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ஏகாம்பரநாதர் அல்லது ஏகாம்பரேசுவரர் திருக்கோயில் காஞ்சிபுரம் One of the most sacred Saivite temples in Tamil Nadu, this ancient Sivasthalam is a very special temple. It is one the five Pancha Bootha Sthalams. Here the Lord is celebrated as the Earth - the Prithvilingam. The lingam in the sanctum is made of sand. It is venerated in Thevaram by all three of the Moovar and Manickavasagar, making it one of the temples celebrated by all four of the Kuravars. It is the first Paadal Petra Sthalam in the Thondai Nadu. It is mentioned in numerous other Tamil Saivite literary works. It has a Vishnu shrine within the premises celebrated in the Naalayira Divya Prabandham, making it a Divya Desam temple also. Only two temples including the Thillai Natarajar at Chidambaram have this rare distinction. It is a vast temple and covers an area of 23 acres. Together with the adjacent Kamakshi Amman temple and the Kumarakottam Murugan temple in the middle, it forms a Somaskanda configuration. The 59 m or 192 feet rajagopuram built by the great Vijayanagara emperor Krishnadevaraya in 1509 is one of the tallest in South India. It has nine tiers or nilai. It has wide prakarams and numerous beautiful sculptures. An ancient mango tree is the Sthala Virutcham here. The temple predates the Pallavas and was certainly in existence in the 7th century as it was venerated by the Nayanmar in the Thevaram. It was rebuilt by the Pallavas and rebuilt again by the Cholas. Vijayanagar and Nayakkan kings also contributed much to its maintenance and expansion. During colonial time the great philanthropist, Pachaiyappa Mudaliar in the 18th century and the Nattukkottai Chettiar in the 19th and early 20th centuries were very generous in their support of this temple. Today it is under control of the HR and CE Department of the Government of Tamil Nadu. It is located in Kanchipuram, about 80 km or 2 hours southwest of Chennai. We visited in July 2010. We were based in Chennai. Credits: Google Maps

ஆதிபுரீசுவரர் அல்லது தியாகராஜ சுவாமி திருக்கோயில், திருவொற்றியூர், சென்னை This vast and much revered Paadal Petra Sivasthalam, also referred to as the Vadivudai Amman Temple, is situated in the northern part of Chennai city. Today this part of Chennai is a poor and crime ridden area of town known for gangs and violence. When we tried to visit here in previous years we were discouraged by many including our drivers. When we visited in May 2023 also our driver was very reluctant to venture out here but we were determined to go, although a bit nervous at the same time. It turned out to be a very pleasant experience. One of only four Paadal Petra Sthalams within the city of Chennai, it is a very ancient site. All three of the Moovar, Appar, Sampanthar and Sundarar have sung Thevaram Pathikams here. Appar sang thus: வெள்ளத்தைச் சடையில் வைத்த வேதகீ தன்றன் பாதம் மெள்ளத்தானடைய வேண்டின் மெய்தரு ஞானத் தீயால் கள்ளத்தைக் கழிய நின்றார் காயத்துக் கலந்து நின்று உள்ளத்து ளொளியுமாகும் ஒற்றியூருடைய கோவே This is where the Tamil Saivite philosopher-saint Pattinathar (பட்டினத்தார்) lived and died. This is also a very important site for the Thiyagaraja belief system within Saivism which venerates the Somaskanda iconography of Siva and originated in the Chola country in the 10th century. Sankaracharya visited here in the 8th century. In existence from Pallava times, the temple was expanded in the 11th century by Rajendra Cholan I. There are many inscriptions here including an inscription belonging to Gandaraditya Cholan dated to 954 CE. This temple was in the direct path of the 100,000 strong invading force of the Delhi Sultanate under Malik Kafur in 1310 CE and bore the brunt of this invasion. Much of the temple was ransacked and destroyed. It was rebuilt again by Vijayanagara kings in the 15th and 16th centuries.The temple is now administered by the HR and CE department of the Government of Tamil Nadu. It is located in the north part of the City of Chennai. We visited in May 2023 Credits: Google Maps

திருவலிதாயம் திருவல்லீசுவரர் திருக்கோயில் பாடி சென்னை Of the four Paadal Petra Sthalams within metropolitan Chennai, this is likely the least well known. Situated in the industrial and working class neighbourhood of Padi, it is not as famous as others such as the Kapaleeswarar in Mylapore or the Marundeeswarar in Thiruvanmiyur. Today the temple is popular with the locals as it is associated with Guru or Jupiter and is one of the Navagraha temples around Chennai. The temple must have been in existence in some form in the early 7th century as Sampanthar has praised it in his Thevaram. It was a much larger complex during the heyday of the Chola empire in the 11th and 12th centuries when much of the temple was rebuilt by Rajarajan III and Kulothungan III. Added on to during Vijayanagar and Nayakkan times, it must have been a grand temple. Heavily encroached upon by an expanding city, today only the core remnant remains. The nearby Padaivettu Amman Koil a kilometre away was part of the original complex and is proof of the large extent of the original temple. Chola military commanders paid homage to the Amman here before their northern campaigns. The name Padi likely came from the Chola military encampment that existed here. Padi means a military settlement. Some say that it got its name from the Nayanmar and others who sang hymns in praise of the lord here. The sanctum and the Vimanam here are of the Gajaprishta or Thoonganai Maadam type. It is a fine example of this type of Vimanam that was very popular in the later Chola period. Although this is only a small part of the original temple, it is still a large complex. The relatively small 3 tier rajagopuram is likely a gopuram over an inner entrance way. The outer prakarams have been swallowed by encroachments from an expanding city. It is a beautiful and ancient temple in a bustling part of the city. It is located in the Padi neighbourhood in the western part of the city of Chennai. The locals refer to it as the Padi Sivan Koil. We visited in August 2017. We stayed in Chennai. Credits: Google Maps

வேதகிரீசுவரர் மற்றும் பக்தவத்சலேசுவரர் திருக்கோயில் திருக்கழுக்குன்றம் Also spelled Thirukkazhukundram (the "zh" stands for the retroflex "l" in Tamil), this is actually a twin temple complex. The beautiful temple at the base of the hill is known as the Bhaktavachaleswarar Temple and the temple on the hilltop is the Vedagiriswarar Temple. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, these two temples are much venerated and have a long and celebrated history. Thirukalukundram is praised in the Thevaram and the Thiruvasagam. It is one of those temples that have the special distinction of being mentioned in the works of all four of the Naalvar, Thirugnasampanthar, Thirunavukkarasar, Sundaramoorthy Nayanar and Manickavasagar. Thus it is a Paadal Petra Sthalam and a Thiruvasaga Sthalam. Legends abound here. Until recently two Egyptian Vultures used to visit the temple on the hilltop every day at noon to be fed by the priests. Egyptian vultures are native to India despite their name. The birds that came here were vultures and not eagles as mentioned in some places. They disappeared in the late 1990s. The story goes that two ancient sages who had a spell cast on them by the Lord for their arrogance, were destined to live as vultures and prayed here for many yugas for their salvation. When they had done their penance they would be liberated. Another belief is that they would come only until good people existed in the area in this Kali Yugam. Another explanation is that the widespread use of the commonly used anti-inflammatory medication diclofenac has devastated the vulture population in India. Diclofenac which is found in the carcasses of animals the vultures consume causes kidney failure in vultures within hours. Diclofenac is used to treat cattle in veterinary medicine. Whatever the reason the birds do not come to this temple complex named after them anymore. The Bhaktavachaleswarar temple is a complete large temple at the bottom of the hill with four magnificent gopurams and theerthams. It is customary to visit it first and then climb the 562 steps to visit the Vedagiriswarar on the hilltop. The hilltop temple is seemingly precariously positioned on the summit of the hill. The hill is about 500 feet in height. The area comprising the two temples and sacred hill is a vast 265 acres. The Vedagiriswarar does not have a Nandhi at the top. The Nandhi is located at the Bhaktavachaleswarar and is gazing towards the hill. The vimanam of the Bhaktavachaleswarar temple is of the Gajaprishta or Thoonganai Maadam style Given its great antiquity and spiritual significance, it has had contributions from many dynasties and individuals from different eras. The small cave temple found close to the top on the hillside, known as Orukkal Mandapam (ஒருக்கல் மண்டபம்- single stone mandapam) is believed to have been built by the Pallava king Mahendra Varman who ruled from CE 610 to 640. It has been heavily vandalized by British soldiers who were stationed here during the colonial period. Thirukalukundram is a special temple in so many ways and is one of my favourites. It is located in Chengalpattu, 2 hours or 72 km south of Chennai. We visited in August 2017, May 2023 and August 2024. We were based in Chennai Photos updated November 2024 Credits: Google Maps

கபாலீசுவரர் திருக்கோயில் மயிலாப்பூர் சென்னை This ancient temple was originally located close to the seashore in Mylapore. It was destroyed during the Portuguese occupation of this area in 1566. The original site is believed to have been where the San Thome Cathedral stands today. It was built in the 7th century by Pallava kings. It was rebuilt at the current site about 1.5 km inland later in the 16th century by Vijayanagar kings. Some of the stones of the original temple were used in the reconstruction of the new temple. Inscriptions dating back to the 12th century have been found in the temple. Some inscriptions pertaining to the temple have been found close to the original site too. The current structure was built only about 300 years ago. The towering 120 feet or 37 m rajagopuram over the eastern entrance was built only in 1906. So it is a relatively modern temple complex despite its ancient past. It is a Paadal Petra Sthalam and Thirugnasampanthar rendered the pathikam here. There is a legend that he revived a young girl named Poompavai who had died from a snake bite. She was the daughter of an ardent Siva devotee at Mylapore called Sivanesar. The pathikam sung here is known as the Poompavai Pathikam. In his pathikam Sampanthar describes a temple on the seashore. The temple has a typical Dravidian temple layout. It has many mandapams. One of the mandapams houses the bronze images of the 63 nayanmar which are taken out in procession during the Arupathimoovar Festival in March or April. It is a popular temple and attracts huge crowds on special days. It is now controlled by the HR and CE Department of the Government of Tamil Nadu. It is located in Chennai. We visited in January 2005, July 2010 and May 2023. We stayed in Chennai. Credits: Google Maps

காமாட்சியம்மன் திருக்கோயில் காஞ்சிபுரம் Often referred to as the City of a Thousand Temples, Kanchipuram is an ancient city in India that has has been inhabited continuously since perhaps the Palaeolithic period. It is one of the oldest and holiest cities in India. It has a long tradition as a centre of learning for Hindus, Buddhists and Jains. Although the city has many temples, the Kamakshi Amman temple is considered the most important and is central to many other temples. Here the Goddess has a temple all to herself and her consort Lord Shiva is housed in a separate temple nearby, the Ekambarishvarar. It is of note that many of the Sivan temples in Kanchipuram do not have an Ambal shrine. The Kamakshi Amman is the Ambal shrine for all these temples. It is one of the 51 Shakthi Peedams in India and together with Madurai Meenakshi and Akilandeshvari at Thiruvanaikkaaval, it is one of the three most revered temples dedicated to Goddess Parvati in Tamil Nadu. It is a very important pilgrimage site. It has a strong association with Adi Sankaracharya, the 8th century saint-philosopher who contributed much to the revival of Hinduism in the south and elsewhere in India. He is credited with installing the Sri Chakra Yantram that is worshipped in the sanctum to this day. The Goddess here is found as a seated idol in a Padmasana pose. The antiquity of the temple likely predates the Pallavas who ruled from here since the 6th century to the 9th. They likely rebuilt the temple, although inscriptional evidence is lacking. It has been rebuilt again since and Chola artisans from the 14th century are responsible for the surviving architecture in the inner core. The Vijayanagara and Nayakkan kings of course have left their mark especially with lofty gopurams. Given its long history, the layout of the temple is somewhat complicated with the additions over many eras. At 5 acres in area, it is certainly not huge. The vimanam over the sanctum has a gold plated cap. Together with the nearby Ekambarishvarar and the Kumarakottam Murugan Temple in between, the three temples are built to represent the Somaskanda manifestation of Lord Shiva. The temple is located in Kanchipuram, about 2 hours or 80 km southwest of Chennai. We visited in July 2010. We were based in Chennai. Credits: Google Maps

தர்மேசுவரர் திருக்கோயில், மணிமங்கலம் Manimangalam is a small village just outside Chennai city on the southwest side. It is the site of the great Battle of Manimangalam fought in 642 CE between the Pallava king Narasimhavarman I and the Western Chalukya king Pulakesin II. The Pallavas emerged victorious, but Narasimhavarman’s father Mahendravarman was badly injured. The battle features in the classic historical novel by Kalki Krishnamoorthy- Sivagamyin Sabatham - சிவகாமியின் சபதம். This beautiful temple was built in its current form by the Cholas with later contributions by the Pandyas and Vijayanagar kings. Kulothunga Cholan I is credited with most of the work. The front mandapa is rebuilt by the Vijayanagar kings. It has a lot of well preserved inscriptions. The temple is in a remarkably good state of preservation. The sculptures- especially the koshta idols are beautifully crafted. It lacks a rajagopuram or kodimaram / dwajasthambam. The vimanam is of the Gajaprishta or Thoonganai Maadam style but the sanctum is rectangular and not apsidal. There are an interesting set of statuettes holding swords to their necks commemorating Chola royal bodyguards who were willing to give their lives to protect their kings. There is a window sculpted out of stone. It is situated in peaceful surroundings and the premises are nicely maintained. There is a Rudraksha - உருத்திராக்கம் tree here which bears fruit. The temple is under the control of the ASI - the Archeological Survey of India. As we looked across the green fields, which were battlefields almost 1500 years ago, our gaze fell upon the distant tall residential buildings on the outskirts of Chennai. One day soon that urban sprawl will reach here and engulf this oasis in a concrete jungle. Sad but inevitable. It is located about 43 km or one hour southwest of Chennai. We visited in May 2023. We were based in Chennai. Credits: Google Maps

கரைக்கோயில் மகாபலிபுரம் அல்லது மாமல்லபுரம் Located right on the seashore at Mamallapuram or Mahabalipuram, this small inactive temple is a much visited tourist site very close to Chennai. It is located along the coast about 60 km or 1-2 hours south of Chennai depending on traffic. It is part of the UNESCO World Heritage site at Mahabalipuram. It is looked after by the Archeological Survey of India , the ASI. Built by the Pallava king Rajasimhan or Narasimhavarman II, it was constructed between 700 and 728 CE. There are some elements that may date back to the time of Mamallan or Narasimhavarman I who ruled from 638 to 660 CE. However the main credit for this structure goes to Rajasimhan. This is one of the earliest structural temples that have survived. Mamallapuram was the seaport of the Pallavas. It was a bustling city by the sea and an important metropolis. The temple is a complex of three structures, one large and two smaller. The larger is dedicated to Lord Shiva and the smaller two are dedicated to Lord Shiva and Lord Vishnu. All the usual trademark Pallava sculptures are found here, including lion motifs, yalis, Somaskanda panel and a Mahishasuramardini panel. The entire structure is built of granite and has withstood the test of time and the elements for 1300 years. It has seen many Tsunamis including the one in December 2004. It is believed that there were seven such structures along the coast here and were known as the Seven Pagodas to ancient mariners. They were visible far out to sea, Only one seems to have survived. The 2004 Tsunami has unearthed some structures which could be the ruins of some of the other temples that were lost to the sea. We visited in July 2010. We were based in Chennai. Credits: Google Maps

தேனுபுரீசுவரர் திருக்கோயில், மாடம்பாக்கம், சென்னை This ancient and historically important Sivan temple is situated on the outskirts of Chennai city about 30 km from the centre to the southwest. It has unique features and given its architectural and cultural importance, it is jointly administered by the ASI and the HR and CE. Despite the ASI involvement, it is a very active temple and very popular. It is a monument of national importance and is a protected site. Legends say that the great sage Kapila was once born as a cow and attained redemption by worshiping the Lord here. Dhenu means cow. This temple should not be confused with another famous Dhenupureeswarar temple in the Chola country near Kumbakonam. This Dhenupureeswarar temple at Maadamabakkam built of stone was originally erected by Sundara Cholan or Paranthakan II, the father of Rajarajan, and his able minister Aniruddha Brahmadhirajan in the latter half of the 10th century. It was later expanded by Kulothungan I in the 11th century. The outer mandapam was constructed by the Vijayanagara kings in the 15th century. The temple is known for its exquisite sculptures. There are 10th and 11th century sculptures of Chola vintage in the inner core and later Vijayanagara sculptures in the outer mandapam. There is a revered sculpture of Sarabeshwara, the fierce form that Siva took to quell the anger of Narasimha, that is particularly beautiful. The sanctum and vimanam are of the Gajaprishta or Thoonganai Maadam - தூங்கானை மாடம் type. The entrance is of solid granite and of Chola style but lacks a rajagopuram. It is a Mottai Gopuram- மொட்டைக்கோபுரம். They say that the rajagopuram was never built but that is difficult to believe given the involvement of the Vijayanagara kings who were prolific builders of gopurams. It is more likely that the rajagopuram, often built of stucco and wood, has decayed over time and has been lost. There are inscriptions here from the 13th century belonging to Chola kings Kulothunga III and Rajarajan III, Jatavarman Sundara Pandyan and Vijayanagara kings Kampanna Udayar, Devaraya II and Sadasiva Raya. From a historical and architectural point of view, this is perhaps the most significant ancient Siva temple in the Chennai area. Locals refer to it as the Maadambakkam Sivan temple. It is located in the Chennai suburb of Maadamabakkam about 30 km southwest of the core of the city. We visited in May 2023. We stayed in Chennai. Credits: Google Maps

ஞானபுரீசுவரர் அல்லது இடைச்சுரநாதர் திருக்கோயில், திருவடிசூலம் This ancient Paadal Petra Sivasthalam is located about 70 km southwest of Chennai and about 6 km northeast of Chengalpattu. As it is a Paadal Petra Sthalam it must have existed in some form in the early 7th century. The site could be much older. The Pallava emperor Parameswaravarman I (670-695 CE) is credited with building the first structural temple here. Many dynasties and kings have contributed to the building of this temple. The inner core as it stands today is very much Chola and the 5 tier rajagopuram is Vijayanagara (16th century) or later. There are at least 15 sets of important inscriptions here from Kulothunga I to Vijayanagara kings like Viruppanna, Bukka Raya II and Achyuta Raya. It is administered by the HR and CE Department of the Government of Tamil Nadu and the Thirukkazhukundram Vedagiriswarar Devasthanam. There are many legends about this temple. It is said that when Thirugnasampanthar was on a pilgrimage to visit the Sivan temples of Thondai Nadu, he had rested under a tree here on his way to the ancient Sivasthalam of Thirukkazhukundram nearby. A young cowherd- Idayan or இடையன்- approached him and asked whether the boy saint had heard about the ancient temple here. Sampanthar replied that he had not. So the cowherd led him to this temple and disappeared into the sanctum. It was the Lord himself playing with the young Sampanthar. Thus this place came to be known as Thiruvidaichuram. Sampanthar rendered a pathikam for this temple. வரிவள ரவிரொளி யரவரை தாழ வார்சடை முடிமிசை வளர்மதி சூடிக் கரிவளர் தருகழல் கால்வல னேந்திக் கனலெரி யாடுவர் காடரங் காக விரிவளர் தருபொழில் இளமயில் ஆல வெண்ணிறத் தருவிகள் திண்ணென வீழும் எரிவள ரினமணி புனமணி சாரல் இடைச்சுர மேவிய இவர்வண மென்னே It is also true that this temple is situated between two hills. Idai also mean between in Tamil. Another reason for the temple to be called Thiruvidaichuram. Today the name of the village has evolved to Thiruvadisoolam. It is located about 70 km or 2 hours southwest of Chennai. We visited in May 2023. We were based in Chennai. Credits: Google Maps

முன்குடுமீசுவரர் திருக்கோயில், பொன்விளைந்தக்களத்தூர் This temple was originally a Pallava brick and earth structure built by Nandivarman III. It was rebuilt as a stone temple by the Cholas. Vikrama Cholan and Kulothunga Cholan contributed most to the construction of the temple as it stands today. I could see some Vijayanagar and Nayakkan additions but no modern appendages. There are many inscriptions from Nandivarman III to Rajarajan III to Sundara Pandiyan. The temple is small but has important architectural elements. The Sivan Sannithy has a Gajaprishta Vimanam or a Thoonganai Maadam. But the sanctum is rectangular as opposed to apsidal in a classic Gajaprishtam. It stands today in a quiet and beautiful village amid green paddy fields. There is an interesting legend about why the Lord is called Munkudumeeswarar. Apparently in ancient times, it was customary for the local king to be presented with the offerings to the Lord (the Prashadam) after the morning pooja. One day the king noticed a long strand of hair in the bunch of flowers in the Prashadam. He was annoyed. The priest’s wife or the queen (different versions put the blame on different women) had worn the flowers on their hair which was taboo. The priest wanted to protect the lady involved and lied. He told the king that the Lord had grown hair. The king insisted that he would come the next morning to inspect the idol and if the priest had lied, his head would be chopped off. In answer to the priest’s fervent entreaties, the Lord grew a tuft of hair, a forelock or Munkudumi (முன்குடுமி) and to this day the idol has a forelock. Ponvilaintha Kalathur means the village of the golden harvest. There are also many legends why this village got that name. The story goes that the Lord provided a harvest of gold to a poor farmer to get him out of trouble. There are many versions. The author of the Nalavenba the poet Pukazhenthi was born here. It is also the birthplace of Kootruvanayanar one of the 63 Nayanmar. This is a temple I have been wanting to visit for a very long time. For ten or more years I have read about it, looked at pictures and videos and when we finally reached there, it gave me a feeling of deja vu and goose bumps. This is an ASI administered Sivan temple and hardly anybody visits there. It is an inactive or minimally active temple and a priest conducts a pooja early in the morning and leaves. The temple is locked for the rest of the day. When we went there, the ASI guard opened the gate for us and then ran into the village to fetch the priest, who graciously opened the temple for us, conducted poojas at both sanctums, gave us a tour of the premises and explained the history and legends. We thought that they mistook us for some very important people they were expecting. We felt truly blessed. It is about 8 kms from Chengalpattu and is about 75 km or 2 hours from Chennai. We visited in May 2023. We were based in Chennai. Credits: Google Maps

வாசீசுவரர் திருக்கோயில், திருப்பாசூர் This Paadal Petra Sivasthalam is found about 50 km west of Chennai. Thirugnanasampanthar and Thirunavukkarasar have composed pathikams in praise of the Lord here. Gnanasampanthar sang thus: சிந்தை யிடையார் தலையின் மிசையார் செஞ்சொல்லார் வந்து மாலை வைகும் போழ்தென் மனத்துள்ளார் மைந்தர் மணாள ரென்ன மகிழ்வாரூர்போலும் பைந்தண் மாதவி சோலை சூழ்ந்த பாசூரே Legends say that in the time of Karikal Valavan, the 3rd century CE Chola king, a group of men were clearing a bamboo forest with adzes (an axe like tool) when they struck the Sivalingam that is consecrated here. Vasi - வாசி - means an adze and Paasu- பாசு- is another word for bamboo in Tamil. Thus the Lord here is named Vaseeswarar and the temple became Thirupaasur. It is believed that the Lord fell in love with the Goddess here. That is why she is called Thankathali Amman- தங்காதலி- தன் காதலி. Young couples come here to be blessed with a happy married life. There are 16 sets of inscriptions here and 5 of them are in good condition and are very important. There are inscriptions of Rajarajan, Kulothunga I and Rajendra Chola III. A Pallava temple converted to a granite Chola temple, it retains a lot of the Pallava imprints in the inner core. The columns in the 2nd prakaram are circular in shape, simple in form and are from late Pallava or early Chola times. Very different from the later Chola, Vijayanagar and Nayakkan columns that are much more ornate. Much of the masonry including the 5 tier rajagopuram and the gopuram-shaped vimanam of the Amman Sannithy are from Vijayanagar times in the 16th century. The vimanam over the Sivan Sannithy is of the Gajaprishta or Thoonganai Maadam (தூங்கானை மாடம்) type. It is supposed to be shaped like an elephant’s back. Gaja is elephant and Prishta is back in Sanskrit. This feature was very popular in the Thondai Mandalam temples in the 10th to 12th centuries and were built by the Cholas. Long neglected and in a condition of decay until recently, it has now been renovated and looked nice when we visited. It is under the control of the HR and CE department of the Government of Tamil Nadu. It is located about 1 hour or 50 km west of Chennai. We visited in May 2023. We were based in Chennai. Credits: Google Maps