Temples of Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry: Temple Festivals

Ther or temple chariot at Thirunallar

Ther or temple chariot at Thirunallar

Thoongu Kavadi

Decorated gopram at Kabaleeswarar Mylapore

Ther or temple chariot at Thirunallar

A light set or settu at temple fstival

The temples of Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry are not only structures with beautiful architecture and art, but are also part of a living culture that is hundreds of years old. Nowhere is this more evident than in the many temple festivals that dot the temple calendars across the region. Colorful and full of energy, these unique events are outpourings of devotion to the deity. They bring alive centuries-old traditions in dance, music, drama and various performing arts. In Tamil they are called Utsavam (உற்சவம்) or Thiruvizha (திருவிழா).

These are social, congregational events that bring together the whole community to worship with much fanfare. Loud and energetic, they involve decorating the temple and performing special poojas. Devotional music is played loudly from the temple. Various artists of the performing arts like drummers, singers, nadaswaram artists, dancers etc. perform at the temple. Some rare musical instruments like the Kombu, a horn-like instrument are brought out. Conches are blown. Bells are rung. Temporary stages are set up outside the temple where plays and dramas about the temple history and the epics are enacted. Traditional dance-dramas like Naattukoothu are performed. Storytellers enthrall the public with witty stories about the deities. Debates are held. The Villu Paattu, a traditional musical storytelling with a bow held across the stage is a common feature.

The deities are often taken out in procession. In many temples, the deities come out onto the streets. In some temples the procession is restricted to the inner or outer prakarams while at others the deities go out to the streets and sometimes take a tour around town. In some temples the deity is taken for a dip in the sacred water bodies, the theerthams. Sometimes the deities are carried on the shoulders of devotees on palanquins while at other times they are place on elaborate chariots or "Ther" (தேர்) and pulled along their route. These chariots come in various sizes and shapes, from small vehicles in village temples to massive ones like the 96 foot tall, 250 ton one at the Thiruvarur, which is the largest Ther in Tamil Nadu. Long, massive ropes are used to pull the chariot and to lay a hand on the ropes is believed to bring a lot of blessings. They run on large wooden wheels that are skillfully maneuvered along narrow winding streets backed by generations of experience. Most temples have special metal idols of bronze or panchaloha called the Utsavamoorthy, which are mobile statuettes and used for the processions. Often the deities are placed on their traditional mounts such as the peacock for Lord Murugan, Rishabam for Lord Sivan and Garuda for Lord Vishnu.

The processions, called Ula (உலா) often resemble a parade and feature groups of performers ahead and behind the deity. Groups of singers sing the sacred hymns. and join the parade. Some dance on the streets. People line the streets and set up special altars in front of their homes and businesses to pay homage to the deity on parade. They light lamps at their doors and decorate their courtyards with kolams. The vehicle, quite often a chariot stops at various points along the way for people to get blessed. Fireworks are common.

Some devotees perform special acts of piety and devotion during the festivals. Carrying the Kavadi is common practice, especially in Murugan temples. The Kavadi is a structure made mostly of wood and shaped like a palanquin and carried on a devotee's shoulders. Often heavy, they come in several sizes according to the person's ability. There are some extreme acts like piercing the cheeks and tongue with a sharp, small spear to the Thoongu Kavadi, where the devotee hangs from metal hooks pierced through their back muscles and suspended while taken in procession on a moving vehicle. Some roll on the ground and circumambulate the temple thus. Some temples have fire walking rituals where people walk on hot embers with bare feet. The more extreme forms of devotion are less common these days. Many people fast for various durations. It is called Viradham.

The temple surroundings attract a large number of devotees and others who come to take in the festivities. Vendors of various products set up their stalls and do brisk business. From trinkets to clothes to pots and pans every kind of ware is bought and sold. The temple surroundings take up a fair-like atmosphere, Buskers or street performers of various talents ply their trade. It brings entertainment and a fun element to an otherwise sacred event. In remote villages, it was the primary form of entertainment for young people before the advent of movies and television.

Some temples have multiple festivals in a year. Some have one primary one called the Brahmotsavam held once a year coinciding with an auspicious day in a certain month. Some temples sadly have given up on festivals altogether, mostly due to lack of funds. Some festivals are short and last a few days, while others can go for more than 10 days. Then there is the Kumbabishekam or Kudamulukku festival every 12 years ideally, when the temple is renovated, repainted and a grand festival of consecration is held. Large scaffoldings are built and abhishekams or ritual bathing of the Kalasams on top of the vimanams and gopurams are performed.

Festivals are joyous and entertaining events in a temple's calendar and many people throng to these. It is an experience most people treasure from multiple perspectives. Those who are interested should look at the calendars of individual temples and plan their trips accordingly. The festivals are by and large safe from a crowd control point of view and mishaps like stampedes are extremely rare. Due to the large crowds and lack of infrastructure and staffing at many temples. they can sometimes get messy from a public hygiene perspective with widespread littering etc. Things are certainly getting better and should improve further. While festivals can be extremely positive experiences for some people, for others who want to experience temples in peace and quiet, they might be too disruptive. Those who want to take in the art and architecture at a more leisurely pace might want to avoid festival times.

Some of the most famous temple festivals are the Chithirai festival in Madurai in April/May, the Karthigai festival at Thiruvannamalai in November/December and the Thiruvarur Chariot Festival or Aazhi Ther at Thiruvarur in March/ April among others.,

Festivals are integral to temple culture in Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry. From preserving traditional arts to reaffirming people's belief systems, they are important events in the temple calendar. To attend one could be a great experience for many. With thoughtful planning a festival can be experienced in an enjoyable and meaningful manner.

Sources:

Branfoot, C. (2020). Power, Processions and the Festival Architecture of the Tamil temple. In H. Albery, J.-U. Hartmann, & H. Prabha Ray (Eds.), Power, Presence and Space: South Asian Rituals in Archaeological Context (pp. 164-187). Routledge

Orr, Leslie C Processions in the Medieval South Indian Temple: Sociology, sovereignty and soteriology p. 437-470

Michell, George. Temple Towns of Tamil Nadu , Marg Publications 1993

Mrs. S. Nandhini, & Dr. N. Subha Nanthini. (2023). Festivals of Tamil Nadu: Traditions, Celebrations, and Cultural Significance. Educational Administration: Theory and Practice, 29(4), 4838–4841.