சலநாதீசுவரர் திருக்கோயில், தக்கோலம் Known in ancient times as Thiruvooral (திருவூறல்), this beautiful Sivan temple is a Paadal Petra Sthalam. It is believed that there was a natural spring that was fashioned into a fountain and water poured out of the Nandi’s mouth and reached the nearby Kallaru (known today as Kusithalai River or Kosasthalayar in its lower reaches). Hence the name Ooral-ஊறல். This is not evident now. Thirugnanasampanthar sang the pathikam for this temple. மாறில் அவுணரரணம் மவைமாயவோர் வெங்கணையா லன்று நீறெழ எய்தவெங்கள் நிமலன் இடம்வினவில் தேறல் இரும்பொழிலும் திகழ்செங்கயல் பாய்வயலுஞ் சூழ்ந்த ஊறல் அமர்ந்தபிரான் ஒலியார்கழல் உள்குதுமே. Although the temple had existed in the 7th century when Sampanthar visited there, it was built as a stone temple by Aparajithavarman, the last Pallava emperor in 876 CE. The core architecture still shows the Pallava influence. The 3 tier, squat and solid rajagopuram was built in 1543 CE by the Vijayanagara emperor Veera Pradhaba Sadasiva Maharaya. This temple bore witness to one of the most significant battles in Tamil history - the Battle of Thakkolam (தக்கோலப்போர்) - fought in late 948 or early 949 CE, between the emerging Cholas and the Rashtrakutas for control of South India. Crown prince Rajaditya Cholan, eldest son of Paranthakan I, heir apparent and very capable general, met Krishna III and his invading Rashtrakuta forces just outside of this town. The Cholas lost badly and Rajadityan was killed. The exact nature of his death is unclear but it is believed that an arrow pierced his chest while he was on his war elephant - later Chola inscriptions mention him as - யானை மீது துஞ்சிய தேவர் ( The Lord who died on an elephant). The Chola garrison at Thakkolam was almost annihilated. The death toll exceeded a hundred thousand. The blood flowed like a river it is said and reddened the waters of the Kallaru. The famed Chola army retreated in disarray and Thanjavur was briefly occupied and ransacked. It took several years to rebuild Chola strength after this defeat, but they went on to win many more battles during the time of Sundara Cholan (Paranthakan II) - Rajaditiyan’s nephew, his younger brother Arinjayan’s son and Rajarajan’s father. As we drove away from this historic town, we couldn’t help gazing at the peaceful, green fields with cattle and water buffalo grazing on the verdant grass and wonder about the thousands who died here more than a thousand years ago. The temple is situated close to Thiruvalankadu and is about 2 hours or 64 km west of Chennai. We visited in May 2023. We were based in Chennai. Credits: Google Maps

வடாரண்யேசுவரர் திருக்கோயில், திருவாலங்காடு This is a very significant temple for Tamil Saivite Hindus. A Sivan temple that is about 2 hours west of Chennai, it is a vast and beautiful temple with a lot of legends and an amazing history. It is a Paadal Petra Sthalam and one of only 44 where all three of the Moovar (Sampanthar, Appar and Suntharar) have rendered pathikams. This temple is associated with Karaikkal Ammaiyar (காரைக்கால் அம்மையார்), one of only three females among the 63 Nayanmar. Karaikal Ammaiayar was born into a rich merchant family in Karaikal near Nagapattinam. Her name at birth was Punithavathi. She lived in the 5th century. She became a Saivite ascetic at a young age and dedicated her life to the service of the Lord. She spent her last days here at Thiruvalangadu before she died. The original temple was under a banyan tree in a banyan forest. Aal (ஆல்) is a banyan tree in Tamil. Kaadu (காடு) is a forest. The tree is still venerated in this temple. This is one of the 5 Pancha Sabai Temples - the five dancing halls - the 5 temples where the Lord performed his cosmic dance. Chidambaram is the Golden Hall - the Potsabai or Ponnambalam (பொற்சபை). The Silver Hall - the வெள்ளி சபை - is in Madurai. The Nellaiappar at Thirunelvely is the தாமிரசபை- the Hall of Copper. At Kutralam is the Hall of Paintings - the Chitra Sabai (சித்திரசபை). Here at Thiruvalankadu is the Hall of Jewels or Gems - the Ratna Sabai (இரத்தின சபை). The story is that once Lord Siva and the Goddess got into an intense dance competition. When the Lord’s earring fell to the floor he picked it with the toes of his left foot and put it on again. The Goddess could not match this kind of agility and conceded defeat. The dance the Lord performed here is the Oorthuvathandavam (ஊர்த்துவ தாண்டவம்). Here like in many Sivan temples, the Goddess takes precedence and it is customary to worship the Goddess at her shrine before proceeding to the Siva shrine. Originally a Pallava brick structure, it was turned into a granite temple by the Cholas and was greatly expanded by Kulothunga I. A long line of monarchs from Paranthakan I to Vijayanagar kings have left their mark here. It is located about 65 km or 2 hours west of Chennai. We visited in May 2023. We were based in Chennai. For us, this visit completed our visits to all five of the Pancha Sabais and was a very fulfilling experience. Credits: Google Maps

வேதபுரீசுவரர் திருக்கோயில், திருவோத்தூர், செய்யாறு A 2 hour drive from Pondicherry and 3 hours from Chennai, is this very old temple with numerous legends around it and a very ancient history. The original temple has existed here at least since the 6th century. A brick structure during Pallava times, it was rebuilt in granite by the Cholas and added onto in later eras. Adityan I is supposed to have built the granite structure but the first inscriptions date back to his son Paranthakan I. Every major Chola king including Rajarajan and Rajendran I, have left inscriptions here. There are also inscriptions from later Pandian, Rashtrakuta, Kadava and Sambuvarayan kings. Lord Siva himself is supposed to have expounded the Vedas to the sages here. Hence the name Vedapureeswarar for the Lord here. The place is also called Thiruvethipuram for the same reason. Thiruvothur also comes from Othu (ஓது) which stands for reciting the Vedas. The Nandi here faces the opposite direction and is looking outwards towards the Rajagopuram. Usually the Nandi faces the sanctum. This is a rare exception only found in a very few temples. The explanation is that Nandi was guarding the temple while Lord Siva was explaining the meaning of the Vedas to the sages. There are other legends about the reason too. This is a Paadal Petra Sthalam and Thirugnasampanthar sang the pathikam. Thirunavukkarasar has also been here but the pathikam has never been found. In the early 7th century, the story goes that this place was mostly inhabited by people of the Jain faith. There was an old man who was looking after this temple who was a devotee of Lord Siva. He was poor and once planted a grove of palmyrah trees to make ends meet. But when the trees grew to maturity, they turned out to be male trees which did not bear any fruit. (The palmyrah palm has a male and female tree apparently and only the female tree bears fruit). The Jains made fun of the old man and his Lord. They swore that they would convert to Saivism if Lord Siva could turn the male trees into female ones. Thirugnanasampanthar is supposed to have come here on his wanderings and having heard the plight of the old man, sang the pathikam and all the male palmyrah trees became female in due course and bore fruit. பூத் தேர்ந்து ஆயன கொண்டு, நின் பொன் அடி ஏத்தாதார் இல்லை, எண்ணுங்கால் ஓத்தூர் மேய ஒளி மழுவாள் அங்கைக் கூத்தீர்! உம குணங்களே. With a tall 7 tier rajagopuram and several sub-shrines, it is a beautiful temple. Recently renovated, it looks neat and nice. It is another temple that celebrates the palmyrah tree which is the temple tree here. There is an interesting sculpture of a palmyrah tree inside the temple which is half male and half female. It is located about a 100 km southwest of Chennai and about a 100 km northwest of Pondicherry. The drive is about 3 hours from Chennai and 2 hours from Pondicherry. We visited in May 2023. We were based in Pondicherry. Credits: Google Maps

வேதபுரீசுவரர் திருக்கோயில், புதுச்சேரி This is an ancient and popular temple within the city of Pondicherry. It is a Sivan temple. Originally built in Cholan times, it was completely demolished by French troops in 1748 when Joseph Francois Dupleix was governor of French India. Several of the idols were salvaged from the rubble by volunteers and hidden in nearby smaller temples and the nearby Varatharaja Perumal temple. It was reconstructed by locals in 1788 with permission from the French government. The presiding deity was repatriated here from a small temple in the vicinity and reconsecrated only in the 19th century. Today it is a calm oasis in a very hectic part of town. Its towering 7 tier rajagopuram fronts onto a busy street It is located in the heart of Pondicherry city. We visited in May 2023. We stayed in Pondicherry. Credits: Google Maps

தாளகிரீசுவரர் கோயில், பனைமலை About 90 km due west of Pondicherry lies this historic Sivan temple set amongst lush green fields and rocky outcrops. The temple is atop a small hill literally in the middle of nowhere. The location is serene. Built by the great Pallava king Narasimhavarman II also known as Rajasimhan (CE 700- 728), it is one the earliest structural stone temples to be built that is still standing. Rajasimhan also built the better known Shore Temple at Mahabalipuram and the Kailasanathar at Kanchipuram. They were all built around the same time. Heavily vandalized over the centuries, what remains is still truly beautiful. With its large lion motifs, the characteristic Somaskanda relief panel and Sanskrit inscriptions in fluid grantha ( கிரந்தை), it has all the trappings of a Pallava monument. The atmosphere is peaceful and you can appreciate the handiwork of the Pallava stonemasons and sculptors at leisure, far from the maddening crowds. It is indeed a hidden treasure. Thaal means palmyrah and giri means hill in Sanskrit. Panai is Tamil for palmyrah and malai means hill. So Thaalagiri and Panamalai mean the same thing. 1300 years ago the hill must have been full of palmyrah trees. Although the country around has a lot these trees, there aren’t too many on the hill. Although this is an ASI property, it needs better care. It is essentially a dead temple. There is a tribe of monkeys that live on this hill and sometimes bother visitors. Luckily for us, they had left for another hillock nearby that morning to look for food and we did not encounter them. I did not take my big camera up the hill because of the monkeys. They tend to grab things that you carry. The photos were all taken using my iPhone except for the long shot for which I used my Nikon DSLR. It is located about 1.5 hours or 90 km west of Pondicherry near Viluppuram. We visited in May 2023. We were based in Pondicherry. Credits: Google Maps

வரதராஜ பெருமாள் திருக்கோயில், புதுச்சேரி Situated in the heart of Pondicherry city and within walking distance of the Vedapureeswarar Sivan Koil and on the same street, is this historic temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu. With its imposing 5 tier rajagopuram and large premises, it is a grand temple. Although a lot of temples were destroyed in this area during earlier Muslim invasions and later by the French, this temple has miraculously survived. Built in the 11th century by Chola kings and later expanded by the Pandians, a lot of renovations and recent additions give it a relatively modern look. The original core structures are still present with numerous, invaluable inscriptions. There is an inscription here dated to 1048, describing a donation for the eternal recital of the Thiruvaimozhi. It is a protected monument under the care of the ASI and is jointly administered by the HR and CE Department of the Government of Pondicherry. It is located in Pondicherry city. We visited in May 2023. We stayed in Pondicherry. Varadharajaperumal Pondicherry Varadharajaperumal Pondicherry Credits: Google Maps

பனங்காட்டீசுவரர் திருக்கோயி்ல், பனையபுரம் An ancient Sivan temple dating back to Pallava times, it is less than an hour west of Pondicherry. It is a Paadal Petra Sthalam and Thirugnasampanthar composed the pathikam for this temple. விண்ணமர்ந்தன மும் மதில்களை வீழவெங்கணையாலெய் தாய்விரி பண்ணமர்ந்தொலிசேர் புறவார் பனங்காட்டூர்ப் பெண்ணமர்ந்தொரு பாகமாகிய பிஞ்ஞகா பிறைசேர்நுதலிடைக் கண்ணமர்ந்தவனே கலந்தார்க்கு அருளாயே In those times this place was called Puravaar Panangattur - புறவார் பனங்காட்டூர் - which means a palmyrah forest. Together with a number of other temples in this region and beyond, it venerates the palmyrah palm tree which has played such an important role in Tamil culture. There are several inscriptions here belonging to Rajendra Cholan, Rajendran II, Athirajendran, Kulothungan I, Jadavarman Sundarapandian and Vikrama Pandian I. During Chola times this village was called Paravaipuram after Paravai, the personal assistant and confidante of Rajendran I, who hailed from this place. Rajendran I rebuilt this temple which was again renovated by Kulothungan I. It has a 4 tier rajagopuram that does not have any stucco images. The large lingothbavar in the rear koshtam of the moolasthaanam is impressive and classic Cholan. Lot of history here. It almost got destroyed a few years ago during expansion of the national highway system and had to be saved by a lot of effort by locals and others. The highway eventually got rerouted. The temple is under HR and CE control and needs better care. It is located about 60 km or 1 hour west of Pondicherry. We visited in May 2023. We were based in Pondicherry. Credits: Google Maps

சந்திரமவுலீசுவரர் திருக்கோயில் அல்லது திருவக்ரகாளியம்மன் ஆலயம், திருவக்கரை Situated in Vilupuram District of Tamil Nadu near Thindivanam just outside of Pondicherry, this ancient temple is a Sivan temple and a Paadal Petra Sthalam but is better known for the Amman shrine here - Vakrakaliamman. Legend says that a demon called Vakrasuran was slain here and the place was called Vakrapuri in ancient times. Hence the name for the Goddess here. Like places such as Madurai (Meenakshi) or Kanchipuram the goddess takes preeminence over the Lord here. The pathikam was rendered by Thirugnanasambanthar. கறையணி மாமிடற்றான் கரி காடரங் காவுடையான் பிறையணி கொன்றையினா னொரு பாகமும் பெண்ணமர்ந்தான் மறையவன் றன்றலையிற் பலி கொள்பவன் வக்கரையில் உறைபவ னெங்கள்பிரா னொலி யார்கழ லுள்குதுமே The temple has existed since Pallava times according to references. The earliest inscriptions pertain to the reign of Aditya I ( Paranthakan I ‘s father) essentially the first Chola emperor in the early 10th century. He is credited with the initial construction in granite but a number of Chola kings and queens have made contributions to the temple in later years. Sembian Mahadevi, Rajarajan, Rajendran and Athirajendran have all made contributions and inscriptions. The beautiful seven tiered rajagopuram is likely Nayakkan or later. This temple has some unusual features. Unlike other temples the rajagopuram, kodimaram, Nandi and the moolasthaanam are not in a straight line. It could be that due to the great antiquity of the temple, they were built in different eras. Or was it by design? Vakkiram means crooked in Tamil. The Saneeswaran here is also unusual in that his vahanam (vehicle) the crow faces left as opposed to right everywhere else. He is called Vakrasaneeswarar here and is thought to be very special. The lingam in the sanctum sanctorum has three faces and is also very unique. The temple is very popular and was very crowded when we were there. There were signs forbidding photos and I could not take good pictures as there were people everywhere. It is located 25 km or 45 minutes west of Pondicherry. We visited in May 2023. We were based in Pondicherry. Credits: Google Maps

திரு அரசலீசுவரர் ஆலயம், திருஅரசிலி, ஒழிந்தியாபட்டு Situated very close to Pondicherry but in Tamil Nadu, this small beautiful temple is a Paadal Petra Sthalam venerated in Thevara Pathikam by Thirugnanasampanthar. பாடல் வண்டறை கொன்றை பால்மதி பாய்புனற் கங்கை கோடல் கூவிள மாலை மத்தமுஞ் செஞ்சடைக் குலாவி வாடல் வெண்டலை மாலை மருவிட வல்லியம் தோள்மேல் ஆடல் மாசுணம் அசைத்த அடிகளுக் கிடம்அர சிலியே. Known as Thiruarasili in ancient times the village is called Ozhinthiyapattu or Olinthiapattu these days. Given the great antiquity of this temple, many legends and myths abound here. The story goes that a king was once worshiping a lingam here and a deer was eating the flowers that the king had offered to the Lord. The king shot an arrow at the deer and injured it only to find that the deer was indeed the Lord in disguise. The sivalingam in the sanctum still has the injury they say. The Dakshinamurty in the south koshtam (niche) here is unique in that it has a Nataraja figure in the ananthathandavam above it. The koshta idol in the Western wall of the sanctum is Mahavishnu. In most Chola temples it is Lingothbavar. Believed to be reconstructed by the Chalukyans (the Eastern Chalukyans of Vengi had marital relations with Chola royalty and were close allies in their conflicts with the Western Chalukyans) in the 11th century. The Tamil inscriptions here belong to the reigns of Kulothunga Cholan I and his son Vikrama Cholan. The stucco images likely belong to a later era, likely Nayakkan. It is located about 25 km or 45 minutes to the northwest of Pondicherry. We visited in May 2023. We were based in Pondicherry. Credits: Google Maps

மகாகாளேசுவரர் திருக்கோயில், திரு இரும்பை மாகாளம் This relatively small but ancient Shivan temple is just outside of Pondicherry and is a Paadal Petra Sthalam. Thirugnanasampanthar composed the pathikam here. Legend says that there are 3 Mahakaleshwarar temples. One is the famous Jyotirlinga shrine in Ujjain, Madhya Pradesh. Another is in Thiruvambar in the Kaveri Delta. This is the third one. The three faced copper plated lingam here is thought to be very unique. மண்டு கங்கைசடையிற் கரந்தும் மதிசூடிமான் கொண்ட கையாற் புரமூன்றெரித்த குழகன்னிடம் எண்திசையும் புகழ்போய் விளங்கும் இரும்பைதனுள் வண்டுகீதம் முரல்பொழில் கலாய்நின்ற மாகாளமே Most of the current architecture is from the Chola period. Kulothungan III was the most important contributor with later contributions from Pandyan kings. Very beautiful murals give this temple a very special look. These are likely of more recent origin. The single tiered circular vimanams over the sanctums here are thought to be excellent examples of the Ekadala style. A quiet, cozy but important temple where you could get close to the Lord. It is located about 9 km or 15 minutes by car to the northwest of Pondicherry. We visited in May 2023. We were based in Pondicherry. Credits: Google Maps

உலகளந்த பெருமாள் திருக்கோயில், திருக்கோவிலூர் This is an important temple in the ancient town of Thirukoilur or Thirukovilur on the banks of the Then Pennai River (தென் பெண்ணை ஆறு). It is one of the 108 Divya Desam temples that are very sacred in Tamil Vaishnavite Hinduism. Divya Desams are temples venerated in the Naalayira Divya Prabandham ( நாளாயிர திவ்விய பிரபந்தம்), the 4000 verses sung by the 12 Aalwar (ஆழ்வார்) poet saints. The Aalwar were similar to the Saivite Nayanmar and lived around the same time. They sang in praise of Lord Vishnu. The term Ulagalantha Perumal denotes the Lord who measured the earth. The other well-known Ulagalantha Perumal temple is in Kanchipuram. The wooden idol of Lord Mahavishnu in the sanctum has his right leg lifted up with which he measures the earth. The 21 foot idol is one of the tallest idols in India. At 5 acres or 20,000 square meters it is the largest temple in Thirukoilur. With two towering rajagopurams and multiple prakarams it is a huge complex. The first rajagopuram is 192 feet (59 m) and is the third tallest in Tamil Nadu after the ones in Srirangam and Srivilliputhur. It has 11 tiers and the inner one has 7. It is located in Tamil Nadu. 88 km or 2 hours from Pondicherry and 35 km or 30 minutes from Thiruvannamalai. The nearest big town is Vilupuram. We visited in May 2023. We were based in Pondicherry. Credits: Google Maps.

வீரட்டேசுவரர் திருக்கோயில், திருக்கோவிலூர் அல்லது திருக்கோயிலூர் Thirukoilur or Thirukovilur or Thirukovalur as it is sometimes referred to in ancient texts is a temple town immersed in Tamil history. Many beautiful temples exist here. This Sivan temple is a Paadal Petra Sthalam and has a lot of Saivite history embedded in it. Thirugnanasampanthar and Thirunavukkarasar composed the pathikams here. It is one of the 8 Ashtaveerattana Sthalams which commemorate a valiant deed of the Lord. The temple has existed from Pallava times with contributions from Nandhivarma Pallavan and later Chola kings including Paranthakan I, Rajarajan and Rajendran. Many important inscriptions (கல்வெட்டு) are found here. Thirukoilur was the domain of the Malayaman kings from Sangam times to the Chola imperial era. They had close marital ties to the Cholas and were staunch allies and vassals. Vananmadevi, queen of Paranthakan II or Sundara Cholan was a Malayaman princess and was born here in Thirukoilur. Her three children Aditya Karikalan, Kundavai and Arunmolivarman (later Rajarajan) were also born here. There is an inscription in this temple testifying to the birth of the future great emperor here. Some sources erroneously claim that he was born in Thanjavur. Both the princes spent part of their childhood here with their maternal grandparents. Despite the historical significance, the temple itself is not very large. Today it is controlled by the HR and CE and is poorly maintained. Certainly needs more attention. It is located in Tamil Nadu, 88 km or 2 hours from Pondicherry and 35 km or 30 minutes from Thiruvannamalai. The nearest big town is Vilupuram. We visited in May 2023. We were based in Pondicherry. We were in a rush as it was close to closing time of the temple and we did not have enough time to take good pictures. Credits: Google Maps.