Vishnu. It is a Divya Desam temple. It is very ancient and is mentioned in the Sangam Literature of the 1st century BCE to 2nd century CE. The current structure was originally built by Pandian kings between the 9th and 12th centuries (with some Chola influence in the 10th and 11th centuries). It has been extensively renovated during the Vijayanagar and Nayakkan periods between the 14th and 16th centuries and has layers of history embedded in it. There is an inscription from the 8th century. The sanctum has 3 levels and is one of only two temples where you can see Lord Vishnu in all 3 poses - sitting (on the main level), lying (on the second level) and standing (on the 3rd level). There is a small fee to access the upper levels. The style of the vimanam is unique. It is an eight sided Ashtanga Vimanam and was likely built in the 10th century. Absolutely stunning architecture. At 2 acres in area, it is not a huge temple but it is a beautiful temple and culturally very important. The stucco images on the rajagopuram tell the stories of the Ramayana and Mahabharata, It is enclosed by a tall granite wall. It is a must see temple in Madurai. We visited in August 2019. Credits: Google Maps

சுப்பிரமணியசுவாமி திருக்கோயில் திருப்பரங்குன்றம் This ancient temple is found on the southern outskirts of Madurai set against a granite hill. It is a rock cut cave temple with some unique features. Unlike other temples where there is only one deity in the sanctum sanctorum (the Karuvarai), this temple has five deities - Siva, Vishnu, Murugan, Ganesha and Durga. It is revered as an important Sivasthalam (Paadal Petra Sthalam) as well as one of the most important Murugan temples (it is one of the Aru Padai Veedu). Today it is predominantly considered a Murugan temple. The presiding deity is still Siva. In the early 7th century it was briefly converted to a Jain place of worship when the Jain monks were quite powerful in Madurai and wielded enormous power over the the Pandian King. A large temple has been built over the centuries around the ancient original cave. As it is set against the hillside, it does not have the traditional prakarams (circumambulatory enclosures). As the sanctum is set against the rock face. people who wish to do a circumambulation, do so around the hill as it common in hill temples. It is called a Girivalam. The idols in the sanctum are carved on the bedrock of the Thiruparankundram hill. The hill itself is considered a manifestation of a Sivalingam. It also serves as the vimanam of the temple. The various mandapams are on different levels as you climb up to the sanctum. The temple finds mention in the Sangam work the Thirumurugatruppadai (திருமுருகாற்றுப்படை) from around the beginning of the first millennium, attesting to its antiquity. The work is credited to the legendary Sangam era poet Nakkeerer and celebrates Lord Murugan. Thirugnasampanthar rendered a Thevara pathikam here in the seventh century. Thus it is a Paadal Petra Sivasthalam. The original cave temple is of Pandiyan construction. The majority of the structures today including the magnificent seven tiered rajagopuram and the 48 pillared hall, the Astana Mandapam at the entrance are from the Nayakkan era. Amazing temple. Must see if you visit Madurai. If you have time and energy go up the hill and visit the Kasi Visvanathar temple for some amazing views. We visited in August 2019. Credits: Google Maps

பகவதியம்மன் திருக்கோயில், கன்னியாகுமரி Also known as the Devi Kanyakumari Temple or Kumari Amman Temple, this is an ancient temple on the very southern tip of mainland India. It is dedicated to the Goddess. It lies at the confluence of three water bodies the Arabian Sea, the Bay of Bengal and the greater Indian Ocean - a Triveni Sangam. Apart from the geographical significance, it also has a long and celebrated history. It is mentioned in the Hindu Vedic literature including the Upanishads. Legend says that it was built by the sage Parashurama himself. The ancient Greek work the Periplus of the Erythraean Sea mentions it at the beginning of the first millennium. There is a legend that ancient mariners were able to see the bright and large nose ring of the idol of the Goddess from far out at sea. It is believed that the east gate of the temple complex is always kept closed so that the idol is not visible from the sea and thus will not confuse sailors. For all its celebrated past, it is not a very large temple. It does not have very impressive architecture either . It has four stone musical columns from which sounds of different musical instruments emanate when pounded upon. The Ay, the Pandians and other dynasties have controlled the temple at different times. During British colonial times the kings of Travancore maintained this temple. Although it lies so exposed to the ocean, there is no recorded history of any great destruction or plunder. It is a place of great spiritual significance. Many come here to find peace and tranquility. Swami Vivekananda, the great modern Hindu sage started the major part of his spiritual journey here at Kanyakumari. We visited in August 2019. We were based in Kanyakumari. Credits: Google Maps

திருபுஷ்பவனேசுவரர் திருக்கோயில் திருப்பூவனம் Not to be confused with the Kampaheswarar at Thirubhuvanam, the Chola temple on the Kaveri, this Sivan temple is located 20 km or a 30 minute drive east of Madurai on the banks of the Vaigai River. As it is mentioned in the Thevaram, it has to have existed in some form in the early 7th century. The pretty rajagopuram looks like it has been built in the last 200 years. The Pandian, Chola, Vijayanagar and Nayakkar dynasties have all contributed to the construction of this temple over the ages. The granite inner core is believed to to have been built by Aditya Chola I, in the early 10th century. It was renovated by Chempiyan Mahadevi. The muhamandapam has a statue of King Thirumalai Nayakkar. It was built or rebuilt in his reign in the 17th century. The earliest inscription dates to the period of Sadayan Maran an early Pandian King. There are inscriptions describing Adityan's contribution as well as those by Chempiyan Mahadevi, Rajarajan I, Rajendran, Jatavarman Kulasekara Pandian, Maravarman Sundara Pandian I, Maravarman Sundara Pandian II, Rajasimha Pandian and others. This is the 10th of the 14 Paadal Petra Sthalams in the Pandya Nadu and has pathikams from Gnasampanthar, Thirunaauvukkarasar and Sundarar. Lots of divine stories about this temple. The 36th Thiruvilaiyaadal, that of the dancing girl Ponnaiyal is supposed to have occurred here. Although not architecturally as impressive as some of the other temples we have visited, it has a lot of history and legends. It is an immensely important temp[e. Only a few temples have been praised in song by all three of the Moovar. There is an interesting story about Thirugnanasampanthar's visit to this temple. He was standing on the other side of the Vaigai River and saw the sun reflecting on the grains of sand on the river bank by the temple. They looked like thousands of Sivalingams and he did not want to step on them. So the Nandi moved for him to see the Lord. To this day the Nandi is off to a side. We visited in Aug 2019. We were based in Madurai. Credits: Google Maps

ஶ்ரீவில்லிப்புத்தூர் ஆண்டாள் திருக்கோயில் 82 km to the southwest of Madurai, about a 90 minute drive, lies this vast and beautiful twin temple complex. It is a Divya Desam Vishnu temple. One part of the temple is dedicated to the woman alvaar saint Aandaal, who was born here in the 8th century. The main deity Vadapatrasayi is a reclining form of the Lord Vishnu. The idol is large, colourful and made of stucco. There are three entrances to the sanctum, one for the head, one for the body and one for the feet. It is an ancient temple built over the ages with original Pandian construction with later contributions from Chola, Vijayanagar, Nayakkan and other dynasties. There is some evidence that the temple in some form had existed since the 8th century. The earliest inscriptions are from the 10th century. A lot of inscriptions in Vatteluthu and fish symbols are here denoting the Pandian influence. Much of the current masonry is from the Vijayanagar and Nayakkan eras starting in the 15th century. The great king Thirumalai Nayakkar renovated this temple in the 17th century. Some of the finest and most unique sculptures and paintings from the Nayakkan era exist here. Many believe that the Tamil Nadu state government emblem is designed after the rajagopuram here. It is disputed by some who believe that it is based on the west gopuram at Madurai Meenakshi. Two of the most revered Tamil Vaishnavite saints Periyazhvaar and Aandaal were born here. It is spiritually important and an architectural gem. It is a Divya Desam temple. An amazing temple and a must visit. We visited in August 2019. We were based in Madurai. Credits: Google Maps

காசி விசுவநாதர் திருக்கோயில் - தென்காசி Thenkasi or Tenkasi - the Southern Kashi - is a small town about 60 kms or 1.5 hours northwest of Thirunelveli. Historically it was the Pandian Royal family's last stand before they disappeared in the 1500s with the establishment of the Madurai Nayakkan Kingdom. Long after they lost control of much of their territories including their capital Madurai as a consequence of the Pandian Civil War in the early 1300s, the raids by the Delhi Sultanate, the establishment of the Sultanate of Madurai or Ma'bar, the expansion of Vijayanagar power etc. they ruled here for some decades. Tenkasi gets its name from the massive and ancient temple to Siva built here by the Pandians and later patronized by the Nayakkan kings. The temple has numerous inscriptions from many dynasties and the exact dating of its origin is unclear. Some sources date it to the mid 1400s, long after the zenith of Pandian power was gone. At 180 feet, the huge Rajagopuram is the 7th tallest in Tamil Nadu. The style is more Vijayanagar. It was initially completed in 1505, but burnt down in a fire in 1824 and was in ruins until 1966. Beginning in 1967, it was painstakingly restored using the original techniques over two decades and was completed in 1990. It is a grand sight today and a must visit.  Many legends exist here and it is a much revered temple. It is situated about 2 hours by car or 65 km north west of Thirunelveli. We visited in August 2019. We were based in Thirunelveli. Credits: Google Maps

குற்றாலநாதர் திருக்கோயில் திருக்குற்றாலம் This temple is very ancient and its origins are obscure. Some evidence suggests that it was here in some form in Sangam times. The Pandians built it into a stone temple in the 8th and 9th centuries and the Cholans renovated it in the 10th. As it is wedged between two hillsides, with a waterfall on one side, it has had no room to expand. So it is constrained to being a large but not huge temple as it should have been, given its long history and importance. The Nayakkans had no room to build a large rajagopuram which would have looked somewhat incongruous. The prakarams are in the shape of a conch (சங்கு) - very unique. There are hundreds of inscriptions. It is a Paadal Petra Sthalam. Sampanthar composed the Pathikam. It is one of the Pancha Sabais - the 5 halls where Lord Nataraja performed the cosmic dance. This is the Chitra Sabai (சித்திர சபை) - the Hall of Paintings.  It is located 67 km or about 2 hours northwest of Thirunelveli and very close to Thenkasi. It is a very popular pilgrimage site and the falls are a major attraction, making it a very crowded and congested place with hundreds of vendors and pilgrims. One important thing to remember is that the Chitra Saba is not located inside the temple as you might expect. It is about a 15 minute walk away up the hill. As you exit the temple , you have to turn left and go up a series of steps and cross the street (you can drive up there). The Chitra Saba is one of the best kept secrets, not widely advertised and not to be missed. It is a whole temple made up of mural paintings. All the deities are there in the right order and system but are in the form of paintings instead of idols. The current paintings are from the Nayakkan era and are more than 500 years old. They have been painstakingly restored using the same natural herbs under the watchful eyes of INTACH (Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage). Some art historians are still not happy with the authenticity of the restoration but it is a fantastic achievement. We were spellbound. They will ask you how you found out about it and tell you that you came there because you were blessed. Photography is prohibited and strictly enforced. So we have no pictures to show you. We visited in August 2019. We were based in Thirunelvely Credits: Google Maps

வாலீஸ்வரர் கோயில் - திருவாலீஸ்வரம், திருநெல்வேலி Some temples have been built at sites that have been sacred for centuries before the current structures were built. The origins of these temples are obscured in the mists of history. Generation after generation of people have come to these temples out of piety and devotion. Every minor king and major emperor who ruled this land has contributed to these temples. So much so that it is very difficult for ordinary folk to make out which structure was built in which era. The current forms are a fusion of many different eras and styles. On the other hand there are temples that were completely built in a certain single era. Usually there was nothing special about the site. These could be sepulchral temples (பள்ளிப்படை கோயில்) or temples that commemorate a certain battle victory etc. These temples were often ignored by succeeding dynasties. The good thing for the historian and especially the art historian is that these temples remain frozen in time and true to the era in which they were originally built. Better known examples are - the Kailasanathar at Kanchipuram, the Shore Temple at Mahabalipuram, Darasuram, Periya Koil at Thanjavur, Gangaikondacholapuram etc. Less well known are countless others such as the ones at Narthamalai, Panamalai, Kodumbalur etc. to name a few.  One such hidden gem exists, tucked away from the general public view, in rural Thirunelveli district, in the little village of Thiruvaleeswaram near Ambasamudram on the Thamirabarani river. It is strictly guarded, as a monument of national significance by the Archeological Survey of India (the ASI). It is well maintained. There are many inscriptions from Raja Rajan's time. Built by the invading Cholas in the Pandian heartland in the mid 10th century, it is believed to be one of the best examples of early Cholan architecture in existence. A famed strike corps of the Imperial Chola army called the Moondru Kai Mahasenai (மூன்று கை மகாசேனை) was headquartered here.  The ASI guard here, a young village lad, would not let me take any pictures inside of this small but stunningly beautiful temple. He wanted me to get permission from the ASI which was not possible in the short time we had. We also visited the beautiful Sivan temple at Thirupudaimaruthur, the Narumbunathar, home to some of the best mural paintings of the Nayakkan era. It was too dark to take any pictures.(Not to be confused with the Mahalingeswarar at Thiruvidaimaruthur in the Kaveri delta) We visited in August 2019. We were based in Thirunelvely Credits: Google Maps

பாபநாசநாதர் திருக்கோயில் - பாபநாசம் Many consider this ancient temple to be the first Navakailasa temple on the Thamirabarani. It is dedicated to the sun. It is the closest big temple to the headwaters of the Thamirabarani and is surrounded by lush green hills. Initially built by the Pandian kings, the current architecture is mostly from the Nayakkan era. It has a tall 7 tier Rajagopuram that is visible from the hills far away. Smaller than the temple in Ambasamudram, it is still a fairly large temple that is surrounded by a high granite wall. Today it is by the side of a busy arterial road and was full of people when we visited in the evening. There is another town named Papanasam near Kumbakonam in the Kaveri delta, which is home to another great Sivan temple and should not be confused with this one on the banks of the Thamirabarani. It is located about 60 km to the west of Thirunelveli and close to Ambasamudram. Papanasam literally means the destruction of sins. There are many unique characteristics to this temple. In front of the Amman Sannidhi there is a large pounding stone and women who visit this temple pound turmeric and offer the powder to the Goddess. An ancient custom. Nice temple. We visited in August 2019. We were based in Thirunelveli. Credits: Google Maps

பிரம்மதேசம் கைலாசநாதர் திருக்கோயில் - அம்பாசமுத்திரம் This massive, beautiful and ancient temple is located in a small and verdant village called Ambasamudram on the banks of the Thamirabarani about 40 kms or 1 hour west of Thirunelveli. Although not a Paadal Petra Sthalam, it is mentioned in the 6th Thirumurai in passing and is thus classified as a Thevara Vaippu Thalam. It was called Ayaneeswaram (Ayan is Brahma) in the Thevaram. Some believe it is the first of the Navakailasa temples and is dedicated to the Sun. Some believe that the ancient temple in Papanasam close by is the real first Navakailasam. Many dynasties have contributed to the construction of this vast and grand temple. The great emperor Raja Raja Cholan was very fond of this temple and made many contributions. With 3 tall gopurams and 7 vimanams and innumerable sculptures, it is an architectural masterpiece and hidden treasure. The Nandi here is the largest in the region and has an animated and beautiful appearance. The solid massive doorway is intricately carved by artisans from Kerala and fortified. Much of the structure that we see today is from the Nayakkar renovation in the late 1500s. There is a spot in the outer prakaram (the locals will show you) from where you can see all the towers. The temple has a bit of a forlorn look. It is very much an active temple but needs some repair soon. Politics, as well as administrave inertia and controversy appear to be barriers for urgent preservation of this wonderful temple. We visited in August 2019. We were based in Thirunelvely. Credits: Google Maps

அம்மைநாதர் திருக்கோயில் - சேரன்மகாதேவி The Ammainathar temple is an important, ancient and elegant temple in Cheranmahadevi on the banks of the Thamirabarani. It is one of the Navakailasa temples - the nine ancient Sivan temples along the Thamirabarani where the Moolavar is named Kailasanathar and is dedicated to one of the Navagrahams. This is the second most important. This temple is dedicated to Chandran or Thingal, the Moon God.  Legend says that this temple is 1100 years old. That dating appears to be correct, as you find both Vatteluthu (வட்டெழுத்து) and Tamil inscriptions here. The Cholans usually did not write in Vatteluthu. They preferred the script that evolved into the script that we today call Tamil script. The Pandians before the Chola conquest preferred the Vatteluthu. So this temple must have been built around the time of the Chola conquest in the mid 10th century. This temple is covered with inscriptions. It looks like the Pandians built this temple in the early 10th century before the Chola invasion and the Cholans expanded it. There is evidence that Kulothungan I renovated it in the late 11th century. Although the later dynasties did make minor contributions they appear to be subtle. Some of the sculptures are definitely from the 15th or 16th centuries, but are incorporated into the overall structure very tastefully.  Beautiful temple. We loved the subtle elegance of the pre Nayakkan era. Although the animated sculptures and colourful and crowded gopurams of the Nayakkan era are indeed fascinating , the softness of the Pandian and Chola styles are also beautiful and we see that in abundance here. We visited August 2019 . We were based in Thirunelveli Credits: Google Maps