வேதகிரீசுவரர் மற்றும் பக்தவத்சலேசுவரர் திருக்கோயில் திருக்கழுக்குன்றம் Also spelled Thirukkazhukundram (the "zh" stands for the retroflex "l" in Tamil), this is actually a twin temple complex. The beautiful temple at the base of the hill is known as the Bhaktavachaleswarar Temple and the temple on the hilltop is the Vedagiriswarar Temple. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, these two temples are much venerated and have a long and celebrated history. Thirukalukundram is praised in the Thevaram and the Thiruvasagam. It is one of those temples that have the special distinction of being mentioned in the works of all four of the Naalvar, Thirugnasampanthar, Thirunavukkarasar, Sundaramoorthy Nayanar and Manickavasagar. Thus it is a Paadal Petra Sthalam and a Thiruvasaga Sthalam. Legends abound here. Until recently two Egyptian Vultures used to visit the temple on the hilltop every day at noon to be fed by the priests. Egyptian vultures are native to India despite their name. The birds that came here were vultures and not eagles as mentioned in some places. They disappeared in the late 1990s. The story goes that two ancient sages who had a spell cast on them by the Lord for their arrogance, were destined to live as vultures and prayed here for many yugas for their salvation. When they had done their penance they would be liberated. Another belief is that they would come only until good people existed in the area in this Kali Yugam. Another explanation is that the widespread use of the commonly used anti-inflammatory medication diclofenac has devastated the vulture population in India. Diclofenac which is found in the carcasses of animals the vultures consume causes kidney failure in vultures within hours. Diclofenac is used to treat cattle in veterinary medicine. Whatever the reason the birds do not come to this temple complex named after them anymore. The Bhaktavachaleswarar temple is a complete large temple at the bottom of the hill with four magnificent gopurams and theerthams. It is customary to visit it first and then climb the 562 steps to visit the Vedagiriswarar on the hilltop. The hilltop temple is seemingly precariously positioned on the summit of the hill. The hill is about 500 feet in height. The area comprising the two temples and sacred hill is a vast 265 acres. The Vedagiriswarar does not have a Nandhi at the top. The Nandhi is located at the Bhaktavachaleswarar and is gazing towards the hill. The vimanam of the Bhaktavachaleswarar temple is of the Gajaprishta or Thoonganai Maadam style Given its great antiquity and spiritual significance, it has had contributions from many dynasties and individuals from different eras. The small cave temple found close to the top on the hillside, known as Orukkal Mandapam (ஒருக்கல் மண்டபம்- single stone mandapam) is believed to have been built by the Pallava king Mahendra Varman who ruled from CE 610 to 640. It has been heavily vandalized by British soldiers who were stationed here during the colonial period. Thirukalukundram is a special temple in so many ways and is one of my favourites. It is located in Chengalpattu, 2 hours or 72 km south of Chennai. We visited in August 2017, May 2023 and August 2024. We were based in Chennai Photos updated November 2024 Credits: Google Maps

கபாலீசுவரர் திருக்கோயில் மயிலாப்பூர் சென்னை This ancient temple was originally located close to the seashore in Mylapore. It was destroyed during the Portuguese occupation of this area in 1566. The original site is believed to have been where the San Thome Cathedral stands today. It was built in the 7th century by Pallava kings. It was rebuilt at the current site about 1.5 km inland later in the 16th century by Vijayanagar kings. Some of the stones of the original temple were used in the reconstruction of the new temple. Inscriptions dating back to the 12th century have been found in the temple. Some inscriptions pertaining to the temple have been found close to the original site too. The current structure was built only about 300 years ago. The towering 120 feet or 37 m rajagopuram over the eastern entrance was built only in 1906. So it is a relatively modern temple complex despite its ancient past. It is a Paadal Petra Sthalam and Thirugnasampanthar rendered the pathikam here. There is a legend that he revived a young girl named Poompavai who had died from a snake bite. She was the daughter of an ardent Siva devotee at Mylapore called Sivanesar. The pathikam sung here is known as the Poompavai Pathikam. In his pathikam Sampanthar describes a temple on the seashore. The temple has a typical Dravidian temple layout. It has many mandapams. One of the mandapams houses the bronze images of the 63 nayanmar which are taken out in procession during the Arupathimoovar Festival in March or April. It is a popular temple and attracts huge crowds on special days. It is now controlled by the HR and CE Department of the Government of Tamil Nadu. It is located in Chennai. We visited in January 2005, July 2010 and May 2023. We stayed in Chennai. Credits: Google Maps

திருவலிதாயம் திருவல்லீசுவரர் திருக்கோயில் பாடி சென்னை Of the four Paadal Petra Sthalams within metropolitan Chennai, this is likely the least well known. Situated in the industrial and working class neighbourhood of Padi, it is not as famous as others such as the Kapaleeswarar in Mylapore or the Marundeeswarar in Thiruvanmiyur. Today the temple is popular with the locals as it is associated with Guru or Jupiter and is one of the Navagraha temples around Chennai. The temple must have been in existence in some form in the early 7th century as Sampanthar has praised it in his Thevaram. It was a much larger complex during the heyday of the Chola empire in the 11th and 12th centuries when much of the temple was rebuilt by Rajarajan III and Kulothungan III. Added on to during Vijayanagar and Nayakkan times, it must have been a grand temple. Heavily encroached upon by an expanding city, today only the core remnant remains. The nearby Padaivettu Amman Koil a kilometre away was part of the original complex and is proof of the large extent of the original temple. Chola military commanders paid homage to the Amman here before their northern campaigns. The name Padi likely came from the Chola military encampment that existed here. Padi means a military settlement. Some say that it got its name from the Nayanmar and others who sang hymns in praise of the lord here. The sanctum and the Vimanam here are of the Gajaprishta or Thoonganai Maadam type. It is a fine example of this type of Vimanam that was very popular in the later Chola period. Although this is only a small part of the original temple, it is still a large complex. The relatively small 3 tier rajagopuram is likely a gopuram over an inner entrance way. The outer prakarams have been swallowed by encroachments from an expanding city. It is a beautiful and ancient temple in a bustling part of the city. It is located in the Padi neighbourhood in the western part of the city of Chennai. The locals refer to it as the Padi Sivan Koil. We visited in August 2017. We stayed in Chennai. Credits: Google Maps

ஆதிபுரீசுவரர் அல்லது தியாகராஜ சுவாமி திருக்கோயில், திருவொற்றியூர், சென்னை This vast and much revered Paadal Petra Sivasthalam, also referred to as the Vadivudai Amman Temple, is situated in the northern part of Chennai city. Today this part of Chennai is a poor and crime ridden area of town known for gangs and violence. When we tried to visit here in previous years we were discouraged by many including our drivers. When we visited in May 2023 also our driver was very reluctant to venture out here but we were determined to go, although a bit nervous at the same time. It turned out to be a very pleasant experience. One of only four Paadal Petra Sthalams within the city of Chennai, it is a very ancient site. All three of the Moovar, Appar, Sampanthar and Sundarar have sung Thevaram Pathikams here. Appar sang thus: வெள்ளத்தைச் சடையில் வைத்த வேதகீ தன்றன் பாதம் மெள்ளத்தானடைய வேண்டின் மெய்தரு ஞானத் தீயால் கள்ளத்தைக் கழிய நின்றார் காயத்துக் கலந்து நின்று உள்ளத்து ளொளியுமாகும் ஒற்றியூருடைய கோவே This is where the Tamil Saivite philosopher-saint Pattinathar (பட்டினத்தார்) lived and died. This is also a very important site for the Thiyagaraja belief system within Saivism which venerates the Somaskanda iconography of Siva and originated in the Chola country in the 10th century. Sankaracharya visited here in the 8th century. In existence from Pallava times, the temple was expanded in the 11th century by Rajendra Cholan I. There are many inscriptions here including an inscription belonging to Gandaraditya Cholan dated to 954 CE. This temple was in the direct path of the 100,000 strong invading force of the Delhi Sultanate under Malik Kafur in 1310 CE and bore the brunt of this invasion. Much of the temple was ransacked and destroyed. It was rebuilt again by Vijayanagara kings in the 15th and 16th centuries.The temple is now administered by the HR and CE department of the Government of Tamil Nadu. It is located in the north part of the City of Chennai. We visited in May 2023 Credits: Google Maps

தர்மேசுவரர் திருக்கோயில், மணிமங்கலம் Manimangalam is a small village just outside Chennai city on the southwest side. It is the site of the great Battle of Manimangalam fought in 642 CE between the Pallava king Narasimhavarman I and the Western Chalukya king Pulakesin II. The Pallavas emerged victorious, but Narasimhavarman’s father Mahendravarman was badly injured. The battle features in the classic historical novel by Kalki Krishnamoorthy- Sivagamyin Sabatham - சிவகாமியின் சபதம். This beautiful temple was built in its current form by the Cholas with later contributions by the Pandyas and Vijayanagar kings. Kulothunga Cholan I is credited with most of the work. The front mandapa is rebuilt by the Vijayanagar kings. It has a lot of well preserved inscriptions. The temple is in a remarkably good state of preservation. The sculptures- especially the koshta idols are beautifully crafted. It lacks a rajagopuram or kodimaram / dwajasthambam. The vimanam is of the Gajaprishta or Thoonganai Maadam style but the sanctum is rectangular and not apsidal. There are an interesting set of statuettes holding swords to their necks commemorating Chola royal bodyguards who were willing to give their lives to protect their kings. There is a window sculpted out of stone. It is situated in peaceful surroundings and the premises are nicely maintained. There is a Rudraksha - உருத்திராக்கம் tree here which bears fruit. The temple is under the control of the ASI - the Archeological Survey of India. As we looked across the green fields, which were battlefields almost 1500 years ago, our gaze fell upon the distant tall residential buildings on the outskirts of Chennai. One day soon that urban sprawl will reach here and engulf this oasis in a concrete jungle. Sad but inevitable. It is located about 43 km or one hour southwest of Chennai. We visited in May 2023. We were based in Chennai. Credits: Google Maps

தேனுபுரீசுவரர் திருக்கோயில், மாடம்பாக்கம், சென்னை This ancient and historically important Sivan temple is situated on the outskirts of Chennai city about 30 km from the centre to the southwest. It has unique features and given its architectural and cultural importance, it is jointly administered by the ASI and the HR and CE. Despite the ASI involvement, it is a very active temple and very popular. It is a monument of national importance and is a protected site. Legends say that the great sage Kapila was once born as a cow and attained redemption by worshiping the Lord here. Dhenu means cow. This temple should not be confused with another famous Dhenupureeswarar temple in the Chola country near Kumbakonam. This Dhenupureeswarar temple at Maadamabakkam built of stone was originally erected by Sundara Cholan or Paranthakan II, the father of Rajarajan, and his able minister Aniruddha Brahmadhirajan in the latter half of the 10th century. It was later expanded by Kulothungan I in the 11th century. The outer mandapam was constructed by the Vijayanagara kings in the 15th century. The temple is known for its exquisite sculptures. There are 10th and 11th century sculptures of Chola vintage in the inner core and later Vijayanagara sculptures in the outer mandapam. There is a revered sculpture of Sarabeshwara, the fierce form that Siva took to quell the anger of Narasimha, that is particularly beautiful. The sanctum and vimanam are of the Gajaprishta or Thoonganai Maadam - தூங்கானை மாடம் type. The entrance is of solid granite and of Chola style but lacks a rajagopuram. It is a Mottai Gopuram- மொட்டைக்கோபுரம். They say that the rajagopuram was never built but that is difficult to believe given the involvement of the Vijayanagara kings who were prolific builders of gopurams. It is more likely that the rajagopuram, often built of stucco and wood, has decayed over time and has been lost. There are inscriptions here from the 13th century belonging to Chola kings Kulothunga III and Rajarajan III, Jatavarman Sundara Pandyan and Vijayanagara kings Kampanna Udayar, Devaraya II and Sadasiva Raya. From a historical and architectural point of view, this is perhaps the most significant ancient Siva temple in the Chennai area. Locals refer to it as the Maadambakkam Sivan temple. It is located in the Chennai suburb of Maadamabakkam about 30 km southwest of the core of the city. We visited in May 2023. We stayed in Chennai. Credits: Google Maps

Hindu temples usually have a primary or principal deity enshrined in the garbagriham, often called the presiding murthy, and many other idols spread throughout the temple. In Sivan temples the presiding deity is often but not always a form of the Sivalingam. Other idols of Siva and sometimes an empty space to emphasize the formlessness of the Lord are also consecrated. In Vaisnavite temples various poses of Lord Vishnu and his many avatars are installed as the presiding deity. In other temples, idols of the Goddess, Ganesha or Murugan are the primary idol. Numerous other idols are found in various parts of the temples. These can be different forms of the presiding deity or other deities. Many idols are installed in the mandapams and prakarams of the temples. Some are found in various niches and others have their own subsidiary shrines. The idols installed in the outer wall (koshta) of the garbagriham are known as the koshta idols. While many diols are made of stone, some are fashioned out of other material such as metal, stucco or wood. The processional idols are ones that are taken in procession by palanquin or a chariot during various festivals. They are the utsavamurthys and are stored in the prakarams. They are usually ancient bronzes and have holes at the base to secure them when they are carried around. Besides deities there are also other sculptures in temples commemorating people such as religious figures like the Nayanmar or Aalwar and benefactors including royalty and citizens. Sivalingam: The Sivalingam is commonly used as the idol of choice in Sivan temples as a symbol of Lord Siva and is installed as the primary deity. Usually a short cylindrical structure made of stone it is sometimes made of other material like earth, sand or metal. In Saivite tradition it is an attempt to give form to Lord Shiva who is formless and amorphous. It has deep philosophical meaning. European scholars in the nineteenth century thought that it was a phallic symbol. This was a misinterpretation by people with little knowledge of the religion and has stuck in the popular imagination especially in the West, with a certain degree of malicious intent. It is not characterized as such in any Saivite literature and no practising Saivite has any such illusion. Apart from the primary idol, numerous other types of Sivalingam are found in the outer hall ways of the prakarams and on the vimanam and gopurams in many Sivan temples. Lingothbavar: A popular idol often found externally on the back wall of the Garbagriham as a koshta idol, this is a representation of Siva. It recalls the story of the legend where Lord Siva bade Lord Vishnu and Lord Brahma to find the base and the top of the column of fire he manifested as at Thiruvannamalai. It shows a human-like form of the Lord emerging out of a Sivalingam. It was popular in temples built in the Chola era. Dakshinamurty: This is a form of Lord Shiva as the great teacher or guru. Depicted seated with his left his left foot resting on his right knee, he is often seen with long matted locks of hair. He is usually a koshta idol found on the south-facing wall of the garbagriham. Dakshina means south in Sanskrit The Lord in this forms symbolizes divine knowledge, wisdom and the arts. He is sometimes shown with a veena. Durga: This form of the Goddess often seen as a koshta idol in Sivan temples, depicts the Goddess as a protectress and destroyer of evil. It is a martial form. Brahma: For various reasons set forth in many legends Lord Brahma rarely or never has temples dedicated to him He is often seen as a koshta idol with three heads. He lost one of his heads according to a legend. Perumal: Most Sivan temples have various idols of Lord Vishnu spread throughout the temple. A standing pose of Lord Vishnu is often found as a koshta idol. Ganesha or Pillaiyar: The popular Lord Vinayakar is often given a subsidiary shrine of his own. In most temples, the shrine for Ganesha is found at the far left corner of the inner prakaram as you face the temple. Many forms exist. There is almost always an idol of Lord Ganesha somewhere near the entrance as it is customary to worship him first as you enter the temple. He is also often seen as a koshta idol. Murugan or Subramaniyar: Lord Murugan is a very popular deity and he is usually given a shrine of his own at the far right corner of the inner prakaram as you enter the temple. Images of Lord murugan can be seen elsewhere in the temple too. Amman: The Goddess in her various manifestations can be seen in many parts of the temple. In most temples she has a shrine of her own. The Amman shrine is given an equal stature to the primary deity and sometimes the Amman’s importance exceeds that of the presiding deity and she becomes the primary deity. The Amman shrine is either parallel to the Lord’s shrine either to the left or right or situated perpendicular to the main shrine and facing the mahamandapam. In some temples it is customary to pay homage to the Goddess first before worshipping the Lord in his primary shrine. In Vishnu temples there are two shrines for each of Lord Vishnu’s consorts Sridevi and Boodevi. Ardhanareeswarar: This idol is half male and half female and denotes the unity of Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati as a single deity. It means that the Lord is neither male nor female but both. Bikshaadanar: This form depicts the Lord as a scantily clad idol. Here he is worshipped as a mendicant or beggar. Bhairavar or Kaala Bhairavar: This is a fierce form of Shiva, He is often depicted with a dog as his vaahanam and this form is meant to strike fear in evil doers. He often has a shrine of his own in most Sivan temples. Somaskander: The Somaskander idol set has been popular since Pallava times. It consists of Lord Siva and Goddess Parvati in a seated position besides each other with a small idol of Lord Murugan between them. It is important in the iconology of the Thiyagaraja belief system within Saivism. Umamaheswarar: This twin idol is that of Lord Siva and Goddess Parvati standing beside each other. Chandikeshwarar: The idol of Chandikeshwarar is often given a small shrine right beside and outside the sanctum sanctorum. He is a fearsome idol and is the protector of the temple. His origin is obscure. Some believe that he was one of the Nayanmar and an ardent devotee. Others believe that he is one of the many manifestations of the Lord himself. Customs vary in his worship. Some visit the Chandikeshwarar shrine to get his permission before worshipping the Lord in the sanctum. Others stop by his shrine during the clockwise circumambulation of the sanctum. He is often found at the 3 o’clock position. Some clap their hands in front of shrine. This is apparently to show that nothing is being stolen from the temple. In many temples and regions, this practice is frowned upon and discouraged. The Navagraha shrine: There is a corner shrine in most temples where the nine celestial bodies are enshrined and worshipped. Worshippers circumambulate this shrine. It appears to be a later development as the most ancient temples do not have this. Some temples have individual idols for the planetary bodies in one of the prakarams. Some temples like the Navagraha temples are dedicated to a celestial body and there is a special subsidiary shrine for that particular planetary deity while Shiva remains the primary deity in the sanctum sanctorum. The Saptha Kannis or Saptamatrikas: Often found in one of the outer prakarams, this set of 7 idols of the Goddess depict different forms of her. They are Brahmi, Maheshwari, Kowmaari, Vaishnavi, Vaaraaki, Indraani and Chamundi. Naga Idols: Spread throughout the temple, especially in the outer prakarams and around trees, you often see idols of Naga or the cobra with a spread hood. Saints: Many Sivan temples have a row of idols in the outer prakaram commemorating the 63 Nayanmar of Tamil Saivism, A special place and more prominence is given to the four Naalvar or Samaya Kuravars - Thirugnasampanthar, Thirunavukkarasar, Sundaramurthy Nayanar and Manikkavasagar. In Vaishnavite temples there are idols of the Aalwar and they are venerated. Lingams: In Saivite temples, there are also a series of secondary Sivalingams often found in one of the outer prakarams or in subsidy shrines. This is apart from the main Sivalingam in the sanctum sanctorum. They are often donated or commissioned my royalty and the benefactors in later years. Vaahanam: Nandi the bull vehicle of Lord Siva is revered as Lord Nandikeswarar. A sculpture of Nandi is seen in front of the sanctum of Sivan temples. Lord Garuda the vaahanam of Lord Vishnu has similar importance in temples dedicated to Lord Vishnu. These are but a few of the common idols seen in temples. There are many others that are not common and sometimes can be unique to a region or a temple.

ஞானபுரீசுவரர் அல்லது இடைச்சுரநாதர் திருக்கோயில், திருவடிசூலம் This ancient Paadal Petra Sivasthalam is located about 70 km southwest of Chennai and about 6 km northeast of Chengalpattu. As it is a Paadal Petra Sthalam it must have existed in some form in the early 7th century. The site could be much older. The Pallava emperor Parameswaravarman I (670-695 CE) is credited with building the first structural temple here. Many dynasties and kings have contributed to the building of this temple. The inner core as it stands today is very much Chola and the 5 tier rajagopuram is Vijayanagara (16th century) or later. There are at least 15 sets of important inscriptions here from Kulothunga I to Vijayanagara kings like Viruppanna, Bukka Raya II and Achyuta Raya. It is administered by the HR and CE Department of the Government of Tamil Nadu and the Thirukkazhukundram Vedagiriswarar Devasthanam. There are many legends about this temple. It is said that when Thirugnasampanthar was on a pilgrimage to visit the Sivan temples of Thondai Nadu, he had rested under a tree here on his way to the ancient Sivasthalam of Thirukkazhukundram nearby. A young cowherd- Idayan or இடையன்- approached him and asked whether the boy saint had heard about the ancient temple here. Sampanthar replied that he had not. So the cowherd led him to this temple and disappeared into the sanctum. It was the Lord himself playing with the young Sampanthar. Thus this place came to be known as Thiruvidaichuram. Sampanthar rendered a pathikam for this temple. வரிவள ரவிரொளி யரவரை தாழ வார்சடை முடிமிசை வளர்மதி சூடிக் கரிவளர் தருகழல் கால்வல னேந்திக் கனலெரி யாடுவர் காடரங் காக விரிவளர் தருபொழில் இளமயில் ஆல வெண்ணிறத் தருவிகள் திண்ணென வீழும் எரிவள ரினமணி புனமணி சாரல் இடைச்சுர மேவிய இவர்வண மென்னே It is also true that this temple is situated between two hills. Idai also mean between in Tamil. Another reason for the temple to be called Thiruvidaichuram. Today the name of the village has evolved to Thiruvadisoolam. It is located about 70 km or 2 hours southwest of Chennai. We visited in May 2023. We were based in Chennai. Credits: Google Maps

முன்குடுமீசுவரர் திருக்கோயில், பொன்விளைந்தக்களத்தூர் This temple was originally a Pallava brick and earth structure built by Nandivarman III. It was rebuilt as a stone temple by the Cholas. Vikrama Cholan and Kulothunga Cholan contributed most to the construction of the temple as it stands today. I could see some Vijayanagar and Nayakkan additions but no modern appendages. There are many inscriptions from Nandivarman III to Rajarajan III to Sundara Pandiyan. The temple is small but has important architectural elements. The Sivan Sannithy has a Gajaprishta Vimanam or a Thoonganai Maadam. But the sanctum is rectangular as opposed to apsidal in a classic Gajaprishtam. It stands today in a quiet and beautiful village amid green paddy fields. There is an interesting legend about why the Lord is called Munkudumeeswarar. Apparently in ancient times, it was customary for the local king to be presented with the offerings to the Lord (the Prashadam) after the morning pooja. One day the king noticed a long strand of hair in the bunch of flowers in the Prashadam. He was annoyed. The priest’s wife or the queen (different versions put the blame on different women) had worn the flowers on their hair which was taboo. The priest wanted to protect the lady involved and lied. He told the king that the Lord had grown hair. The king insisted that he would come the next morning to inspect the idol and if the priest had lied, his head would be chopped off. In answer to the priest’s fervent entreaties, the Lord grew a tuft of hair, a forelock or Munkudumi (முன்குடுமி) and to this day the idol has a forelock. Ponvilaintha Kalathur means the village of the golden harvest. There are also many legends why this village got that name. The story goes that the Lord provided a harvest of gold to a poor farmer to get him out of trouble. There are many versions. The author of the Nalavenba the poet Pukazhenthi was born here. It is also the birthplace of Kootruvanayanar one of the 63 Nayanmar. This is a temple I have been wanting to visit for a very long time. For ten or more years I have read about it, looked at pictures and videos and when we finally reached there, it gave me a feeling of deja vu and goose bumps. This is an ASI administered Sivan temple and hardly anybody visits there. It is an inactive or minimally active temple and a priest conducts a pooja early in the morning and leaves. The temple is locked for the rest of the day. When we went there, the ASI guard opened the gate for us and then ran into the village to fetch the priest, who graciously opened the temple for us, conducted poojas at both sanctums, gave us a tour of the premises and explained the history and legends. We thought that they mistook us for some very important people they were expecting. We felt truly blessed. It is about 8 kms from Chengalpattu and is about 75 km or 2 hours from Chennai. We visited in May 2023. We were based in Chennai. Credits: Google Maps

வாசீசுவரர் திருக்கோயில், திருப்பாசூர் This Paadal Petra Sivasthalam is found about 50 km west of Chennai. Thirugnanasampanthar and Thirunavukkarasar have composed pathikams in praise of the Lord here. Gnanasampanthar sang thus: சிந்தை யிடையார் தலையின் மிசையார் செஞ்சொல்லார் வந்து மாலை வைகும் போழ்தென் மனத்துள்ளார் மைந்தர் மணாள ரென்ன மகிழ்வாரூர்போலும் பைந்தண் மாதவி சோலை சூழ்ந்த பாசூரே Legends say that in the time of Karikal Valavan, the 3rd century CE Chola king, a group of men were clearing a bamboo forest with adzes (an axe like tool) when they struck the Sivalingam that is consecrated here. Vasi - வாசி - means an adze and Paasu- பாசு- is another word for bamboo in Tamil. Thus the Lord here is named Vaseeswarar and the temple became Thirupaasur. It is believed that the Lord fell in love with the Goddess here. That is why she is called Thankathali Amman- தங்காதலி- தன் காதலி. Young couples come here to be blessed with a happy married life. There are 16 sets of inscriptions here and 5 of them are in good condition and are very important. There are inscriptions of Rajarajan, Kulothunga I and Rajendra Chola III. A Pallava temple converted to a granite Chola temple, it retains a lot of the Pallava imprints in the inner core. The columns in the 2nd prakaram are circular in shape, simple in form and are from late Pallava or early Chola times. Very different from the later Chola, Vijayanagar and Nayakkan columns that are much more ornate. Much of the masonry including the 5 tier rajagopuram and the gopuram-shaped vimanam of the Amman Sannithy are from Vijayanagar times in the 16th century. The vimanam over the Sivan Sannithy is of the Gajaprishta or Thoonganai Maadam (தூங்கானை மாடம்) type. It is supposed to be shaped like an elephant’s back. Gaja is elephant and Prishta is back in Sanskrit. This feature was very popular in the Thondai Mandalam temples in the 10th to 12th centuries and were built by the Cholas. Long neglected and in a condition of decay until recently, it has now been renovated and looked nice when we visited. It is under the control of the HR and CE department of the Government of Tamil Nadu. It is located about 1 hour or 50 km west of Chennai. We visited in May 2023. We were based in Chennai. Credits: Google Maps

அகத்தீசுவரர் திருக்கோயில், பொழிச்சலூர், சென்னை This ancient Chola Sivan temple is one the nine temples around Chennai which are known as the Navagraha temples of Chennai. It is dedicated to Lord Saneeswarar or Saturn. It is also called the Pozhichalur Saneeswarar temple and is popular for this reason. It is also sometimes referred to as Vada Thirunallar, Thirunallar being the most famous Saneeswarar temple. That temple is in the Kaveri Delta, near Kumbakonam. Despite its significance, today this temple is a shadow of it former glory. It is in a poor neighbourhood and has been heavily encroached upon on all sides as is common at various minor temples in Chennai. Renovated without archeological supervision, a lot of the historical features such as inscriptions have been lost. Gaudily repainted, it looks nice in a way, but certainly could be maintained better. One feature that stands out nicely is the Gajaprishta Vimanam or Thoonganai Maadam and the apsidal walls of the sanctum which are clearly visible here. The sanctum looks like original Chola construction. The vimanam likely has been rebuilt in modern times, retaining the original style. It lacks a rajagopuram and has a mottaigopuram. The temple was initially built in the 12th century. It is controlled by the HR and CE and is an example of how a historically important temple should not be maintained. It indeed makes you sad. It is located in Chennai very close to the airport. We visited in May 2023. Credits: Google Maps

சுப்பிரமணிய சுவாமி திருக்கோயில், திருத்தணி Situated about 2.5 hours west of Chennai, this is an ancient and important Murugan temple. Its antiquity is evident from its mention in Nakkeerar’s Thirumurugatruppadai - திருமுருகாற்றுப்படை, the 3rd century CE Sangam work. Legends abound. It is celebrated in the 14th century work by Arunagirinathar, the Thirupuhazh (திருப்புகழ்). The structures that exist today are from the Vijayanagar era in the 16th century and later. It sits on top of a hill 700 feet above sea level. There are 365 steps that stand for the days in a year, to climb to get to the top. There is a motorable road leading up to the temple now. It is one of the Arupadai Veedu - ஆறு படை வீடு - the 6 Abodes of Lord Murugan or the 6 encampments of Lord Murugan reflecting his martial nature. The other 5 are Palani, Thiruparankundram, Pazhamuthircholai, Swamimalai and Thiruchendur. It is a very popular pilgrimage site. It is located about 90 km or 2.5 hours west of Chennai. We visited in May 2023. We were based in Chennai. Credits: Google Maps